The Ford Barn

jrhaelig · 11-26-2012, 07:13 PM

Reb -

I found that mine had a rust lip built up on the outer edge of the shoe contact area. I Dremeled that down and the drums went on fine.

wspiker · 11-26-2012, 09:28 PM

Hi, I went through the EXACT same thing you are going through ten months ago. I even did as you have and asked for help on the Ford Barn. It turns out it was the cam adjustment on the rear. A friend of mine came over and did what needed to be done and it worked? I just couldn't do it? Also, heads up, the brakes were tightening up after driving a short distance? That turns out to be the master cylinder needed to be adjusted for the 'free play' on the brake pedal. It wasn't allowing the expanded (heated fluid) to return to the master cyclinder. As a result, the brakes were engaging.........

Thanks again to the good folks at the Ford Barn who let me know what was happening and offered their advise................. You'll get it............ :-)

wspiker · 11-26-2012, 09:30 PM

Hi, I went through the EXACT same thing you are going through ten months ago. I even did as you have and asked for help on the Ford Barn. It turns out it was the cam adjustment on the rear. A friend of mine came over and did what needed to be done and it worked? I just couldn't do it? Also, heads up, the brakes were tightening up after driving a short distance? That turns out to be the master cylinder needed to be adjusted for the 'free play' on the brake pedal. It wasn't allowing the expanded (heated fluid) to return to the master cyclinder. As a result, the brakes were engaging.........

Thanks again to the good folks at the Ford Barn who let me know what was happening and offered their advise................. You'll get it............ :-)

Bassman/NZ · 11-26-2012, 10:22 PM

Considering the state of your drums, I would follow Flathead Ted's advice. As he says, he's done a LOT of brake jobs.

47Merc · 11-26-2012, 10:44 PM

You should also remember that it is best to use a torque wrench when you tighten up the wheel nuts on a 39 with the wide 5 wheel rims.

The reason for this is the wheel studs are on the outer edge of the drum and not like normal hubs where the studs pull on the axles.

If the tension on the wheel nuts is not uniform it can (and will) pull the drum out of round. This can be felt through the brake pedal pulsating like a warped disc does and is particularly noticable on the fronts.

woodypecker · 11-27-2012, 12:10 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Thanks for all of the good information again I have learned a lot by lurking and listening

FRANK PKNY · 11-27-2012, 01:05 PM

Year's ago without much money, I would just get the shoes to fit when assembling and keep adjusting till they wore in . It takes about 1000 miles per adjustment, two adjustment most of the time works fine. Pedel may be a bit soft at first, till the lining wears in. Not rocket science the 39 adjustments are somewhat diffacult to do because the lineings do not float like the later style. I talked to a guy about two years ago that was trying to develop a conversion to get the shoes to float, but have not heard if he was successful. I put a float kit in my 35 (mechanical brakes) and they work great, no need to to convert to hydraulic.

Lowsquire · 11-27-2012, 05:53 PM

I had the same problem. file the slot in the park brake link. it doesnt need much.
That part can actually be what is keeping the drums apart rather than the adjusters, and as long as you can adjust it back out with cable adjustment, you havent upset anything at all, I know its counter intuitive to change that clearance, but it is the answer. trust me.

George/Maine · 11-27-2012, 06:29 PM

This problem comes here often with new shoes.
The way it was done without a arching machine.
Cammfer the new lining back about 1/2, angle and depth 1/8 on ends.
At least near "first rivet".
If you bring the shoes out even 3-9 oclock 1/8 less then drum.
Most likly they will hit on top thats what the cammmfer is for,
do both end.
The pistons must be all the way in.
The high lining stops the piston from going back in.
The angle can be done with file or bench grinder thats what i use.

Rebel Sympathy · 11-29-2012, 08:36 AM

Thanks, boys. Your generous and helpful advice is appreciated.......

Mike

barnfind08 · 11-29-2012, 11:27 AM

You could eliminate the problem by using genuine ford lining. already chamfered and the correct thickness. have sold many sets. for 4 linings(2 short and 2 long 32.00 plus postage.

11-26-2012, 07:13 PM	#21
jrhaelig Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Bridgewater, New Jersey Posts: 264	Re: 1939 Rear Brakes - I'm Going Nutz-O Reb - I found that mine had a rust lip built up on the outer edge of the shoe contact area. I Dremeled that down and the drums went on fine. __________________ John Haelig Bridgewater, NJ 1939 Ford Pickup 1963 Lincoln Continental 1939 Buick

11-26-2012, 09:28 PM	#22
wspiker Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 190	Re: 1939 Rear Brakes - I'm Going Nutz-O Hi, I went through the EXACT same thing you are going through ten months ago. I even did as you have and asked for help on the Ford Barn. It turns out it was the cam adjustment on the rear. A friend of mine came over and did what needed to be done and it worked? I just couldn't do it? Also, heads up, the brakes were tightening up after driving a short distance? That turns out to be the master cylinder needed to be adjusted for the 'free play' on the brake pedal. It wasn't allowing the expanded (heated fluid) to return to the master cyclinder. As a result, the brakes were engaging......... Thanks again to the good folks at the Ford Barn who let me know what was happening and offered their advise................. You'll get it............ :-)

11-26-2012, 09:30 PM	#23
wspiker Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 190	Re: 1939 Rear Brakes - I'm Going Nutz-O Hi, I went through the EXACT same thing you are going through ten months ago. I even did as you have and asked for help on the Ford Barn. It turns out it was the cam adjustment on the rear. A friend of mine came over and did what needed to be done and it worked? I just couldn't do it? Also, heads up, the brakes were tightening up after driving a short distance? That turns out to be the master cylinder needed to be adjusted for the 'free play' on the brake pedal. It wasn't allowing the expanded (heated fluid) to return to the master cyclinder. As a result, the brakes were engaging......... Thanks again to the good folks at the Ford Barn who let me know what was happening and offered their advise................. You'll get it............ :-)

11-26-2012, 10:22 PM	#24
Bassman/NZ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Napier, New Zealand Posts: 2,001	Re: 1939 Rear Brakes - I'm Going Nutz-O Considering the state of your drums, I would follow Flathead Ted's advice. As he says, he's done a LOT of brake jobs.

11-26-2012, 10:44 PM	#25
47Merc Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Australia Posts: 362	Re: 1939 Rear Brakes - I'm Going Nutz-O You should also remember that it is best to use a torque wrench when you tighten up the wheel nuts on a 39 with the wide 5 wheel rims. The reason for this is the wheel studs are on the outer edge of the drum and not like normal hubs where the studs pull on the axles. If the tension on the wheel nuts is not uniform it can (and will) pull the drum out of round. This can be felt through the brake pedal pulsating like a warped disc does and is particularly noticable on the fronts.

11-27-2012, 12:10 PM	#26
woodypecker Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Clarkston, Michigan Posts: 239	Re: 1939 Rear Brakes - I'm Going Nutz-O Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Thanks for all of the good information again I have learned a lot by lurking and listening

11-27-2012, 01:05 PM	#27
FRANK PKNY Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: POUGHKEEPSIE NY 12601 Posts: 1,016	Re: 1939 Rear Brakes - I'm Going Nutz-O Year's ago without much money, I would just get the shoes to fit when assembling and keep adjusting till they wore in . It takes about 1000 miles per adjustment, two adjustment most of the time works fine. Pedel may be a bit soft at first, till the lining wears in. Not rocket science the 39 adjustments are somewhat diffacult to do because the lineings do not float like the later style. I talked to a guy about two years ago that was trying to develop a conversion to get the shoes to float, but have not heard if he was successful. I put a float kit in my 35 (mechanical brakes) and they work great, no need to to convert to hydraulic. __________________ [email protected]

11-27-2012, 05:53 PM	#28
Lowsquire Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Austin ,Texas Posts: 85	Re: 1939 Rear Brakes - I'm Going Nutz-O I had the same problem. file the slot in the park brake link. it doesnt need much. That part can actually be what is keeping the drums apart rather than the adjusters, and as long as you can adjust it back out with cable adjustment, you havent upset anything at all, I know its counter intuitive to change that clearance, but it is the answer. trust me.

11-27-2012, 06:29 PM	#29
George/Maine Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mid coast Maine Posts: 1,878	Re: 1939 Rear Brakes - I'm Going Nutz-O This problem comes here often with new shoes. The way it was done without a arching machine. Cammfer the new lining back about 1/2, angle and depth 1/8 on ends. At least near "first rivet". If you bring the shoes out even 3-9 oclock 1/8 less then drum. Most likly they will hit on top thats what the cammmfer is for, do both end. The pistons must be all the way in. The high lining stops the piston from going back in. The angle can be done with file or bench grinder thats what i use.

11-29-2012, 08:36 AM	#30
Rebel Sympathy Senior Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: North Alabama Posts: 159	Re: 1939 Rear Brakes - I'm Going Nutz-O Thanks, boys. Your generous and helpful advice is appreciated....... Mike __________________ **"There is no 'normal life'; there's just life." - Doc Holliday from the film Tombstone**

11-29-2012, 11:27 AM	#31
barnfind08 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 893	Re: 1939 Rear Brakes - I'm Going Nutz-O You could eliminate the problem by using genuine ford lining. already chamfered and the correct thickness. have sold many sets. for 4 linings(2 short and 2 long 32.00 plus postage.