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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 48
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Hate to start WWIII, but is PennGrade SAE 40 high zinc and phosphorus used by Aers very much?
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 5,457
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Not by me. 10-30 or 10-40 depending on what time of year. Zinc is not needed in a Model A engine.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Mt. Pleasant, SC
Posts: 324
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My engine rebuilder recommended Valvoline VR-1 high zinc racing oil, 10W-30. Given what I spent on the rebuild, I follow his recommendations.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,186
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Denver Area
Posts: 41
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The guys at the shop that rebuilt my engine specifically suggested higher zinc level oil. I use the Lucas "Hot Rod & Classic Oil". Good price and no concern about the high pressure sliding surfaces on tappets and gears. Maybe the Model A does not have high pressures on the tappets? I do not know but I wonder how good the cam profiles were 90 years ago. Today's modern oils actually limit the zinc to very low levels and today's engines are made for that.
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 4,579
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 4,421
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Fairfield, Virginia
Posts: 577
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use motor oil
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#9 |
Senior Member
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Ted,
Did you mean “used” motor oil, like in the old days! David Serrano |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 1,019
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My father ran "drain oil" in his coupe..he would buy it for a penny a quart, oil drained out of the cars the local gas station serviced..
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 4,579
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Most stations used a service where the old oil was re-refined and re-sold as reclaimed oil. I doubt he ran dirty oil, there would be no good doing so.
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 1,019
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Thats nice,you doubt a story told to me by my father..take a minute,think about that..
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 4,579
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#14 |
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,186
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,186
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They were not changing oil, they were adding a quart to stop the engine from seizing up. Times were tough, think about it !
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,096
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Many moons ago when I pumped gasoline, the station owner had a 275 gallon oil tank in a back room. It contained the residual oil that dripped from every can of oil used at the station. The oil from that tank was sold as "bottle oil" at a lower price than the canned oil. This practice was common place back in the 1950s and 1960s. In my garage these days, I continue this practice of draining residual oil from containers.
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#17 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 26
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There is a product called oil saver:
Rune from Norway ![]() Sent fra min S52 via Tapatalk |
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#18 |
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: New York
Posts: 905
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#19 |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,002
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Back, before they put detergents in the oil, a lot of people put used oil aside and let it sit for a few weeks. All or most of the contaminants would settle out and "clean" oil could be scooped out for re-use.
Bindar Dundat
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Play it again Sam. |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 5,457
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The guy I worked with does somewhat the same thing. He drains the oil from each container into his oil cans. When adding fresh oil to an engine, I let each one drain for a while before adding the next one.
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