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01-09-2020, 01:38 AM | #1 |
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torque for master cylinder bolt
What is the amount of torque used on the bolt on the back to the '48 master cylinder? This is the one that holds the brake lines on.
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01-09-2020, 05:49 AM | #2 |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
Have never seen a torque value for it.
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01-09-2020, 06:09 AM | #3 |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
I believe he's talking about the 1/2" threaded banjo bolt that holds the brass distribution block on the back of the cylinder. I don't know the torque. I just use a suitable sized spanner (wrench) and make sure it is tight.
Sometimes you need to use judgement and develop a feel. Mart. |
01-09-2020, 09:36 AM | #4 |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
if your using dot 5 use new brass washers & tighten as tight as a craps ass
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01-09-2020, 10:21 AM | #5 |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
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01-09-2020, 10:28 AM | #6 |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
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01-09-2020, 10:36 AM | #7 |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
If copper washers are new, they should be annealed soft. If they are old, they need to be annealed. It's best to use new but you can heat them up red hot and quench them in water to anneal them. It doesn't take much torque to get a seal. Hollow banjo bolts break easily so snug them good and see if they leak. Tighten until they don't leak within good reason. That's about the best I can say.
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01-10-2020, 08:47 AM | #8 |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
The other thing that is easy to break is the brass fitting when screwing in the brake light switch. I had a hell of a time sealing the one on my 49. Never thought to anneal them first.
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01-11-2020, 02:01 AM | #9 |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
Rotorwrench has it down. Aircraft spark plugs use copper washers, and we kept a supply of annealed ones for each job. Trainees got to do it. Newc
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01-11-2020, 07:13 AM | #10 |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
For annealing copper, rub some hand soap on the washer. Heat it up and when the soap blackens or turns to soot, you have the right temperature. Copper can either be air on water/oil quenched and with keep the anneal, softness, either way. Water quench will remove the black oxide.
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01-11-2020, 09:40 PM | #11 | |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
Quote:
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01-12-2020, 07:58 AM | #12 |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
Thanks to everyone for the comments. I have broken this bolt in the pass on another project, real pain in the butt.
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01-12-2020, 09:36 AM | #13 |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
Well, the torque is a bit less than what you used last time then.
Sorry couldn't resist. Mart. |
01-18-2020, 03:44 PM | #14 |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
Here's a link to how to anneal copper...
https://www.wikihow.com/Anneal-Copper
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01-18-2020, 06:57 PM | #15 |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
Great observation and funny!
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07-07-2021, 05:26 PM | #16 |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
So are you saying new copper washers from the parts store such as from Dorman that are described for brake lines need annealing? I thought they would be ready to use since they were described for brake lines?
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07-07-2021, 06:30 PM | #17 |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
Only used washers should be annealed in order to re-use.
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07-08-2021, 08:43 PM | #18 |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
Depends. I get my washers at NAPA and they are hard as rock. Not sure if they are Dorman or what.
Got to watch out too, our chinese brothers are putting out copper-coated washers, not clear what's underneath.
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07-08-2021, 11:19 PM | #19 |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
The idea is to soften the copper so it will seal, new or used, they need to be soft.
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08-04-2021, 03:19 PM | #20 |
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Re: torque for master cylinder bolt
I don’t have an acetylene torch. Can it be done with a small propane torch like plumbers use to solder copper pipes?
Now I have seen posts that say you don’t need to anneal new washers. The ones I have used show the rings pressed into the copper gasket from the brass block after tightening, but it still leaks. Also, there are no rings on the master cylinder body where the banjo bolt threads in so no rings will be crushed into the copper gasket on the M/C body side. I assume this is normal? So far, I can’t tell if it is leaking on the M/C side or the brass block side of the copper gasket. Any other ideas to eliminate these leaks? I’ve been fighting this for weeks now. |
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