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04-27-2018, 09:07 AM | #21 |
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Re: Overheating Front Hubs
Most IMPORTANT of all: USE ONLY A QUALITY, NAME BRAND, HIGH TEMP DISC BRAKE GREASE!!!!!----ALL greases are NOT the same, there's some CHEAP, INFERIOR Crap, out there!!!
Slippery Bill W.
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04-27-2018, 09:18 AM | #22 | |
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Re: Overheating Front Hubs
Quote:
What size wheels? John |
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04-27-2018, 10:47 AM | #23 |
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Re: Overheating Front Hubs
I have been using the fibrous grease that I have for years,never had a problem,I do not know if the modern grease is any better.
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04-27-2018, 12:11 PM | #24 | |
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Re: Overheating Front Hubs
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04-27-2018, 05:57 PM | #25 | |
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Re: Overheating Front Hubs
Quote:
Bill Shotgun
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04-27-2018, 06:11 PM | #26 |
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Re: Overheating Front Hubs
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04-27-2018, 06:33 PM | #27 |
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Re: Overheating Front Hubs
31 inch all terrain tyre. 15 inch wheel. I'm trying to avoid a two day trip to the factory to get an alignment.
What I thought was a good brand of grease may not be. It is an early version trailer from this company. http://www.tracktrailer.com.au/compa...c2-suspension/ My sister has one the same and has never had a problem. |
04-28-2018, 09:45 AM | #28 | |
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Re: Overheating Front Hubs
Quote:
Exactly how I do it, and if you put a bread bag on each hand, you can pack them without getting grease on your hands. I've packed bearings by hand since high school, when a good older mechanic showed me the correct way to pack them. I can hand pack the bearing in less time than it takes to find my bearing packer, that I've never used. I use Mystik JT-6 High Temp red grease, and only tighten the nut enough to just remove the free play. As mentioned, I'd loosen half a flat, rather than go tighter to install the cotter pin. |
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04-28-2018, 10:16 AM | #29 |
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Re: Overheating Front Hubs
When you think about it, 5Ft Lbs isn't VERY MUCH. If in doubt, use an Inch Lb wrench @ 60" Lbs. This has worked well for me, for a LOTS of YEARS!
TOO BAD we get SO Old, SO QUICK! Bill W.
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04-28-2018, 11:09 AM | #30 |
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Re: Overheating Front Hubs
fit the cup into the cone,its should fit square,and the rollers should have full width contact on the cone.Then put a little pressure on the cone and turn it in the cup...all the rollers should turn. Mis matched bearings will 'heel or toe' on the roller,they wont have full contact,causing the premature failure your seeing.
Lube by hand (method above) or packer. Assembled bearings completely.Tighten bearing nut till snug (you cant hurt them,get it tight) then turn the wheel.This 'seats' the bearing,insuring a true reading.CAREFULLY back off the nut,the exact point where the nut breaks free is zero preload. On front wheel bearings I prefer one nut flat off of zero preload. Depending upon application tapered roller bearings can be set with a high amount of preload.Wheel bearings on a car is not one of them,they need to be set zero load with heat expansion room,the reason for the 'one flat' back off.If you cant catch the cotter at one flat,back off till you do. |
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