The Ford Barn

Curtis in MA · 10-11-2017, 05:35 PM

My brake pedal doesn’t fully retract and the brake lights stay on. If I don’t notice the ammeter the battery dies. I have resorted to opening the hood and pulling the fuse every time I stop.
So I rewired the system tonight by running the wire from the ammeter to go to the key and then from the key to the terminal box. The two wires that did go to the key I connected together.
This worked great until the switch is turned off. Because the alternator is now in line with the coil/points the engine still runs a little. Since with the low rpm’s the alternator is not producing much power it hasn’t run long.
I like having all the accessories on the key and if I can solve this I might buy a new switch with an accessory terminal.
If I put a switch in only for the brake lights I might forget to turn it on when I start.
I know I should fix the real problem but I haven’t found it yet.
Any ideas?

1931 flamingo · 10-11-2017, 05:37 PM

The light stays on because the brake pedal doesn't fully retract.
Paul in CT

Patrick L. · 10-11-2017, 05:42 PM

I happen to agree with fixing the real problem as you're probably driving around with the brake lights on.
The problem is probably just a cross shaft/ brake rod/ anti-rattler spring issue.

Jacksonlll · 10-11-2017, 06:16 PM

It would be a lot easier to fix the pedal travel and switch.

Chris Haynes · 10-11-2017, 06:25 PM

Get the brake pedal return spring kit.
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/br...-return-spring

Curtis in MA · 10-11-2017, 06:27 PM

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I have a helper spring on the pedal and when driving the pedal returns fully.

cpf240 · 10-11-2017, 07:14 PM

Perhaps add a battery disconnect switch to prevent battery drains.

Of course, the actual problem should be fixed too... :-)

Bill G · 10-11-2017, 07:18 PM

Even with the pedal fully retracting, the linkage between the switch and the pedal linkage may be hanging up or the switch may just be defective or needs an adjustment. Still easier to fix the switch or linkage and have them work correctly than the rewiring you are suggesting. Just saying.

Also, if you don't already have a battery cut-off switch that turns off the battery entirely which is the equivalent of pulling the fuse, you should get one. It is recommended.

I know one person who pulls the fuse out every time he shuts off the car just for the sake of making sure everything is off. He does not have a cut-off switch.

larrys40 · 10-11-2017, 08:05 PM

I agree with the guys above but let's cover your pedal issue thoroughly. The return of the pedal is all about the brake system at each wheel functioning properly with good return springs.

I recommend the Snyder springs as they are better at tension than most of the others.
The "wire type" return springs on the rods are better than the flat type. Make sure they are install correctly for return.
Put a little oil and grease at your Clevis pins will help make sure all pivots well for return. Make sure your cross shaft isn't rubbing on the torque tube which if it is would indicate sagging rear engine mounts.

Also sometime a little oil and grease in the end of the stop light switch helps with them. The 28-29 style that uses the link between the pedal and the switch may also need adjusting as the switch is slotted . The 30/31 is not adjustable

Hopefully after some checks and fixes you will have a pedal and switch functioning much better
Larry

slammin · 10-11-2017, 08:47 PM

The OP didn't mention the year of his A. 28 and 29 use a switch bolted to the side of the transmission tower. Both holes are elongated so there is some adjustment. I'm not familiar with the 30/31 switch, except that it mounts differently, but I would think that it should be adjustable as well.

Sunnybrook Farm · 10-12-2017, 08:38 AM

Until you get the brake system working properly, you could connect a wire with the wire coming off of the brake light switch and mount a bulb somewhere near the dash where it will indicate if your brake light is on. I had one like that years ago and used to pull the pedal up with my toe, it is probably best to just lubricate the system and replace bushings where needed as lots of slop can develop over the years.

jhowes · 10-12-2017, 09:13 AM

John Reagan at FUN projects has a different opinion on the cut off switch and I wish he would chime in here. After hearing his technical analysis of the switch in the system I took mine out. It has to do with OHMS law. If the starter takes 150 amps to turn over the car , then at six volts the restenance can only be .04 ohms. Since the contacts are not gold or silver in the switch, how long will it take to exceed the .04 ohms and reduce power (current) to the starter? Jack

10-11-2017, 05:35 PM	#1
Curtis in MA Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Leicester, MA Posts: 296	Wiring problem My brake pedal doesn’t fully retract and the brake lights stay on. If I don’t notice the ammeter the battery dies. I have resorted to opening the hood and pulling the fuse every time I stop. So I rewired the system tonight by running the wire from the ammeter to go to the key and then from the key to the terminal box. The two wires that did go to the key I connected together. This worked great until the switch is turned off. Because the alternator is now in line with the coil/points the engine still runs a little. Since with the low rpm’s the alternator is not producing much power it hasn’t run long. I like having all the accessories on the key and if I can solve this I might buy a new switch with an accessory terminal. If I put a switch in only for the brake lights I might forget to turn it on when I start. I know I should fix the real problem but I haven’t found it yet. Any ideas?

10-11-2017, 05:37 PM	#2
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: Wiring problem The light stays on because the brake pedal doesn't fully retract. Paul in CT

10-11-2017, 05:42 PM	#3
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: Wiring problem I happen to agree with fixing the real problem as you're probably driving around with the brake lights on. The problem is probably just a cross shaft/ brake rod/ anti-rattler spring issue.

10-11-2017, 06:16 PM	#4
Jacksonlll Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Michigan-- Member of Oakleaf of MARC Posts: 1,686	Re: Wiring problem It would be a lot easier to fix the pedal travel and switch.

10-11-2017, 06:25 PM	#5
Chris Haynes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Camarillo, CA and Pine Grove, CA Posts: 2,832	Re: Wiring problem Get the brake pedal return spring kit. http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/br...-return-spring __________________ 1921 Runabout 1930 Tudor Early 1930 AA Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?

10-11-2017, 06:27 PM	#6
Curtis in MA Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Leicester, MA Posts: 296	Re: Wiring problem Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I have a helper spring on the pedal and when driving the pedal returns fully.

10-11-2017, 07:14 PM	#7
cpf240 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Northern Idaho Posts: 282	Re: Wiring problem Perhaps add a battery disconnect switch to prevent battery drains. Of course, the actual problem should be fixed too... :-)

10-11-2017, 07:18 PM	#8
Bill G Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 1,045	Re: Wiring problem Even with the pedal fully retracting, the linkage between the switch and the pedal linkage may be hanging up or the switch may just be defective or needs an adjustment. Still easier to fix the switch or linkage and have them work correctly than the rewiring you are suggesting. Just saying. Also, if you don't already have a battery cut-off switch that turns off the battery entirely which is the equivalent of pulling the fuse, you should get one. It is recommended. I know one person who pulls the fuse out every time he shuts off the car just for the sake of making sure everything is off. He does not have a cut-off switch.

10-11-2017, 08:05 PM	#9
larrys40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St Charles , Missouri Posts: 1,998	Re: Wiring problem I agree with the guys above but let's cover your pedal issue thoroughly. The return of the pedal is all about the brake system at each wheel functioning properly with good return springs. I recommend the Snyder springs as they are better at tension than most of the others. The "wire type" return springs on the rods are better than the flat type. Make sure they are install correctly for return. Put a little oil and grease at your Clevis pins will help make sure all pivots well for return. Make sure your cross shaft isn't rubbing on the torque tube which if it is would indicate sagging rear engine mounts. Also sometime a little oil and grease in the end of the stop light switch helps with them. The 28-29 style that uses the link between the pedal and the switch may also need adjusting as the switch is slotted . The 30/31 is not adjustable Hopefully after some checks and fixes you will have a pedal and switch functioning much better Larry

10-11-2017, 08:47 PM	#10
slammin Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Fruita, CO Posts: 281	Re: Wiring problem The OP didn't mention the year of his A. 28 and 29 use a switch bolted to the side of the transmission tower. Both holes are elongated so there is some adjustment. I'm not familiar with the 30/31 switch, except that it mounts differently, but I would think that it should be adjustable as well.

10-12-2017, 08:38 AM	#11
Sunnybrook Farm Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Virginia Posts: 409	Re: Wiring problem Until you get the brake system working properly, you could connect a wire with the wire coming off of the brake light switch and mount a bulb somewhere near the dash where it will indicate if your brake light is on. I had one like that years ago and used to pull the pedal up with my toe, it is probably best to just lubricate the system and replace bushings where needed as lots of slop can develop over the years.

10-12-2017, 09:13 AM	#12
jhowes Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: upstate NY near Mass border Posts: 789	Re: Wiring problem John Reagan at FUN projects has a different opinion on the cut off switch and I wish he would chime in here. After hearing his technical analysis of the switch in the system I took mine out. It has to do with OHMS law. If the starter takes 150 amps to turn over the car , then at six volts the restenance can only be .04 ohms. Since the contacts are not gold or silver in the switch, how long will it take to exceed the .04 ohms and reduce power (current) to the starter? Jack