Rebuilding my Flathead random questions

[38 coupe]

Do you have a used head gasket? If yes, assemble the head with the used head gasket and proceed to measure the piston to head and piston to valve clearance with either the foil ball or clay method.

[busmania]

No used gasket but I do have two sets of gaskets. one copper and one that looks like regular metal. I think I got the metal ones with some other parts I bought. I will use those on my first measure but I worry they will be different thickness than what I ultimately use.

[tubman]

If you don't have a caliper for measuring stuff like this; get one.

[busmania]

I have a caliper…It’s just difficult to get in between an
Engine block and installed head to measure the squished thickness…

Anyway, with my caliper I did the foil ball test today. I tested all valves and all pistons in 4 areas. Below are the general results so I think I am good. I only torqued the heads (aluminum) to 25 for the test. That ok? Didn’t want to squish the gasket too much.

The valves all measured out too .175 to .205. That seems sufficient for valves right?

All of the pistons had .055 to .065 for clearance. Should also be good right? They are close and my only hesitation is that I only torqued to 25 pounds.

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[38 coupe]

I would assemble that engine with confidence you have sufficient clearance.

[Bored&Stroked]

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You have plenty of clearance. Assemble away . . .

[busmania]

Well, it’s almost ready. Just wanted to post a photo and again say thank you to all of you in this thread! Probably a few months before I fire it but I have motivation to get the car ready. Soon I’ll start a thread on wiring ot temporarily just to start it once I get it in the car. Or maybe I’ll just start installing my electrical then fire it up proper.

Anyway, thanks again!


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[38 coupe]

Enlarged picture from previous post

[busmania]

I’m back! Which oil relief spring (I think that’s what these are called) is better to use? I have two. Long or short? See photo. Please and thank you.

I’ve also included a photo of where I’m at with reassembly. The entire top end is just locked, still waiting on some head studs but I installed it with the transmission. Good times!


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[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by busmania

I’m back! Which oil relief spring (I think that’s what these are called) is better to use? I have two. Long or short? See photo. Please and thank you.

I’ve also included a photo of where I’m at with reassembly. The entire top end is just locked, still waiting on some head studs but I installed it with the transmission. Good times!

[marko39]

i would use the short one as it appears that the longer one was stretched.

[Bored&Stroked]

What oil pump do you have? If you're running the 49-53 pump (which has its own pressure relief system), then run the longer spring.

[busmania]

Yes. Ended up goi g with later pump.

So that I understand what this piece does…I’m a visual person. Does this spring open and close oil somewhere as needed? Not sure if that makes sense but maybe I need to go study the Flathead oiling system…

And speaking of oiling. The filter on top of the head I’m debating if I use it or not. I know one tube comes out from the back by oil pressure sender to the bottom of the canister. but where does the return line go into the block? I’m seeing no holes or anywhere that a return line would go back in (except maybe on the intake manifold?) thanks!

[Bored&Stroked]

This is a pressure relief valve. Up until 1949, there were no relief valves in the oil-pumps, so the one in the front of the block was used. Now that you have the later pump - you actually have 2 relief valves. Stretching the spring on the front one allows the rear one to "be the boss".

Oil Filter: The "Fram" type system is a "drip feed" or bypass type system. The input line comes from the back of the block and it goes through a brass fitting with a .060 orifice to control the volume into the filter itself. This is NOT a full-flow system, so the exit does NOT go back to the pressure galley in the block, but to the oil-sump/pan itself. There were a variety of ways that the output oil was plumbed:


Most Common:
1) On the side of the cast dip-stick boss in the pan - with a 1/8" NPT port
2) On the side of the oil-pan - with a steel "bulkhead" type fitting that had an 1/8" NPT port

Other places include special "hollow fittings" on the fuel-pump stand as well as the timing cover, etc..

The most important point is that as a drip-feed system, the oil must return to the pan - regardless of the means used to get it there.

With aluminum heads, you'll need 3 special extra-long studs to mount the filter base. I also make three aluminum spacers to get the mounting surface above the aluminum head fins. Don't do the "crude hack" I've seen and grind the fins off - get the right length studs and make the about 1" spacers.

[Zeke3]

Originally Posted by busmania

I know one tube comes out from the back by oil pressure sender to the bottom of the canister.

B&S covered where the bypass oil filter returns go on a Ford Flathead real well. I just wanted to make sure we are clear about where the oil supply line goes from the rear of the engine by the oil pressure sender to through the 0.060” orifice to the port on the side of the filter housing. The bottom port on the filter canister is for the oil return line.

[Ol' Ron]

I like to see .050 above the valves and pistons. This is where the torque cimes in. Higher compression. It's dificult the get in a small dosplacement engine, The aluminum heads get this by adding mateial in the transfer area. This reduces flow at high RPm's but works well in a street engine that doesn't see much time over 3K. Not sure if this has been rought up, but I rotate the rear can bearing to prevet the fuel pump push rod from use. I then put a plug in the valley part of the pushrod hole to prevent pile pressure loss. I never use the stock fuel pump, just another part of the old engine that won't give you problems. Best fuel pump is inthe tank one. I also never use stromburd or ford hHolley carbs, onlu Chevy 2pG, they never fail.
??
GRAMPS

[busmania]

Thanks y’all. I’ll look deeper into the oil return. There is a small female fitting on the oil pan (last photo). Is this where the return lines go?

Also, this breather tube appears to be 1/4” too long for the intake (edmunds) to rest down flat. Ok to trim it I assume? Harm in not using this or trimming too much? I am, for now, using the stock fuel pump.

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[40ford]

Originally Posted by barnfind08

I called and left a message for this gentleman. Have both parts nos Ford

Barnfind I sent you a PM

[Bored&Stroked]

I believe you attempted to put the oil-baffle in BEFORE you bolted on the intake. You bolt the intake down, THEN you slide the baffle in. It should rest in a receiver area on the fuel-pump flange surface (the groove is in the top!).

Return Line: Yes, that is where it goes on your setup.

[busmania]

Thank you!