Putting Drums back on

[supereal]

If you filled the hub with grease,it will prevent seating. The photo shows lots of grease on the end of the axle housing. To properly pack the roller bearing, grease needs to be forced around the rollers until they are coated, but the hub shouldn't be packed, too .Whether the brakes are on backwards depends on which direction the car is headed when the picture was taken. As the parking brake cable has to point forward it is a good way to know if the assembly is correct.

[George/Maine]

Looking at MACS catalog there are 2 drums one with 3 1/4 hole and 4" hole.
In pic 1 2 3 were the bolt head are seen that step in hub what ever that measures that's the drum you need.

What has to be done it remove the studs and mount the drum to other side making it stick out father. Note you will need longer studs. OR the 4" drum is deeper and slip on like the one you have.

[Fordors]

It was always my understanding that the 3 1/4" hole drums were earlier and the 4" were for '46-'48 hubs. The later drums mount to the inside of the hub and the earlier hydraulic drums mount on the outside of the hub. I could be mistaken about that 1946 date, the inside mounting might have started before that. Early hubs are not flat on the inside, there is a raised, spot-faced boss where the studs seat.

[1931 flamingo]

I haven't had a rear end apart in probably 45 years, but something about the axle key doesn't look right or am I "wrong"?

Paul in CT

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by George/Maine

If you have the same drums you took off. My guess your shoes are to wide wrong.
Remove them a try drum then.

Originally Posted by George/Maine

I don't have something to go by but a book.
But is the parking brake lever to go on the back side.
Looks like on outside.
The key looks ok.
"Parking brake is on backwards".

Originally Posted by George/Maine

Now you know what the problem is ,as posted yesterday #13
Parking brake lever is on out side.
So that means you will remove both sides and switch levers.

Originally Posted by George/Maine

Look again at JM35 sedan info lever is on "inside" as it should be.
You will have to switch from side to side as there is a left and right lever.

Originally Posted by George/Maine

If it were correct with 800 posts the drum would go on.
Its wrong.

Right Rear Brake
XRay view From backing plate side.

Originally Posted by George/Maine

It does look like the lever is on the out side my mistake.
When you are taking the other side hub off,
do you have a puller like the one I bought on epay # 160481319553
Put the tire back on lower and turn puller nut.
The key way with the angle goes out to end ,and up for drum to lineup better.
Looks like newer remove able drums. Macs has new drums.

Originally Posted by George/Maine

Looking at MACS catalog there are 2 drums one with 3 1/4 hole and 4" hole.
In pic 1 2 3 were the bolt head are seen that step in hub what ever that measures that's the drum you need.

What has to be done it remove the studs and mount the drum to other side making it stick out father. Note you will need longer studs. OR the 4" drum is deeper and slip on like the one you have.

George/Maine........Please! I'm sure you mean well, but reply after reply, and mistake after mistake, along with your incomplete and confusing sentence structure.....you're doing nothing POSITIVE to help sort-out Jason's mess. NO info is far better than BAD or confusing info. DD

[George/Maine]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Ha fly boy dust some crops
I nailed it this time.
No answer from you just smart axx remarks.

[Binx]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Your own Low Info Affliction is doing nothing but adding to the confusion. The couple of guys that KNOW what they're talking about will help Jason thru this just fine. DD

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

George/Maine........Please! I'm sure you mean well, but reply after reply, and mistake after mistake, along with your incomplete and confusing sentence structure.....you're doing nothing POSITIVE to help sort-out Jason's mess. NO info is far better than BAD or confusing info. DD

V8COOPMAN, sit back and watch and see how it turns out. If you have nothing constructive to offer to fix this problem then STFU!


Lonnie

[George/Maine]

You read it first here.
If the flange on hub was 3/4" and the drum was 1/4"
My math tells me it pushes the drum out 1 inch.

[Mart]

Can we restrict ourselves to constructive advice and restrain from criticising?

Please?

[tiger.1000]

Seems like American Civil War No 2 is warming up and ready to go ? Good manners costs nothing.....

[39topless]

Originally Posted by Mart

Can we restrict ourselves to constructive advice and restrain from criticising?

Please?

Don't you mean "criticizing"? Sorry, just couldn't resist.

[Mike51Merc]

It's starting to sound like the HAMB in here!

[tiger.1000]

Mart really did mean CRITICISING....that's how we boys in the UK spell it in ENGLISH !

By the way 39, England is in the UK

[em1davis]

So here is where I stand today...

I've pulled the left hub off (this is the one where the drum popped off without the hub).

1) I tried placing the right hub & drum on the left side. It reaches about the same spot and binds. This is not quite the same test at this point though because the Key is backwards on this side as well and I have not removed the brake hardware either.

2) I tried moving the left hub to the right side and placing the drum on it as well. This resulted in the same results about an inch (2.54cm for my UK friends) gap between the backing plate and the drum. (Remember there is no brake hardware or key on this side)

I'm beginning to think that somewhere along the way my grandfather used something that was a little off in size and just forced it on. I will get some more pictures up on Saturday with all everything and try and find some calipers to measure the diameter of the tapered portion of the axle and the internal diameter of the hub.

On another note I am going to have to get my drum pressed back onto the left hub. any thoughts on that one.

[JWL]

With the hub pushed onto the axle taper as far as possible,(no key in place) how much of the threaded end is extending outside of the hub? Can you see the end of the threaded section and the beginning of the tapered section near the outer end of the hub??

[George/Maine]

Hear we go again.
Todays tech info.

Seeing you like MM the studs on inside of drums were they are cut away as to not turn when tighting wheel.
The cut away there is step seeing in pics.
See if it measures 104MM or usa 4"
Your drum looks to be 3 1/4" hole or 84MM
Now if the hole is to small you need 4" drum.
To remove go to shop and have studs removed or put nut on so not to damage threads and get big hammer.
All this means that the drum is mounted on other side so drum is moved outward.
　
Macs auto parts Part # 32-15686-1 4" hole Drum
"Use stud 51A-1107"

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by George/Maine

Hear we go again.
Todays tech info.

Seeing you like MM the studs on inside of drums were they are cut away as to not turn when tighting wheel.
The cut away there is step seeing in pics.
See if it measures 104MM or usa 4"
Your drum looks to be 3 1/4" hole or 84MM
Now if the hole is to small you need 4" drum.
To remove go to shop and have studs removed or put nut on so not to damage threads and get big hammer.
All this means that the drum is mounted on other side so drum is moved outward.
　
Macs auto parts Part # 32-15686-1 4" hole Drum
"Use stud 51A-1107"

Jason......I've just landed after "dusting some crops". I know you're sincere in asking for help here, and as I noted in an earlier post, there are at least three earlier posters (Andy, JM35 Sedan, KUBE, and others) that are well-qualified and have been genuinely trying to help you with FACTUAL information. I realize that one do-gooder has continued to intersperse this thread with some unfortunate mis-information that must be quite confusing for you. Incoherent thoughts and incomplete sentences are difficult to take seriously. Please have patience!

FACT, Jason......There are TWO basic hub/drum types between 1940 and 1948....drum mounted OUTSIDE of hub flange, AND drum mounted INSIDE the hub flange.

FACT.....EITHER type of drum/hub combination, in their original UN-MOLESTED configuration will fit and work properly with your backing plate, assuming no axle damage, no hub damage or bent flange, no drum damage/bending, and that the axle key is PROPERLY installed in the axle keyway.

The drum/hub combination shown below in YOUR picture is obviously of the earlier 1940-'41 variety with the drum mounted on the OUTSIDE of the hub flange. As KUBE noted in a previous post, and as many of the other experienced folks with real knowledge will tell you, there were more than one SPECIFIC drum shape that can be found mounted on the outside of these early hubs, but you can be assured that any of those ORIGINAL combinations are the same dimensionally, and will mount-up on an UN-DAMAGED axle taper and work properly with your backing plates.....as long as the CORRECT axle key is utilized, mounted with the tapered end of the key pointed INBOARD, and with the taper facing DOWNWARD in the keyway toward the CENTER of axle.......take that KEY positioning to the bank!

You are probably aware by now that your pictured drum is bent. You can bet that the hub flange below that drum is also bent. This is what can typically result when someone (possibly in years past) attempted to remove that VERY-STUCK hub/drum with one of those three-jaw pullers that bolt to three of the studs. Keep in mind that those pullers also exert tremendous force on the axle end (often off-center), and that may be part of the reason your axle threads were damaged. The bad news is that your pictured drum/hub is now a boat anchor......it cannot be reasonably repaired. You need to find a decent, used drum/hub........they are still out there if you look hard enough. You can advertise in the "wanted" section here on the 'Barn. Remember, EITHER configuration will work.

One more fact that relates to the latest piece of bad information as suggested in the quote above.......the brake drums are PERMANENTLY attached to the hubs at the factory by SWAGING the five studs via tremendous pressures with a swaging tool right at the holes in the drums where the five studs protrude. It's a process that V's the steel around each stud circumferentially to clamp the drum to the hub. If you look around each stud closely, you should see the minute circle of steel which is discernable from the drum itself. People that don't know any better attempt to drive the studs out with a BIG hammer (as suggested above). If you don't cut the swages away with a special tool first, you WILL bend that hub flange.......PERIOD! I speak from experience, about 45 years ago. This swaging process is also why you can't just have your other drum "pressed back on". I cannot speak as to HOW that drum became free of it's hub.



The drum/hub shown below is the late type ('46-ish to '48), and the type that was originally on your '47. DIMENSIONALLY, with respect to fitting your axle and backing plate, they are the same as the early hubs/drums. Again, EITHER will work in your case, precluding any damage to any of the pieces involved.





We need more pictures, especially shots that may show clear details of any bending, bunged-up keyways, or any other sorts of damage. It would be better if you can post pictures directly on the forum, rather than on a remote facebook-type page. Stage your pictures carefully to show the importance of details. We're still here to help! DD

[Kube]

Originally Posted by em1davis

So here is where I stand today...

I've pulled the left hub off (this is the one where the drum popped off without the hub).

1) I tried placing the right hub & drum on the left side. It reaches about the same spot and binds. This is not quite the same test at this point though because the Key is backwards on this side as well and I have not removed the brake hardware either.

2) I tried moving the left hub to the right side and placing the drum on it as well. This resulted in the same results about an inch (2.54cm for my UK friends) gap between the backing plate and the drum. (Remember there is no brake hardware or key on this side)

I'm beginning to think that somewhere along the way my grandfather used something that was a little off in size and just forced it on. I will get some more pictures up on Saturday with all everything and try and find some calipers to measure the diameter of the tapered portion of the axle and the internal diameter of the hub.

On another note I am going to have to get my drum pressed back onto the left hub. any thoughts on that one.

Jason, I've been away a bit and apologize for a tardy response.
That drum that has separated from the hub is poopy at this point. This is not simply a matter of replacing the drum as had been suggested by a guy a little earlier.
It is appearing more and more to be damaged drum(s) causing your issues.
To reiterate an earlier post of mine: the way you had the brake hardware, etc. was correct. I would suggest shortening that spring on the cable. Too long (it is) and it will push that shoe out a bit. Otherwise, your installation was great!
Get the key installed correctly, tapered end DOWN and TOWARD the inside.
You're almost there!
I like the fact that you are (seemingly) remaining patient in spite of some of the misguided (and misinformed) advice you have received. That's all part of the learning curve!

[George/Maine]

Jason You don't have stock drums.

You never want to listen to a crop duster,a college drop out that can copy useless info.
When you follow what i have posted you will end your problem.
I can see the level of knowledge on this Ford barn is lacking with 3000 hits.
Its hard to understand that what MACS sells is what you need.
In your country do you have a mechnic that can help you with this problem.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by em1davis

Well the Key was not my problem, the shoes don't appear to be the problem since I can spin the hub by hand and not feel the shoes dragging.

You can see in the picture how far the bearing reaching before it binds by the grease mark.

Any other thoughts.

Or anybody in the Austin, TX area want to swing by in the near future.

Thanks
Jason

OOPS.......wrong again! Pretty easy to see that he ain't no foreigner, being clearly from Austin, Tx. DD