08-14-2017, 02:25 PM | #1 |
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float a motor
first, let me say, I`m not a big fan of float a motor mounts. I bought a nice late 31 SW four door a while back. the previous owner had installed float a motor mounts and electric fuel shut off, so you could shut off the gas from the inside of the car, the fuel line from the turn off valve to the carb has broke now for the third time. each time I made a new gas line. I have now put a woven hose on it. in all my years with the Model A`s I have never broke that gas line. and I was lucky all three times the car did not catch on fire. The question is has anyone else had this happen to them.
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08-14-2017, 03:43 PM | #2 |
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Re: float a motor
Do you think the FLOAT-A-MOTORS caused the gas line & valve to break??????---NO WAY!
Bill Confused
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08-14-2017, 04:36 PM | #3 |
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Re: float a motor
JW; I use this set up for my SW. I attached a stiff wire from inside the car to the hole in the red handle. The stock valve is for back up with the modern ball valve inserted in to the existing steel gas line.
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08-14-2017, 04:56 PM | #4 |
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Re: float a motor
Bill
I have put together a lot of Model A`s with out the float-a-motor and never have broke the gas line except on this car. one time ok but three times, there is a common denominator. the original rear mounts formed a cross member and being a sheet metal guy I know with the float-a-motor set up the frame is aloud to twist at the rear motor mount. and at times it will crack the firewall. I have repair a lot of cracks in firewalls. |
08-14-2017, 05:12 PM | #5 |
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Re: float a motor
Does your car have the FAM on the transmission/cross-member?
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08-14-2017, 05:35 PM | #6 |
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Re: float a motor
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Also, what are you using for gas line that is breaking? The stock Model A gas line has a lot of flexibility to it and shouldn't break. It is not the thick wall steel tubing that we use today that could be stiffer and more prone to breakage.
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08-14-2017, 05:58 PM | #7 |
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Re: float a motor
The rear motor mounts are what drives your car ahead . The rear springs pay little part due to their fore and aft flexibility , what I mean by that is the motor mount takes driving load way before the spring . The front motor mount plays little role in forward propulsion by its construction . It could be said maybe the engine splash pans contribute but most cars no longer have these anyway . When the rubber donuts in the floatamotor setup get perished and tired the engine can move ahead and astern slightly on acceleration and decceleraion maybe enough over time to cause a gas line failure , just a thought .
John lovely day today but rain on the way Suffolk County England . |
08-14-2017, 06:48 PM | #8 |
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Re: float a motor
I installed FAM's in my car and was concerned about the fuel line.
I made up a new fuel line with a flexible hose in the middle of it. Chris W. |
08-14-2017, 10:42 PM | #9 | |
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Re: float a motor
Quote:
The axle is driven by the engine which in turn the torque tube pushes against the end of the trans (hence that U joint cover and interior dome it pushes against) and actually pushes the engine forward. The henry mounts act as the cross member and transmit that force to the frame rails and dragging the car. FAM its all on those tie bolts and rubber. Now slightly more modern cars with leaf springs that run from axle to frame (or AA trucks) all the forward force is directed to that main leaf from axle to spring eye to body. That's why the more modern cars can get away with sitting on rubber doughnuts cuz the only force they feel is the twisting force.
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08-15-2017, 09:29 AM | #10 |
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Re: float a motor
For what it's worth I have restored many old tractors. I always put a length of rubber tubing in the steel fuel line. No more broken fuel lines from vibration.
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08-15-2017, 10:36 AM | #11 |
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Re: float a motor
I have seen copper lines break but not the steel ones that the vendors sell. I usually place a small bit of rubber someplace in the line though I use the original Motor Mounts and the pans. Three breaks seems there is serious vibration going on.
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08-15-2017, 01:45 PM | #12 |
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Re: float a motor
With COPPER lines, we added 3 coils to the line, to ABSORB vibrations. Looked kinda' NIFTY. We also added coils to wires, going to the engine stuff! AND wound coils around screwdrivers, to MAGNETIZE them. I gotta' do that to my Tack Hammer, the MAGONET DIED!! (TIP#7)
Bill Fun
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08-15-2017, 04:17 PM | #13 |
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Re: float a motor
it is a vender type steel line. there was an electric solenoid gas shut off in the middle of the line. I have now moved it up close to the firewall and put some rubber between it and the firewall. I also added a stainless woven gas hose. the motor is a B and real smooth running it does not seam that is moving around.everything is tight. after three times I have dam lucky it did not catch fire.
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08-15-2017, 04:43 PM | #14 |
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Re: float a motor
I have run FAM ( side motor mounts and transmission mount) on a '30 roadster for 40+ years with the stock fuel lines and connections with no problems...part of its life was on logging roads in Oregon in the 70's...a pretty good shake down test for vibration failure experiences, never a leak.
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08-16-2017, 10:48 AM | #15 |
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Re: float a motor
If the ferrule end of your line ever breaks off, you can "make" a ferrule with string! (TIP#22)
ALWAYS carry string & baling wire! Bill Tipster
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