Houdille Shock Help?... DIY

[1938 Coupe]

I wanted to remove my front shocks and send them out to be rebuilt. I removed the driver side shock first from the frame, but that is where I am.
It seems I can't get the shock lever to release from the other parts of the arm that controls the lever on the shock. Is there a special trick to removing these parts? Are they press fitted? Do you need a wheel puller? I have used liquid wrench and bolt blaster but nothing seems to make these parts separate. I'm afraid to bang on the bolts with a hammer in fear of damaging the threads.
So for now the shock is just hanging there until I figure out what needs to be done. Thanks for any help will be appreciated.

[Kurt in NJ]

You will have to include the year and type of link ---some were rivited together, some had bolt on arms --some the links have a taper like a tie rod end

[1938 Coupe]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

You will have to include the year and type of link ---some were rivited together, some had bolt on arms --some the links have a taper like a tie rod end

These are on a 1938 Coupe and this looks like a taper like tie rod type. They look like they are the original shocks and have never been replaced. The metal flashing that covers the bolts holding the shocks onto the frame are still riveted in from the factory.

[flatheadmurre]

U-joint puller for a truck fits over the end of the arm.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Some previous posts on same subject. Search function here can be your friend

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ove+shock+link

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ove+shock+link

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ove+shock+link

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ove+shock+link

[dwaynec]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

What I did on my '37 was to back the nut n the shock link so that it was even with the end of the threads and then I put a long bar on the nut and gave it a couple hard whacks with about a four pound hammer. You will feel it when it comes loose.

[BILL WZOREK]

As said above but leave shock bolted to frame or it will all be swinging in the breeze.

[jimTN]

Put a hammer under the ring on the arm and hit the top of the ring with another hammer. After a few whacks the tapered link fastner will pop out.

[blucar]

Originally Posted by jimTN

Put a hammer under the ring on the arm and hit the top of the ring with another hammer. After a few whacks the tapered link fastner will pop out.

The above procedure is also an easy way to remove tie rod ends.
Of course a "pickle fork" tool is the right way to remove a tie rod end, however, I know several front end repairman that just smack them with a hammer, that is backed up on the other side with a hammer..

[1938 Coupe]

Thanks for all the great advice.....Bought a pickle fork at good old Harbor Freight for $9 and after a few hard smacks...wah laaaaaa!

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by 1938 Coupe

Thanks for all the great advice.....Bought a pickle fork at good old Harbor Freight for $9 and after a few hard smacks...wah laaaaaa!

A pickle fork will do the job, but after destroying some good reusable links and steering rod ends, I stopped using those. I use the two piece, riveted together dog bone shock links on my '35's and rebuild those with new rubber balls. I even messed up a couple of those once with a pickle fork, but not any more.

[1938 Coupe]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

A pickle fork will do the job, but after destroying some good reusable links and steering rod ends, I stopped using those. I use the two piece, riveted together dog bone shock links on my '35's and rebuild those with new rubber balls. I even messed up a couple of those once with a pickle fork, but not any more.

Thank you for that great advice. I did mess up on one of the links, but I planed on replacing them anyhow.