Wood hood latch blocks

[wrndln]

I have a question about the shape of the wooden hood blocks. I always thought they were rectangular cubed shaped, with all sides parallel. I have pasted in a couple pictures of some original 28/29 style blocks, which is what I am concerned about below. Note the difference between the top edge of the blocks (end view) and the bottom edge. The top edge measures about .7" while the thinner end is any where from .04" to .05" narrower. I have several original blocks and they all have a certain degree of taper on them, some a little more than others. The thinner side is the on the two hole side which is on the outside. My question for someone that knows about these blocks, were the blocks really slightly tapered or was the taper due to wear on the wood over the years? I would think they were made with a taper as it seems wear that would cause the taper would be unlikely to be on all my original blocks. I can make the blocks easily in my shop, but I need to know the right dimensions.
Rusty Nelson

[glenn in camino]

I'm pretty sure they're rectangles with all sides parallel.

[Farrell In Vancouver]

Rusty, the blocks I pulled out of the 28' special were also tapered as yours.
Perhaps they were used to keep the hood shelf parallel to the bottom of the hood?
I scratched my head on this before installing the new home made blocks and realized you cannot really see them once fender and shelf a bolted together. The ones I made were just rectangles the same thickness.
Go figure.............

[wrndln]

Thanks, Farrell and Glenn. I guess I will just cut blocks that have parallel sides and see how they fit. I can always trim the blocks as needed later.
Rusty Nelson

[Steve Wastler]

I will check my blocks when I get home, but I believe they were beveled to the outside to allow for water run off, if they were flat or cocked toward inside, better chance for rust out in the long term of hood shelf.

[1931 flamingo]

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Are these visible after assembling to the frame??
Paul in CT

[wrndln]

These blocks are for 28/29 cars. The only thing that might show ever so slightly is the rear blocks. I held the block in to where it goes under the hood shelf and just a 1/32"+ shows. The blocks sit on the fender edge and under the hood shelves. After the blocks are treated with black stain/paint, I don't think anyone would notice them. The front block would show on the lower edge, but the fender makes it almost impossible to see the exposed edge.
Rusty Nelson

[d.j. moordigian]

Rusty
I'm with Glenn...I think they are squared, not tapered...

[wrndln]

The blocks probably have all parallel sides, but it seems strange that all the original blocks I have have a tapered on them - like I said above, some more than others. Why would the taper be on the same side on all the blocks. Could they wear that much - seems unlikely?
Rusty Nelson

[Farrell In Vancouver]

It might not be wear but what was left over from another product. Henry was famous for using up all materials. Perhaps they are left over from seat back, or cab-wood or some crate they knocked apart after taking delivery of some other part. This might explain why none I have ever seen are perfectly matched sets.
Looking at the originals and the shape they were in I just made new ones from Oak and painted them black. They just have to be tall enough to hold the shelf off the fender and drilled to support the hood latches.
As you say Rusty, only a contortionist would be able to eyeball them once installed.
Cheers!

[Marco Tahtaras]

Originally Posted by Farrell In Vancouver

It might not be wear but what was left over from another product. Henry was famous for using up all materials. Perhaps they are left over from seat back, or cab-wood or some crate they knocked apart after taking delivery of some other part. This might explain why none I have ever seen are perfectly matched sets.
Looking at the originals and the shape they were in I just made new ones from Oak and painted them black. They just have to be tall enough to hold the shelf off the fender and drilled to support the hood latches.
As you say Rusty, only a contortionist would be able to eyeball them once installed.
Cheers!

Henry was famous for not wasting but that "waste" never found it's way into a car unless it was to proper specs! There was NOTHING haphazard used in production.

While I'd expect them to be rectangular I wouldn't be so confident. If it was intended to provide a slight tilt to the hood shelf then removing that tilt would cause a minor gap around the front curve between the shelf and the fender. This would be totally irrelevant with reproduction hood shelves.

Oops, I had that backwards. Removing he tilt would raise the inside of the curve primarily below the radiator shell reducing clearance.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I just removed my right rear hood latch and wood block. It measures:

3" long
1 3/8" wide
11/16" high

Since the outer half is clamped between metal with two screws it may have worn from years of vibration. The inner half of the block only has one screw and it has a recessed pocket containing a square nut for the hood clamp. Therefore the inner half of the block isn't clamped between metal and wouldn't feel any pressure or wear as much as the outer half.

I can bring my block to the meeting next Thursday, if you want to compare.

[wrndln]

Tom,
I ended up making the new blocks parallel on all sides. If I need to taper any of them, then after I test fit them I can, I would just have to reblacken them. I will bring the front pad pattern and a couple of rubber pads I made to the clinic next Thursday.
Rusty

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by Marco Tahtaras

Henry was famous for not wasting but that "waste" never found it's way into a car unless it was to proper specs! There was NOTHING haphazard used in production.

While I'd expect them to be rectangular I wouldn't be so confident. If it was intended to provide a slight tilt to the hood shelf then removing that tilt would cause a minor gap around the front curve between the shelf and the fender. This would be totally irrelevant with reproduction hood shelves.

Oops, I had that backwards. Removing he tilt would raise the inside of the curve primarily below the radiator shell reducing clearance.

Uhhh...just thinking...I wonder if it's the difference between the 1928
and the 1929, the shelf and apron?

[d.j. moordigian]

The 1928 is on top, 1929 on the bottom. It is in the same location on the shelf. There could be a difference between the 28 and the 29 blocks...

[Farrell In Vancouver]

"Henry was famous for not wasting but that "waste" never found it's way into a car unless it was to proper specs! There was NOTHING haphazard used in production."

Sorry Marco, I didn't mean to imply this was a hapharzardly produced part. Just that it may have been "waste" material and given its location and purpose, not finished to Rolls Royce specifications. It may be true they were all intended to be tapered to allow for run-off or hood clearence or what have you. My observations on the cars I have taken apart was that these were not identical or matched so its quite possible they had been replaced by some one at some point. Anyone have drawings to show?

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by d.j. moordigian

The 1928 is on top, 1929 on the bottom. It is in the same location on the shelf. There could be a difference between the 28 and the 29 blocks...

The top one is not E-28..it has the same cut in the back(at the cowl) as
a 1929. It is interesting that the area at the back, where the block is, is the
same depth!

[d.j. moordigian]

Rusty, you're correct. Thick side = .720", thin side = .625".

[wrndln]

When I measured my 5 or 6 original blocks, I didn't get quite as much variation as you did from one side to the other. My blocks were .040" to .070" different. I made the new blocks parallel on all sides. When I install them, I might need to taper some or all to get the hood shelf to set level - we'll see.
Rusty Nelson

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by wrndln

When I install them, I might need to taper some or all to get the hood shelf to set level - we'll see.
Rusty Nelson

I'm now thinking water runoff?

* I'll give you some....say .700" and .635"..? *