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Old 05-28-2017, 12:40 AM   #1
jfreddie
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Default Beak in oil

Breaking in a new ring job. Thought I'd ask if there's a preferred oil to break in since non detergent is very hard to find.

Is 10W30 good enough?

Thanks
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Old 05-28-2017, 12:50 AM   #2
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Default Re: Beak in oil

Hope you all could get the idea it's not "beak" in oil...
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Old 05-28-2017, 12:57 AM   #3
Tom Wesenberg
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Default Re: Beak in oil

Use your regular oil and you'll be fine.
I like to vary the speed and take it easy for the first 1000 miles.
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Old 05-28-2017, 02:53 AM   #4
Mike V. Florida
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Default Re: Beak in oil

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Use your regular oil and you'll be fine.
I like to vary the speed and take it easy for the first 1000 miles.
I think just about all the professional rebuilders would agree to vary the speed.
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Old 05-28-2017, 04:10 AM   #5
Bruce of MN
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Default Re: Beak in oil

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Hope you all could get the idea it's not "beak" in oil...
At first, I thought it might be about something found in your dipper tray.
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Old 05-28-2017, 06:45 AM   #6
Patrick L.
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Default Re: Beak in oil

What oil are you planning on using after the 'beak' in ? The same would be OK for the break-in, except, I wouldn't recommend synthetic for the break-in. I believe in early oil changes for first few hundred miles, like at 100 and then 500.
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Old 05-28-2017, 07:52 AM   #7
Terry, NJ
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Default Re: Beak in oil

I'm a little different than most folks here. I would go to Tractor Supply Co and buy the cheapest , lightest engine oil the sell. Put 4 quarts and run it for about eight to ten hours. Then drain it and throw it away, Then refill with your regular oil. Don't just idle it, the engine should run a at varying speeds and loads. The new engine must wear a slight amount to seat everything, rings , etc. Also you want to drain it to get all the rebuilding residues flushed and out. You don't want too good a lubricant at this point. At the airport, we broke in our new engines on "Mineral Oil" But where you could get it outside aviation, I don't know, or even who made it. We dumped it after ten hours.
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Old 05-28-2017, 08:37 AM   #8
BILL WILLIAMSON
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Default Re: Beak in oil

"Maybe" the Old thing of breaking it in on Non-Detergent was because it used to be cheeper & you dumped it shortly???
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Old 05-28-2017, 09:35 AM   #9
Gunmetal blue2
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Default Re: Beak in oil

In the 70's the old boy would tell me to run light weight oil for 200 miles. Then drain the oil and put kerosein in it. Run for 5 minutes and drain put regular oil back in it.
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Old 05-28-2017, 09:44 AM   #10
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Default Re: Beak in oil

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In the 70's the old boy would tell me to run light weight oil for 200 miles. Then drain the oil and put kerosein in it. Run for 5 minutes and drain put regular oil back in it.
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Old 05-28-2017, 10:12 AM   #11
Terry, NJ
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Default Re: Beak in oil

In the late 50s and early 60s we used to put 3 Qts of diesel or 3 qts of Kero mixed with 1 Qt of 30wgt and run (idle) them for five minutes to flush the engines out! But they were old, loose, High mileage engines! The weren't brand new , out of the box, tight engines! I wouldn't try that with a new engine. As Bill said "How to fry your engine in five minutes!"
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Old 05-28-2017, 10:38 AM   #12
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Default Re: Beak in oil

Thanks very much for the input. I feel like I'm on the right track.
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Old 05-28-2017, 10:39 AM   #13
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Default Re: Beak in oil

If you want to go crazy you can buy Brad Penn break in oil it will seat those rings like right now. It's over kill but what the heck.
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Old 05-28-2017, 10:48 AM   #14
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Default Re: Beak in oil

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If you want to go crazy you can buy Brad Penn break in oil it will seat those rings like right now. It's over kill but what the heck.
Over kill or cheap insurance against all of the $$$$ in that new motor ?
I use the Brad Penn
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Old 05-28-2017, 11:01 AM   #15
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Default Re: Beak in oil

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Originally Posted by jfreddie View Post
Hope you all could get the idea it's not "beak" in oil...

You mean your A didn't eat a bird?!

Detergent oil got going after WW2, about the time cars started acquiring oil filters. The theory (and it may be just that) is detergent oil keeps contaminants in suspension and carries them to the filter, while non-detergent drops them in the pan. Without a filter, supposedly it is better to deposit contaminants than carry them around to bearings, etc. That's the theory (again, maybe just that) for not switching to detergent from non-detergent. Supposedly the detergent will break loose all those deposits from the non-detergent and, with no filter to remove them, carry them around the engine.

I suspect the advice to use non-detergent comes from "back in the day" when that's all there was. Whether detergent or not, the oil should be changed at least as often as the engine manufacturer recommends.
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Old 05-28-2017, 11:13 AM   #16
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Default Re: Beak in oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by jfreddie View Post
Breaking in a new ring job. Thought I'd ask if there's a preferred oil to break in since non detergent is very hard to find.

Is 10W30 good enough?

Thanks
just put what ever oil you are going to run and, a pint of the Lucas break in additive run it for a couple hundred miles and dump it out and, use what ever flavor oil you think fit.
I switched to 10W30 Mobil one after about 100 miles and all is good uses no oil

Have Fun and Good Luck
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Old 05-28-2017, 12:15 PM   #17
Pete F
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Default Re: Beak in oil

Here is the question no one asked!
Are you using cast rings or moly?
What did you put on the cylinders for assembly?
If you break rings in to slowly you can polish them and they will never seal.
The first 10-20 minutes are critical for the ring break in and the cam as well.
You should run the engine at 1500- 2000 rpm and than drive it like you stole it.
The old theory of slow break in is gone.
Just think if that theory was true no one would be racing.
I break my engines in with 10-30 and a bottle of zinc after 30 minutes of running I drain the oil replace it with 10-40 or 20-50 depending on how hot a setup is in the engine put another bottle of zinc and drive it 500 miles before the next oil change.


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Old 05-28-2017, 12:39 PM   #18
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Default Re: Beak in oil

My understanding for using non-detergent oil for break-in was it didn't wash the cylinder walls clean of the minute wear particles while the rings were seating. I know things change with times and new products change the way we do things. I guess I'm still "old school" and use non-detergent for the first 100 miles and then use 30-weight detergent after that and have never had bad results. I have seen some who have had trouble seating rings after over-haul using detergent oil.
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Old 05-28-2017, 04:00 PM   #19
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Default Re: Beak in oil

Does any one think new cars come with non detergent oil ?
use the oil you are going to to use when it is broke in.
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Old 05-28-2017, 05:29 PM   #20
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Default Re: Beak in oil

Like the song, "I DID IT MY WAY"---Most are just looking for someone who agrees with "THEIR WAY"--LOL
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