Removing pinion from 40` banjo housing

[farmerdick]

Greetings,

Couple questions. Does the race come out with the pinion? How much pressure is required to put on the end of the pinion to remove it and the race? It seems that the race would have the biggest resistance in this removal process!!! Someone suggested putting the housing with pinion in the freezer then remove the pinion. The metal would have contracted some and should be easier to remove.

Thanks
farmerdick

[JSeery]

There are many post on this topic. It is not a sample task and most people build some type of fixture to do it.

[Bruce Lancaster]

With any luck at all, someone near you who owns a KRW AATA1 or a good usable rig of a puller will read this and drive over to move the thing outta there!

[Seth Swoboda]

In these instances I have a nearby shop that works on anything from light pickups to semi tractors and they have all the tools necessary to remove bearing races and bushings. If you have one nearby they would probably be glad to assist you. Sometimes I just bring an 18 pack of beer with me and they help me out when in need.

[deuce lover]

I have driven them out with an aluminum or brass drift.

[Ken/Alabama]

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This is the tool I have for removing the pinion and double cup race.

[rotorwrench]

Remove the center section from the pinion is how some folks do it. With a press, it's not to bad a task but you need to come up with some tooling to make it work. I use a receiver tube with a large enough diameter & long enough length to receive the pinion with bearings as you press down on the pinion flange of the center section case. I also use several round press plates smaller in diameter than the bore they have to pass through in order to have something to press against the gear end of the pinion. A press bed plate on my press will fit through the center section so it can be set on the press frame rails with the pinion shaft facing up to the hydraulic ram and still enough room for the center section to fit between the rails. Your limited on the gap in there between the pinion and the back of the case housing so I use one press plate at a time to push against the pinion. I put a plate over the top of the receiver tube to press down against to move the center section. With all this stuff arranged properly, I press the center section off of the pinion shaft assembly.

Ken's jack screw idea will work OK too but I already have the press so I just tooled up to use it.

[NormC]

I have attached some pictures of an extremely crude tooling I put together to remove the bearing pack. I used a jackscrew and plate from a 3 leg pulley puller to act as a press. Good Luck, Norm

[john in illinois]

I have used this set up. Pipe is bigger than bearing race.

[Jason in TX]

Originally Posted by Ken/Alabama

This is the tool I have for removing the pinion and double cup race.

That's cool!

[Capt Kirk]

Originally Posted by Ken/Alabama

This is the tool I have for removing the pinion and double cup race.

I'm assuming the curved part goes inside the banjo and the rod threads out to press out the pinion. I'm not sure how tight these races fit but is there a threat that the banjo could get elongated or broken if it was too tight?

[JM 35 Sedan]

It's a rather easy job. I just pressed a '40 pinion out of a banjo housing earlier today. Using my hydraulic press, a 1/2" drive socket of the correct dia., and a couple sections of 4" pipe. It takes a bit of pressure to get it started out cold, but you could heat the housing area around where the outer race is pressed to reduce the amount pressure required. With some heat applied it almost falls out or drops back in place. I have posted pictures of doing this on previous threads. Send me a pm with your email addy, if you can't find that old post, I will email them to you.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

It's a rather easy job. I just pressed a '40 pinion out of a banjo housing earlier today. Using may hydraulic press, a 1/2" drive socket of the correct dia., and a couple sections of 4" pipe. It takes a bit of pressure to get it started out cold, unless you heat the housing area around where the outer race is pressed. With some heat it almost falls out. I have posted pictures of doing this on previous threads. Send me a pm with your email addy, if you can't find that old post, I will email them to you.

it's the re-install without a press that takes some think stuff. For mine, I used a 5 gal can of hot oil, a freezer, an assortment of stuff from the junk bin, and a BFH. I'll never know how easy or hard it was to seat, as it seated in one blow as the entire jig fell apart. Without a press and pressure gage, it has to be done in a single blow (before temperatures equal) because there is no point of reference that can be measured as to how deep the bearing actually is. This was my thinking, and it worked, so I guess I did something right.

[Capt Kirk]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

it's the re-install without a press that takes some think stuff. For mine, I used a 5 gal can of hot oil, a freezer, an assortment of stuff from the junk bin, and a BFH. I'll never know how easy or hard it was to seat, as it seated in one blow as the entire jig fell apart. Without a press and pressure gage, it has to be done in a single blow (before temperatures equal) because there is no point of reference that can be measured as to how deep the bearing actually is. This was my thinking, and it worked, so I guess I did something right.

Is there not a stop for the bearing race? I have a broken axle and all the guts look good...rebuilding my diff but I'm not touching my pinion.

[Ken/Alabama]

Originally Posted by Capt Kirk

I'm assuming the curved part goes inside the banjo and the rod threads out to press out the pinion. I'm not sure how tight these races fit but is there a threat that the banjo could get elongated or broken if it was too tight?

Been using it over the last 20 plus years and have had some that were pretty tight but never distorted a banjo housing

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by john in illinois

I have used this set up. Pipe is bigger than bearing race.

That's the way I do it. I couldn't see that picture well enough on my iphone when I posted earlier today. Now that I have my tablet I can see much better. Before I started doing it like that in my press, I made up a fixture that came in back of the small bearing journal on the pinion and scew jacked it out. That worked okay, but the hydraulic press method is so much easier and quicker.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Capt Kirk

Is there not a stop for the bearing race? I have a broken axle and all the guts look good...rebuilding my diff but I'm not touching my pinion.

There is, yes, and it must be snug up to it, but no way to know it without watching a gage on a press. All I had was a BFH, hot banjo and cold race. My reason for going in was to change gear ratio's.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by Capt Kirk

Is there not a stop for the bearing race? I have a broken axle and all the guts look good...rebuilding my diff but I'm not touching my pinion.

Kirk, I remember you mentioning on your post about not wanting to take some things apart to check them while that rear is out. I am also taking a '40 rear apart that I had purchased this spring, mainly to salvage the 3.78 gears, and its solid driveshaft. To my good fortune, these components and some other internal parts are in pristine condition, but with that said, I could not believe how poor of condition some other key components turned out to be, i.e., one carrier bearing and its race, the double pinion bearings and race, and one spider gear and its position on the cross shaft where it was spinning. If I was planning to reuse this rear without checking some of these components, it probably whould have failed in no time at all. Just sayin'....you have that rear completely out, and mostly apart, so now is the time you would want to check everything out, like all those pinion bearings, the roller bearing and its outer sleeve, and the oil seal at front of the torque tube. You might find these components in perfect condition, B U T....you may not....I'm just sayin'

ps....I can send you pictures of the components that I mention above if you would care to see them.....

[PeteVS]

I used a "jury rigged" set up. I clamped the center section in a plumber's vice. Then, I used a length of pipe and a couple of blocks sitting on the torque tube flange to straddle the pinion shaft with one larger block sitting on top of that. Next, a jack lifts up on a short piece of channel with threaded rods pulling up on a second piece of channel that lifts the pinion assembly up and out. I started with a 3 ton jack as shown but it wouldn't cut the mustard. A 10 ton jack did the trick.
I use the same channels and threaded rods, bolted to my work bench as a poor man's press.
Oh yes, I've moved my operation to a less cluttered site.

[Mart]

I've just done this job for the first time, and used a setup similar to that posted in post #9 by John in Illinois. It worked, but took quite a bit of force to get it to go. After the first bang, it went quite smoothly.

Thanks to the OP for asking in the first place, It was useful to me to see what people had rigged up.

Mart.