Can we finally get Richard's 8BA Flatty running right?

[Mart]

Ok the first start on the 8BA in Richard's F1 pickup didn't do too well. After a long delay the planets aligned and we were able to get another session on the pickup. So, finally, once and for all, can we get it running properly?

https://youtu.be/6BiTlgIYSKc

[flatjack9]

My procedure for a fresh start. Bring #1 up to TDC firing with the pointer at the timing mark. Drop the distributor in with rotor pointing to #1 plug wire. Connect an ohmmeter between the distributor lead and ground. Rotate the distributor to the right until the points close. Rotate back to the left until the until the points just open. Lock the distributor down and fire the engine. Done.

[APDAVE]

Sounds Great! Good Job Mart!

[Flathead Fever]

One thing I didn;t see, they did not go through the camshaft break-in procedure on that new engine. You want to apply cam break-in lube according to the camshaft manufacturer. You want the engine to start and then immediately raise the rpm up to the specified rpm and the amount of time recommended by the cam manufacturer to break-in the new cam. You do not want to be fiddling around with cranking, starting, stopping while trying to get the distributor in the right spot while also making carb adjustments. You do not want to start it with no coolant and then shut it off and fill it up. All that stuff needs to be done before you attempt to start the engine so you can immediately raise the rpm and hold it there to break the camshaft in before the oil washes off that camshaft break-in lube. My understanding is the break-in period work-hardens the camshaft lobes, so they do not prematurely wear-out and "go flat". Not to mention what that amount of worn off metal from the lobes would do circulating in your oil.

First fill the engine and look for leaks so you don't find a hose clamp lose you forgot to tighten in the middle of your camshaft break-in.

The carb should have already had its idle A/F mixture screws adjusted to around 1 1/2 turns out and the idle speed screw adjusted to just hold the throttle blade slightly open. 1 1/2 turns out on the A/F mixture screws is a starting point for just about every carburetor. It usually ends up being less after the final adjustment. Take the carb while its off and blow into the inlet, you should be able to easily blow into it. While you're blowing into it flip it upside down and if the needle and seat closes you should stop being able to blow into it. You could even hook it to a low-pressure electric fuel pump and see if the carb leaks while on the bench. Make sure the power valve is not leaking, check its float adjustment. Then hopefully this will assure you don't need to mess with the carb during the break-in procedure. You are not going to be running it at idle anyway during the camshaft break-in so the idle air fuel ratio and idle speed settings don't need to be perfect. That won't matter until after the cam is broke-in.

Leave the carb off and plug the fuel line from the fuel pump. Pull all the plugs and crank the engine until the oil pressure comes up. Put your finger over the #1 hole and rotate the engine until you can feel the compression push your finger away. Rotate the crankshaft to the timing marks and install the distributor and static time it like flatack9 said to do. Put the plug and wires on and then also hookup a timing light to #1. With the ignition on, crank the engine and adjust the timing. Now you know for sure the timing is close, especially if you're doing this for your first time. The timing will change a little with the increase in rpm when it's idling but that can be adjusted after the camshaft is broken-in.

Install your carb. f you have an electric fuel pump prime the system, look down the carb and move the throttle until you see the accelerator pump squirts a couple of times. Watch to make sure the carb is not flooding over because of excessive fuel pressure. For mechanical fuel pumps I have a little tiny funnel I use to fill the carb bowl with fuel through the vent tube and check the accelerator pump for a couple of squirts.

If the timing gears were installed properly that engine will fire right off and run pretty decent. As soon as you verify you have good oil pressure you want to raise the rpm up to the camshaft rpm break-in specifications. I use a brake pedal jack between the steering wheel and gas pedal to hold it at the specified rpm. For the next 20-minutes you can be monitoring the temperature and looking for leaks. You might also put a fan in front of the radiator to keep air moving through it.

[tubman]

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Originally Posted by flatjack9

My procedure for a fresh start. Bring #1 up to TDC firing with the pointer at the timing mark. Drop the distributor in with rotor pointing to #1 plug wire. Connect an ohmmeter between the distributor lead and ground. Rotate the distributor to the right until the points close. Rotate back to the left until the until the points just open. Lock the distributor down and fire the engine. Done.

I use this procedure. It takes all of the guesswork out of setting the initial timing.