Radiator questions ...

[chap52]

Got a really nice one for my 52, F1 from Champion Cooling in Lake Elsinor, CA.
Great price (includes shipping), works great, and if your not interested in looking stock, looks great.

[40cpe]

Originally Posted by 36fordguy

Modern Alum core radiators take about 12 lbs of pressure to force the water thru the core. The basic ford pumps will not do this so the water is being sucked at bottom of the radiator-The reducted pressure causes the water boil.

Does this mean that if the system has built up 12# of pressure at the cap, there is less pressure at the bottom of the radiator?

[chap52]

Sorry, forgot to include the url for Champion Cooling
https://shop.championcooling.com/Shop

[draggin49]

Originally Posted by 36fordguy

The radiator in post #22 is a late model radiator.The fins go from tube to tube. Early type radiators the fins slipped over the tubes .The tubes where more round and the tubes went from side to side. Early radiators took less force to push the water thru the core. All the pumps had to do was get the water up to the top of the radiator and gravity took over. Modern radiators are a complet different design for water flow and cooling. Modern Alum core radiators take about 12 lbs of pressure to force the water thru the core. The basic ford pumps will not do this so the water is being sucked at bottom of the radiator-The reducted pressure causes the water boil.

Ok, so the one I have is not original and likely one they got swapped in by a previous owner . That makes me more inclined to just remove it and swap a brand new one in to go with the updated water pumps by Skip Haney .
It sounds like the stuff stuck in the block will continue to be a problem till completely removed . I think I am going to take the motor apart and freshen up some of the internals before the speed equipment is installed .the radiator itself temperature was not as hot as the heads closest to the firewall. This radiator didn’t have any petcock so I had to drain it from the bottom of where the lower hoses go into. It’s weird I was expecting the water to be pretty nasty since it likely has crud built up causing the engine temp to be so hot near the back of the heads by the firewall but it wasn’t .but then again maybe none of the stuff came out that is clogging things up . The water that came out my overflow pipe into the overflow bottle I had rigged up looked worse and had almost like dirt sitting at the bottom of the bottle .

I will try to take pics with the temp gun to show where the various areas are temp wise .
After draining the coolant out of the engine will the engine refill by filling only through the radiator cap or do I need to add fluid a different way to get it back to where it should be?

[Tinker]

If you haven't opened the motor, all the bolt on speed parts are just that. Not saying to rebuild, but a oil pan pull/clean and check of crank bearings isn't a bad idea. Some times its okay...maybe... they are tough motors.



A "in-car" flush of the block (block coolant and oil pan) is a decent start.



Coat hanger, long screwdriver, and a hose or pressurewasher does a decent job on the block.



I'm on the fence on improved water pumps. But rebuild pumps can't hurt.