Broke a Flawed Stud in 59AB Deck

[Binx]

Not crying or feeling sorry for myself but this incident is new to me and I thought I'd share. I always use the heat/wax/cool method with studs and had a top-center one crackle and snap at about half of the expected breakaway torque. It broke three threads below the surface and the remains inside the block has a dark spot in the metal somewhat off-center. To me it looks like an impurity in the metal. I guess sometimes stuff happens....to me.

Lonnie

[ford38v8]

Lonnie, No problemo! Here's your fix:

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/studremoval.htm

[jimTN]

I do this with a normal DC reverse pol elec welder. I do not use a impact wrence but use a combination wrench and carefully twist back and forth feeling the bolt resistance to get it turning out. Works well, have used it to get the bolts out of roller frames on buldozers welding up! I use low hydrogen rods which make a strong weld.

[Ronnie]

Have done dozens with a tig and haven't been stumped yet. A tig with a foot pedal lets you have much control on the weld.
The first attempt if it breaks off just re weld quench with a wax candle it let it cool to the touch and it will come out. Many have been removed with tig,mig,and a stick welder.

R

[SofaKing]

x4. I like the washer idea for flush broken studs, should help protect deck. I've been mig welding them and using PB blaster. I do not let them cool to the touch, prefer feel through wrench.

[Kurt in NJ]

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I like the TIG /washer method, easier than trying to worry studs out,quicker, easier to break them ---but 3 threads down perhaps I would drill rather than risk 3 threads

[Ronnie]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

I like the TIG /washer method, easier than trying to worry studs out,quicker, easier to break them ---but 3 threads down perhaps I would drill rather than risk 3 threads

With a tig you can build up the stud to above the deck and do the washer trick.I have done lots like this also,and always get success.The heat is concentrated and doesn't weld the cast iron at all.I usually use 1/16" er70s6 tig rod and extend the tungsten accordingly.Trying it with a mig with 3 threads down the hole may be a crap shoot I don't have a mig to try it with.

R

[richard crow]

i assum the eng is still in the car .if you dont have the welding equpt. you can drill it out . put the head on the block using the good studs to hold it in place. now take a 7/16 drill bit & drill in the hole of the broken stud just drill a little this will give you dead center.whitch is very important. remove head. now. if you can get a drill with a level plate drill a 3/8 hole to end of stud now use a 7/16 std bottoning tap.if you cant get the drill. install head get a thin wall tubing that is 7/16 od place in hole this will serve as a guide then get a bit as close to 3/8 that will fit throught the id.& drill to bottom of stud. now remove head & drill to 3/8. it is very inportant to drill the stud strait take your time.

[Binx]

I do thank you all for your advice! Sure wish I had a TIG with that fine heat control but alas, only a MIG. The hole is blind (top center over the exhaust port) so I'm thinking I'll drill the stud just short of the bottom to relieve pressure then tap in a band of thin copper tubing to protect the threads and fill with MIG with fingers crossed. If all goes well I'll do the washer/nut.

Lonnie

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by Binx

I do thank you all for your advice! Sure wish I had a TIG with that fine heat control but alas, only a MIG. The hole is blind (top center over the exhaust port) so I'm thinking I'll drill the stud just short of the bottom to relieve pressure then tap in a band of thin copper tubing to protect the threads and fill with MIG with fingers crossed. If all goes well I'll do the washer/nut.

Lonnie

Use the head as a drill bushing. G.M.

[SofaKing]

Originally Posted by Binx

I do thank you all for your advice! Sure wish I had a TIG with that fine heat control but alas, only a MIG. The hole is blind (top center over the exhaust port) so I'm thinking I'll drill the stud just short of the bottom to relieve pressure then tap in a band of thin copper tubing to protect the threads and fill with MIG with fingers crossed. If all goes well I'll do the washer/nut.

Lonnie

You have probably thought of this but the melting point of copper is less than steel you will be trying to weld/fill with the mig. You may end up with a mess that harder to work with than what you have now. Two days ago I got distracted by my little girls and left a bearing under a heat lamp that I bought at HD for $10, when I got back to it 20 minutes later the cardboard it was sitting on was charred and the bearing was at 354 degrees. The bulb was nearly touching the bearing. Not at all what I intended. But it got me thinking that since you are going to drill the bolt anyway, maybe you can heat the block area with one of these cheap bulbs, use some penetrant and back the bolt out with an ez-out. It will take some time but it might work, just thinking out loud.

[tubman]

Maybe a piece of stainless tubing instead of copper? It would be thinner wall and allow more weld area. I'm just thinking off the top of my head as well.

[Ronnie]

Some fellows are way over thinking this operation.I have done too many of these studs and just follow the advice,from members that have done it.The operation will be a success.There is no reason to try and invent the wheel.You don't need an tubing down the hole at all.I can see that a few posters giving advice really haven't removed any studs at all.

R

[Bulligen]

Never ever use easy outs, you will always regret doing so! I have been there more than once!