The Ford Barn

1928Pickuppain · 05-11-2011, 08:06 PM

Ok so im sure you all have read posts of mine about rebuilding my steering collum as of late well i have it all together and back in one thing i didnt talk about was actualy the same day my steering wheel broke of my battery had died earleyr in the day now i know my charging system was not right to begin with becosue when i would drive at night it the lights would slowley run down the battery. i figured after i did the coulm i would have to rewore the truck becouse it was prity half assed mostley 12 v wires and i had no ligth switch just used a togle and a pear of vice grips as my switch. I picked up a wireing harnis and a ligth swich and did it all correct from the start ripped out the old installed the new right wires now that I have all true grounds and all my points are good connections i tryed to start it and the battery was dead again i dont know what the gen should be butting out for juice when the lights are on and what it should be putting out when there off also do the can you adjust the 3rd bruch to componsate for wear on the gen brushes and lastley alwase having my lights draing my battery down cause premature death to my bat?

Gary WA · 05-11-2011, 09:23 PM

If the battery is not new it Could have a bad cell or two. Been there. Need to put a load test on it. Take it to a battery shop and they can test it> or Hydrometer you can buy parts stores inexpensive.

Milton · 05-11-2011, 09:50 PM

" i dont know what the gen should be butting out for juice when the lights are on and what it should be putting out when there off"

Just a guess, but I would think that the generator should put out enough amps to cause the amp meter to read approximately zero with the lights turned on. With the lights off you take what you get, maybe 10 to 15 amps.

"can you adjust the 3rd bruch to componsate for wear on the gen brushes"

Not recommended, just replace the brushes then adjust the third brush.

Also, when the battery is charged, loosen the fan belt an make sure the generator doesn't spin because of a stuck cutout.

Tom Wesenberg · 05-11-2011, 11:30 PM

The third (adjustable) brush is to set the amps. Nothing can compensate for worn brushes, other than new brushes. The 3rd brush should be set to show a 2 or 3 amp charge for most driving. If you do a lot of short drives with a lot of engine starts, then you might need to set the amps higher, like 6 or 7 amps. For night driving, you need to set the 3rd brush even higher to power the lights and still put a small charge into the battey. I don't know of anyone that is always resetting the 3rd brush for different electrical loads and that is why the electronic voltage regulator is so nice. With an EVR, the battery is always charged with only the amps it needs and when the lights are turned on the amps increase to compensate.

SSsssteamer · 05-12-2011, 05:59 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

When I drive at night with the lights on, I let the amp gauge show about a 3 to 5 amp discharge. A good battery will carry that for hours without any noticable drain. With the lights off on my car while running, that would between a 10 to 15 amp charge.

05-11-2011, 08:06 PM	#1
1928Pickuppain Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Billerica, Ma Posts: 461	Electrical problems Ok so im sure you all have read posts of mine about rebuilding my steering collum as of late well i have it all together and back in one thing i didnt talk about was actualy the same day my steering wheel broke of my battery had died earleyr in the day now i know my charging system was not right to begin with becosue when i would drive at night it the lights would slowley run down the battery. i figured after i did the coulm i would have to rewore the truck becouse it was prity half assed mostley 12 v wires and i had no ligth switch just used a togle and a pear of vice grips as my switch. I picked up a wireing harnis and a ligth swich and did it all correct from the start ripped out the old installed the new right wires now that I have all true grounds and all my points are good connections i tryed to start it and the battery was dead again i dont know what the gen should be butting out for juice when the lights are on and what it should be putting out when there off also do the can you adjust the 3rd bruch to componsate for wear on the gen brushes and lastley alwase having my lights draing my battery down cause premature death to my bat?

05-11-2011, 09:23 PM	#2
Gary WA Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Clinton,WA/Whidbey Island Posts: 4,105	Re: Electrical problems If the battery is not new it Could have a bad cell or two. Been there. Need to put a load test on it. Take it to a battery shop and they can test it> or Hydrometer you can buy parts stores inexpensive. __________________ www.whidbeymodelaclub.com

05-11-2011, 09:50 PM	#3
Milton Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 837	Re: Electrical problems " i dont know what the gen should be butting out for juice when the lights are on and what it should be putting out when there off" Just a guess, but I would think that the generator should put out enough amps to cause the amp meter to read approximately zero with the lights turned on. With the lights off you take what you get, maybe 10 to 15 amps. "can you adjust the 3rd bruch to componsate for wear on the gen brushes" Not recommended, just replace the brushes then adjust the third brush. Also, when the battery is charged, loosen the fan belt an make sure the generator doesn't spin because of a stuck cutout.

05-11-2011, 11:30 PM	#4
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Electrical problems The third (adjustable) brush is to set the amps. Nothing can compensate for worn brushes, other than new brushes. The 3rd brush should be set to show a 2 or 3 amp charge for most driving. If you do a lot of short drives with a lot of engine starts, then you might need to set the amps higher, like 6 or 7 amps. For night driving, you need to set the 3rd brush even higher to power the lights and still put a small charge into the battey. I don't know of anyone that is always resetting the 3rd brush for different electrical loads and that is why the electronic voltage regulator is so nice. With an EVR, the battery is always charged with only the amps it needs and when the lights are turned on the amps increase to compensate.

05-12-2011, 05:59 PM	#5
SSsssteamer Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Sedro-Woolley, WA Posts: 1,023	Re: Electrical problems Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) When I drive at night with the lights on, I let the amp gauge show about a 3 to 5 amp discharge. A good battery will carry that for hours without any noticable drain. With the lights off on my car while running, that would between a 10 to 15 amp charge.