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10-17-2016, 10:11 AM | #1 |
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exhaust manifold
OK, I am going to get a new exhaust and intake manifold like Mitch suggested. My question is, what gasket do I get and should I use the gland rings in the exhaust ports?
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10-17-2016, 10:21 AM | #2 |
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Re: exhaust manifold
Use the gland rings.
They will support the exhaust manifold over the years and prevent sagging. As far as the gasket goes, you may be driven by the judging standards if you are going for fine points judging. Al Leach |
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10-17-2016, 10:40 AM | #3 |
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Re: exhaust manifold
Go with the copper gskt, gland rings, I always use new hardware,studs, nuts and concave washers, and the pc'ed exhaust clamp
Last edited by Mitch//pa; 10-17-2016 at 11:11 AM. |
10-17-2016, 11:05 AM | #4 |
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Re: exhaust manifold
Hi rusted,
"Good" advice above. To insure perfect alignment, buy EX &IN manifolds from same supplier after verifying "both" were manufactured by the same manufacturer. Omit gland rings and the rear of your manifold will sag out of alignment with the weight of the exhaust .... just a matter of time. Go with steel manifold gaskets and they will rust out soon ...... just a matter of time. Cheap always sounds good, but ..... take "good" care of your Model A & it will take "good" care of you. |
10-17-2016, 12:19 PM | #5 |
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Re: exhaust manifold
Half of the Model A's I see driving around and work on have an exhaust leak of some kind, some worse than others. That "trick, tick, tick" really irritates me, even though most owners think this is normal. That's because their friends' Model A's also have exhaust leaks. Unless the tail pipe is improperly mated to the exhaust manifold - due to a cheapie muffler flange or poor repo clamp - the cause is almost always the exhaust manifold's drooping at #4. The weight of the tailpipe and muffler over the past 85 years has pulled down the back of the manifold during countless heating and cooling down cycles. Without those gland rings to keep #4 in place, it's just a matter of time before your new exhaust manifold will begin drooping, too. Ford eliminated the rings for a time, but then realized more problems were being caused without them than with them. So, they were brought back to the factory lines. Start out right with your new manifolds: use gland rings!
And even though these rings will eliminate the tendency for the gasket to blow out, invest in the more expensive copper manifold gaskets, as most posters have likewise recommended. They compress (seal) better than the one-piece steel gasket and will work better with the glands and new manifolds. Do not tighten up the two bolts connecting the intake to the exhaust manifold until the four 11/16" manifold nuts have been tightened and re-tightened after a couple heating cycles. The threaded holes in the exhaust manifold for these bolts are "blind", so no exhaust will escape if the bolts are not completely snugged up. Once you cannot tighten the manifold nuts after a few cycles, then gently tighten the two connecting bolts the rest of the way. One more thing: if you have a vacuum windshield wiper, you need to drill and tap the vacuum line fitting hole in the intake manifold. You can do this before mounting the new manifolds or afterwards. It's a pipe thread, as I recall. You could do this with the manifolds mounted and carburetor removed. That way, any metal shavings caused by the drilling and tapping will fall down through the intake manifold's throat and out of harm's way. Your call. Marshall |
10-17-2016, 12:38 PM | #6 |
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Re: exhaust manifold
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Look at the ports on your block, there was a short time that the blocks were not machined for gland rings. But if it is, gland rings and copper gaskets is the way to go. |
10-17-2016, 03:20 PM | #7 |
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Re: exhaust manifold
Has anyone ever figured out if the heater manifolds sag too.? I would think it would be a lot less because of the extra "Meat" where it does the sagging. Also, the upper part of the manifold doesn't get as hot as on the standard manifold. These two things give it more support at a critical point. Jist askin'?
Terry |
10-17-2016, 03:51 PM | #8 | |
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Re: exhaust manifold
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10-17-2016, 05:21 PM | #9 | |
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Re: exhaust manifold
Quote:
I removed the heater manifold on my 28, but I think I will put it back on. |
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10-17-2016, 06:29 PM | #10 |
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Re: exhaust manifold
Yea I have though about it off also. It gives off a lot of extra heat on 95 dgree days. Which we have a lot of in the summer. It think that is where my vapor lock comes from. But it feels very nice in the winter.
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10-17-2016, 06:49 PM | #11 |
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Re: exhaust manifold
To gland, or not to gland, that is the question;
Whether 'tis easier in the shop to suffer The noise and fumes of an outrageous exhaust, Or to take up tools against a sea of troubles And by opposing end them. To gland—to leak No more; and with a gland to say we end The heart-ache and the thousand natural problems That the Model A is heir to: 'tis a consummation Devoutly to be wished.To gland, to seal; To seal, perchance to drive—ay, there's the rub: For with that seal what tours may come, When we have replaced that shorted coil, Must give us pause—there's the aspect That makes potential calamity a day of fun. Etcetera, etcetera, etcetera, with apologies to Willie the Shake.
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Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole. |
10-17-2016, 07:05 PM | #12 | |
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Re: exhaust manifold
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10-17-2016, 07:11 PM | #13 | |
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Re: exhaust manifold
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10-17-2016, 11:28 PM | #14 | |
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Re: exhaust manifold
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10-18-2016, 06:53 PM | #15 |
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Re: exhaust manifold
My engine builder sent me with the steel gasket and said to put gland rings at each end only I have a new intake and exhaust manifold would all gland rings and copper gasket give a better seal do you use any hi-temp sealer to aid in sealing the manifolds?
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10-18-2016, 07:05 PM | #16 |
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Re: exhaust manifold
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10-19-2016, 04:05 AM | #17 |
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Re: exhaust manifold
Thanks again Mitch i appreciate all of your help i always used the gland rings and copper gaskets on my model t's with no issues but i have not put a motor together in 25 years.
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