09-06-2015, 01:44 PM | #1 |
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Location: Southern Alberta
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juice brakes
ive seen here about adding hyd brakes to a A but its all parts from the late 30-40 era. does anyone make a modern kit do do this so I don't have to hunt down all the old stuff. im building a speedster and thinking this might be a good addition
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09-06-2015, 01:52 PM | #2 |
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Re: juice brakes
It shouldn't be that hard to find the parts for the early Ford brakes but MT Car Products reproduces all of the parts for the early Lincoln brakes which are better brakes (Bendix versus Lockheed design). These were a step up from the early Ford brakes. They even have an option for the smaller bolt pattern used in the Model A spindles where the backing plates attach (and thru about 1936). I would suggest you check them out, http://www.mtcarproducts.com/Brakes.html
Charlie Stephens |
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09-06-2015, 02:37 PM | #3 |
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Re: juice brakes
Like Charlie S. says above, the MT CAR PRODUCTS brake components are absolutely "top shelf" parts, designed to work as a system. Make sure you look at their complete "Model A" brake package, found under PRODUCTS. Not in-expensive, but well-worth every nickel, and has virtually all the essential, hard-to-find stuff in one package. DD
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09-06-2015, 06:24 PM | #4 |
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Re: juice brakes
Qutie frankly, a speedster will be very light.
The mechanical brakes will likely exceed your expectations if you do them right. |
09-07-2015, 08:46 AM | #5 |
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Re: juice brakes
There are a couple of kits available. MT Car Products makes every thing new and very high quality. www.mtcarproducts.com, 559-684-8600. We wrote them up when we did the roadster pickup. Clings Aftermarket products, www.clingsaftermarket.com 480-777-1202. We used there products on another project car and they do an excellent kit. I think you will be happy with either vendor.
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09-07-2015, 09:01 AM | #6 |
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Re: juice brakes
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09-07-2015, 10:28 AM | #7 |
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Re: juice brakes
thanks very much for the help gents
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09-07-2015, 12:40 PM | #8 |
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Re: juice brakes
Re-do your Model A mechanicals to like new condition and you won't have any problems stopping. It is expensive but so are new lincoln brakes! It is about $2,000 to have Snyders redo your mechanicals including new drums. For lincoln brakes around $1,200 for backing plates, $600 for new drums and $300 for battery box MC. The MT style drums can be put on with modern style lugs so the drums don't have to be pressed on the hubs. You can round up some original hubs for way less than new. You can struggle with inferior Ford Lockheed brakes for less but can make them work.
With my Model As I went with re-done mechanicals. For the 36 woodie I went with 40 wheels, discs up front and MT lincoln brakes on the back. Cost about the same either way. I've driven about 50 miles with my new Model A mechanicals on a stock 29 roadster around the neighborhood testing out rebuilt tilly carbs. Stops just fine. Last edited by mrtexas; 09-07-2015 at 12:49 PM. |
09-07-2015, 07:31 PM | #9 |
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Re: juice brakes
well im thinking about both ways running driving chassis that a rodder de-boddyed but ive never test stopped it only heard it run
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09-08-2015, 12:11 PM | #10 | |
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Re: juice brakes
Quote:
I recently installed Lincoln Brake 'Kit' on my (beater )! A roadster. It is neither cheap/complete and or easy ! Not cheap is easy to understand, eh ! Not complete, because you have to buy brake lines, fittings ,etc to purchase after getting kit ! And, if putting on model a ...maybe new backing plates/drums need surfaced to eliminate interference. Not easy , as you have to do grinding/cut off mods to fit (that part I did not like). However, I got done and if you need advice / help...PM. Mainly due to costs and also due to availability of equally performance brake parts/sets, if done again and knowing what I now know, I'd buy my needed parts from Fordbarn/HAMB mostly !! Check out the HAMB 'parts for sale' area..rebuilt complete backer plates/drums sets...lot cheaper,eh. Comment: BTW..you say thinking of both ways. Also, think about this. If you just hang around an area of town where you can lazily tool along, properly restored mechanicals are good. IMO, if you do driving in serious city traffic where anything goes these days, think mostly about your health/family/insurance and stopping vs keeping up with city/highway traffic speeds. Last edited by hardtimes; 09-08-2015 at 12:20 PM. Reason: ............ |
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09-08-2015, 12:25 PM | #11 |
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Re: juice brakes
My Third mod.A has mechanical brakes and I like them. My first and second Mod A s have Hydraulic and they're much higher maintenance. It's a "Free Country" but I wish I had mechanicals on the first two and I would not advise anyone having them to change.
Terry |
09-10-2015, 04:14 AM | #12 |
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Re: juice brakes
Mine are here if it helps, already on my A when I got it, but I fixed them up.
http://automotiveamerican.com/?s=brakes If the master cylinder hadn't been mounted to the bulkhead (firewall ) I may have gone back to the rod brakes
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Kevin Flood West Berkshire UK Member MAFCGB, VHRA, SAH, Brooklands Trust Sporadic progress on My 1929 Sport Coupe can be found here along with my blog http://automotiveamerican.com/ |
09-10-2015, 08:09 PM | #13 |
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Re: juice brakes
Mac's catalog has a new brake setup like you mention. A bit of money, but all the stuff is there and ready to go. Pretty good deal.
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09-10-2015, 08:25 PM | #14 |
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Re: juice brakes
Speedway Motors has everything you need at reasonable prices.
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No restorable Model A's were harmed in the building of this truck! |
09-10-2015, 09:13 PM | #15 |
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Re: juice brakes
well im far from the city, gravel and dirt roads , so im thinking now maybe ill just tune up the originls
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09-10-2015, 10:10 PM | #16 | |
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Re: juice brakes
Quote:
I have properly completely rebuilt mechanicals on my '30 Tudor. I drive my car both around town and on tours including some interstate driving. I have gotten into emergency situations where I have locked up all four wheels. I would not even consider changing to Hydraulics. A lot less maintenance with mechanicals. If you let hydraulics sit for a while, sometimes, no matter how careful you are, you may pick up a leak in one of the wheel cylinders. Mechanicals will not leak, and done correctly, will stop very well. This is just my opinion. Chris W. |
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