How to fix wheel bearing race spinning in hub?

[COE Dan]

Ok, I got the stuck grease seal out (see previous thread titled: Question: How to remove stuck inner wheel bearing grease seal?).

Upon removal of the inner bearing, I found the bearing race (cup) spins freely in the hub. I don’t have a replacement hub and I don’t believe they are available so I don’t want to do anything to destroy the hub. The hub is from a 1947 two speed big truck axle.

Does anyone have suggestions/solutions for fixing loose wheel bearing races?

Thanks, Dan

[alchemy]

Check if a new race still spins. Maybe the race is bad and the hub is still good.

You would be surprised what parts are available in the Fordbarn classifieds. If you need another hub, just place a wanted ad.

[B-O-B]

Clean very thoroughly & set the race with J-B Weld

[stangblue]

I can tell what won't work. I had the same problem with a 34 pass. drum. I drill the hub and threaded the hub with 3 allen head set screws to hold the race in the hub. I also used high temp loc-tite . When I intalled the drum I found it would bind up when Rotating . Scrapped it and purchased another.

[alanwoodieman]

repaired paper mill machinery like this- knurl the hub, that is take a center punch and go around the race seat and create a bunch of raised knurls or pricks-do this all the way round and do plenty of them. next clean with alcohol swabs a couple of times clean the new race also, then use red locktite on the race and drive it into the hub, leave it alone for a couple of days and re-assemble

[trainguy]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Silver locktite will work

[BILL WZOREK]

# 5 post
Is almost word for word with what I was going to say.
Been there done that ~ WORKED GREAT !!!

[Tony, NY]

There is Loctite for close fitting parts that will hold it in place.

[COE Dan]

Thanks, guys. Just got the same advice as #5 and #7 here verbally at work. I wasn't aware of silver loctite so I'll look into that. Once I clean up the hub and order a new bearing/race, I'll see what works.

Dan

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Had to say it ........loctite "green" sleeve mount will work good also.
Thought was should have all the colors on this thread,,,

[Ronnie]

http://www.henkelna.com/retaining-compounds-14963.htm

R

[4t8v8]

Originally Posted by alanwoodieman

repaired paper mill machinery like this- knurl the hub, that is take a center punch and go around the race seat and create a bunch of raised knurls or pricks-do this all the way round and do plenty of them. next clean with alcohol swabs a couple of times clean the new race also, then use red locktite on the race and drive it into the hub, leave it alone for a couple of days and re-assemble

Old machinist's trick. It works. I didn't even use the loc-tite.

[alanwoodieman]

I guess they make a loctite "color" for every application. good knurl job and you really don't need loctite, but hey anything helps for peace of mind.

[rotorwrench]

An old machinist would resize the hub in a lathe, if there is enough meat there, and cut a new sleeve to be pressed in & pinned. The new race could then be pressed back inside the sleeve. The big trucks in that time frame likely all share the same hub. Job Lot may have one.

I tried loctite in the front hub of an old T-bird and it only worked for a while before it came loose. It was easier to find a good hub for it though.

[Pete]

Sorry to be a wet blanket for your problem BUT, all of the above advice will NOT work in the long run.
The only thing that works is replace the metal that is gone in the hub. That means hard chrome or hard metal spray and grind the hole back to size.
Sometimes if a hub has enough wall thickness it can be sleeved.

[bobH]

Re post 5 again... I did this about a dozen years ago on one of my cars. It's been working fine.
Another fix, taught to me by another old guy, use a copper rod in your arc welder, and 'skate' a bunch of marks on the area. It works the same as the center-punch method.

[Mike B]

I looked high and low for an "inside" knurling tool a few years back, for this (similar) issue...in my mind I envisioned an expanding 3 knurl tool that would knurl a 2 inch hole by hand.

Never came across one, so ended up bending and quenching a center point and peening the ID, adding loctite bearing retainer, and ran it that way for years...was a Dana 44 rearend pinion hole, probably not the load a hub would ever see though, but worked fine for me.

[49fordv8f4]

The hubs on the single speed Timken axle and the Eaton 2-speed are the same. I have several if you are interested. Ill send you a PM.
Mark

[AKCJ]

When the knurl with a punch method didn't work for me I used green Loctite. It has worked fine that way for many years.

[tamnalan]

I would recommend the Loctite method first. Their products are very good if used on clean surfaces.