The Ford Barn

01-01-1970, 12:00 AM

I was having the same problem just last week. After posting and getting some great tips, I bought new cables, cleaned each connection down to the bare metal, and took off the starter solinoid and cleaned the ground area behind it which I think was the main problem. I had a new starter ready to bolt on but it turned out that the cleaning and cables fixed the problem and saved me some cash cause I didn't need the new starter after all. She cranks right up like never before, will run as long as I want to, and she will fire right back up. Thanks all and good luck fixing your problem, you came to the right place for help!

03-27-2005, 09:48 AM

Car starts fine when cold; after running about half an hour, it won't restart. After sitting about an hour it will start right up and run fine. Doesn't seem to be vapor lock (had that before, know what it's like) or flooding---almost as if battery is dead. Only noise is a "clicking " sound, which I hope someone with mechanical ability (which I lack)recognizes. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

03-27-2005, 10:22 AM

Starter?

<ul>[*]Flathead Fords and Nostalgia Drag Racing[/list]

03-27-2005, 10:39 AM

</center>

Bad solinoid? Maybe?

03-27-2005, 11:35 AM

I had the exact same problem with an "alternative engine". The negative ground battery cable was connected to the frame. The heat of running added just enough resistance for the click click syndrome. I moved the ground to the block and problem was solved. Check and clean all battery cable connections... positive and negative. The ground cable (+ or -) should run to the block for the least amount of resistance. Heat = resistance. Along the same lines...6v batteries require 6v cables...bigger than the 12v replacements.

03-27-2005, 12:19 PM

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Thanks for the replies: I know it's Easter and we should be with family but...this was the car's first day out this spring and this problem wasn't around last fall. I went out to check all the connections, and it looks like the ground is to the block BUT I noticed that the clamp to the positive terminal has a crack in it from top to bottom... in fact, it's almost all the way through and can't be tightened. Think this plus the heat might be the problem? (Bought the 2/0 gauge cable from J.C. Whitney in Nov. 2002...would've thought it had a longer life span.)

03-27-2005, 12:41 PM

that is a big part of the problem, while your changing the ground also run a ground from the engine to body and one from engine to frame, add one from body to frame that way you have all bases covered and will elimanate a lot of electrical problems especially lite problems

03-27-2005, 02:00 PM

It could be. Cracks like to open up as they heat up. If it's cracked replace it. If it's a 6v system, I'd use the reproduction Ford cables. At least you'll know that they are the correct ga. cable. I tend to run larger cables than what may be adequate in a custom system just to avoid a repeat performance. The longer the run the more critical it is. They are cheap and the embarassment is no fun! To check the connections you need to unbolt and wire brush the terminals...all of them. It still could be the starter as others have said. The windings can get hairline cracks that open up with heat.

03-27-2005, 02:59 PM

If cable connections do not solve the problem: Clean the area between the starter face and the belhousing mount down to bare metal. That is the only ground for the starter. If that does not do it, it's the starter.

03-27-2005, 10:13 PM

Starter bolts take of grounding, make sure they are tight and the starter to oil pan bracket is present.Often left off by lazy parts changers.Change the battery cable first,probably broken by overtightening when new.Loose battery cables will burn out head lights and your generator armature.Starter can have worn brushes or flat spot on armature.Solinoid can be jumped with a booster cable when car in in clicking mode.Use of a voltmeter will fin d trouble in less than five minutes.

03-28-2005, 12:33 AM

John, The clicking sound you hear is the starter selenoid - not getting enough voltage to keep the relay closed. Easiest way to check this is, when it occurs, short across the selenoid terminals which will run batt voltage directly to the starter. All the tips on proper grounds and cables are right on. Could be any one or a combination of several. If the problem persists after you verify good grounds and cables, replace the selenoid. Ken(SC)

01-01-1970, 12:00 AM	#1
Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Diagnosis needed I was having the same problem just last week. After posting and getting some great tips, I bought new cables, cleaned each connection down to the bare metal, and took off the starter solinoid and cleaned the ground area behind it which I think was the main problem. I had a new starter ready to bolt on but it turned out that the cleaning and cables fixed the problem and saved me some cash cause I didn't need the new starter after all. She cranks right up like never before, will run as long as I want to, and she will fire right back up. Thanks all and good luck fixing your problem, you came to the right place for help!

03-27-2005, 09:48 AM	#2
Guest Posts: n/a	Diagnosis needed Car starts fine when cold; after running about half an hour, it won't restart. After sitting about an hour it will start right up and run fine. Doesn't seem to be vapor lock (had that before, know what it's like) or flooding---almost as if battery is dead. Only noise is a "clicking " sound, which I hope someone with mechanical ability (which I lack)recognizes. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

03-27-2005, 10:22 AM	#3
Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Diagnosis needed Starter? <ul>[*]Flathead Fords and Nostalgia Drag Racing[/list]

03-27-2005, 10:39 AM	#4
Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Diagnosis needed <center></center> Bad solinoid? Maybe?

03-27-2005, 11:35 AM	#5
Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Diagnosis needed I had the exact same problem with an "alternative engine". The negative ground battery cable was connected to the frame. The heat of running added just enough resistance for the click click syndrome. I moved the ground to the block and problem was solved. Check and clean all battery cable connections... positive and negative. The ground cable (+ or -) should run to the block for the least amount of resistance. Heat = resistance. Along the same lines...6v batteries require 6v cables...bigger than the 12v replacements.

03-27-2005, 12:19 PM	#6
Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Diagnosis needed Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Thanks for the replies: I know it's Easter and we should be with family but...this was the car's first day out this spring and this problem wasn't around last fall. I went out to check all the connections, and it looks like the ground is to the block BUT I noticed that the clamp to the positive terminal has a crack in it from top to bottom... in fact, it's almost all the way through and can't be tightened. Think this plus the heat might be the problem? (Bought the 2/0 gauge cable from J.C. Whitney in Nov. 2002...would've thought it had a longer life span.)

03-27-2005, 12:41 PM	#7
Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Diagnosis needed that is a big part of the problem, while your changing the ground also run a ground from the engine to body and one from engine to frame, add one from body to frame that way you have all bases covered and will elimanate a lot of electrical problems especially lite problems

03-27-2005, 02:00 PM	#8
Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Diagnosis needed It could be. Cracks like to open up as they heat up. If it's cracked replace it. If it's a 6v system, I'd use the reproduction Ford cables. At least you'll know that they are the correct ga. cable. I tend to run larger cables than what may be adequate in a custom system just to avoid a repeat performance. The longer the run the more critical it is. They are cheap and the embarassment is no fun! To check the connections you need to unbolt and wire brush the terminals...all of them. It still could be the starter as others have said. The windings can get hairline cracks that open up with heat.

03-27-2005, 02:59 PM	#9
Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Diagnosis needed If cable connections do not solve the problem: Clean the area between the starter face and the belhousing mount down to bare metal. That is the only ground for the starter. If that does not do it, it's the starter.

03-27-2005, 10:13 PM	#10
Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Diagnosis needed Starter bolts take of grounding, make sure they are tight and the starter to oil pan bracket is present.Often left off by lazy parts changers.Change the battery cable first,probably broken by overtightening when new.Loose battery cables will burn out head lights and your generator armature.Starter can have worn brushes or flat spot on armature.Solinoid can be jumped with a booster cable when car in in clicking mode.Use of a voltmeter will fin d trouble in less than five minutes.

03-28-2005, 12:33 AM	#11
Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Diagnosis needed John, The clicking sound you hear is the starter selenoid - not getting enough voltage to keep the relay closed. Easiest way to check this is, when it occurs, short across the selenoid terminals which will run batt voltage directly to the starter. All the tips on proper grounds and cables are right on. Could be any one or a combination of several. If the problem persists after you verify good grounds and cables, replace the selenoid. Ken(SC)