loose steering

[wingski]

I've got '29 up on jack stands and noticed that there is a lot of play in the steering. I can turn those front wheels back and forth at least 4" before the steering wheel budges. Suggestions? Another thing, both of my shoulders are really fouled up, and I'm afraid that I'm going to have trouble steering the A. It's got a beautiful brand new steering wheel and I hate to mess it up by putting a spinner (squirrel knob) on it, but I don't think I have an option. Again, suggestions?

[Bob C]

Get an F100 steering gear conversion from Randy Gross.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=224905

Bob

[wingski]

That's good advice, Bob, but since I've got the thing up in the air isn't there something I can do now?

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

FIRST, figure out WHERE the SLACK is.
Bill W.

[SSsssteamer]

On my '29 Tudor, I had the same problem. I rebuilt a two tooth steering box and installed it in place of the worn out one. I also took out all of the lost motion in the tie rod ends and drag link. My kingpins were OK. Problem is completely fixed and it steers easily and everything is proper as Henry built it. The two tooth steering box has a couple of adjustments that make up for a bit of wear. The 1928 and early '29 seven tooth steering box lacks these adjustments for wear. Replacement parts for the two tooth steering box are easily available. After driving the Tudor for a couple hundred miles with its rebuilt steering box, I had to readjust the steering box while it was still in the car. Right spot on.

[Patrick L.]

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What Bill said.

Something is loose. Find everything thats loose and fix it. That means everything between the wheel bearings back thru to the steering box adjustments.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Have your wife move the steering wheel back and forth for the 4" while you look underneath for the lost motion. Sometimes it's just a loose pitman arm bolt, or loose wheel bearings. The pitman arm bolt need to be very tight, while the wheel bearing just need to have very light tightening, like the weight of a 10" adjustable wrench on the nut at the 3 o'clock position.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Have your wife move the steering wheel back and forth for the 4" while you look underneath for the lost motion. Sometimes it's just a loose pitman arm bolt, or loose wheel bearings. The pitman arm bolt need to be very tight, while the wheel bearing just need to have very light tightening, like the weight of a 10" adjustable wrench on the nut at the 3 o'clock position.

Is that a HEAVY DUTY or a LIGHT DUTY wrench?---UR a Monkey Wrench?
Bill Lightduty

[wingski]

Tom, I love it when someone tells me what to, and how to do in terms I understand. I retired as a technical writer for heavy machinery and some of the manuals I had to rewrite were not only confusing, they were dangerous. I made sure that the manuals I wrote were understandable by the people reading them, and that they didn't stop in the middle of how to do a job and refer you to page whatever. Thanks again.

[jwilliams81]

I just did this while the front end was up on stands...
http://modelaclub.com/archives/tech-tips/981
I got it down to 3/4" of free play in the wheel.

I would second a vote on the pitman arm bolt.
As well as the two bolts that hold it to the frame.
I actually cranked on those three with a 1' cheater bar.. that has really helped too.

[jrelliott]

Why not check everything right now: Kingpin fit, balls on front spindles where tie rods and pitman linkage connect, tie rod cups, tension on the tie rod cups, pitman arm ball, pitman arm bolt tightness, steering box bolts tightness, steering box etc. While you don't have it all assembled now is the time to check things. A real pain after everything is put together. Good Luck

[jm29henry]

Fix what is worn but leave it original just my thought