Another Tail Light Thread

[29Cabriolet]

I am considering installing LED tail lights. I have a question hopefully someone can help. The vendors offer lenses that are all red, or red and amber. My car currently has red and amber but I'm not sure they are wired correctly. I have turn signals installed. The turn signals operate the upper (amber) portion of the tail light. Brakes also operate the upper (amber) section. The lower (red) section only illuminates when head lights are on. Of course originally there were no signal lights on the car, but it seems to me the brake lights should be red, not amber. So should the brakes have been wired to the lower section? This is a driver, not a show car. It looks original to the untrained eye, but many after market and non original improvements.
Suggestions please?

Thanks!

[Big hammer]

For a driver, IMO, red stop lights. You don't want to teach other drivers what a yellow stop light is about! When they are about to run you over!

[jwilliams81]

I agree that the brake lights should be red. Right now I have the LED ones that are amber for brake on the top half and red for running lights on the lower half. I like the LED because they are so bright, but the trade off is that it could be confusing to other drivers.
I wish a company would make them reverse colors like they are on all modern cars. They should be Red on the upper half for stop and tail, and Amber on the lower half for blinkers. Just like every modern car out there.

[Patrick L.]

Brake lights in most states are required to be red. I didn't like the idea of changing to red, but, just for safety in modern times and the law I switched to red when installing the rear LEDs. Its been long enough now that I don't even notice the difference any more.

The LEDS do make a heck of difference, they are nice and bright.

[SeaSlugs]

Most states antique vehicle laws say it can be however they left the factory. now if you put modern car plates on it then you get into grey area of it must be up to code so to speak.

For a driver i would put the all red lenses in, from the factory ford had amber brake lights red taillights so your car is wired correct as its going to be just need some all red lenses.

[29Cabriolet]

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Originally Posted by SeaSlugs

Most states antique vehicle laws say it can be however they left the factory. now if you put modern car plates on it then you get into grey area of it must be up to code so to speak.

For a driver i would put the all red lenses in, from the factory ford had amber brake lights red taillights so your car is wired correct as its going to be just need some all red lenses.

Thanks for all the suggestions! I think my best bet is as SeaSlugs suggests. . . all red.

I read something about a resistor required if you're running directionals. Safe to assume 2 are required (L and R) and they would be in-line before the directional LED?

[captndan]

For a driver keep it original and add a red stop light in the rear window.

[29Cabriolet]

Originally Posted by captndan

For a driver keep it original and add a red stop light in the rear window.

Good thought, but it's a Cabriolet.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by 29Cabriolet

Good thought, but it's a Cabriolet.

could run something like jeep wranglers have where its part of the spare tire bracket.

[RawhideKid]

Last night coming home from a "cruise night" with a friend with a '32 roadster following me to purchase a part I didn't need, the gentleman made the comment that "your rear lights sure are bright, LEDs right?" I said "yup", and we discussed the benefit of LEDs.

I have the all Red 12v version and am severely tickled pinkish. Very low current draw, very bright lights. In my opinion, the best money that can be spent to add safety to your car, be it 6v or 12v, it makes no difference. Also, like the others have said, why cornfuze the rest of the driving community with yellow stoplights. If you are inclined to add the 3rd brake light, I have seen a couple who have built a tire strap type mount, like the mirror mounts, for their 3rd brake light. using a ratchet type tie down to attach it atop the spare tire. No muss no fuss, and if you are really electrically inclined, you can add a connection somewhere around the bumper spreader bar for ease of removal.

One other random thought rattling around in my head says, "I don't think you need any type or size resistor inline or otherwise added to the lights". Both the 6v and 12v versions come plug-n-play. They also have both positive and negative ground versions.

One word of advice, make sure you have good metal on metal grounds, specially at the generator since without this it seems the voltage spike can do harm to the LEDs, or perhaps a Voltage Regulator type cutout. No sense doing the job half ass and costing extra money.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by RawhideKid

Last night coming home from a "cruise night" with a friend with a '32 roadster following me to purchase a part I didn't need, the gentleman made the comment that "your rear lights sure are bright, LEDs right?" I said "yup", and we discussed the benefit of LEDs.

I have the all Red 12v version and am severely tickled pinkish. Very low current draw, very bright lights. In my opinion, the best money that can be spent to add safety to your car, be it 6v or 12v, it makes no difference. Also, like the others have said, why cornfuze the rest of the driving community with yellow stoplights. If you are inclined to add the 3rd brake light, I have seen a couple who have built a tire strap type mount, like the mirror mounts, for their 3rd brake light. using a ratchet type tie down to attach it atop the spare tire. No muss no fuss, and if you are really electrically inclined, you can add a connection somewhere around the bumper spreader bar for ease of removal.

One other random thought rattling around in my head says, "I don't think you need any type or size resistor inline or otherwise added to the lights". Both the 6v and 12v versions come plug-n-play. They also have both positive and negative ground versions.

One word of advice, make sure you have good metal on metal grounds, specially at the generator since without this it seems the voltage spike can do harm to the LEDs, or perhaps a Voltage Regulator type cutout. No sense doing the job half ass and costing extra money.

Yea i go to cruise ins in my more modern car and follow some pre ww2 cars out of the parking lot and man are those taillights/brakelights hard to see... some of the mid 30's are way low too.

[Marshall V. Daut]

Unfortunately, the taillights on our cars are small, just like the brains of most idiots, who tailgate us and can't see the Model A's taillight. Model A taillights are barely visible anyway, even on top. I like the idea of amber being the brake lens color because it stands out SOOOOOOOOOO much better than red during the daytime. Even with a strong and bright LED bulb in the brake light chamber, the lens portions are just too small for most drivers to notice. Whether modern drivers understand what a yellow taillight means or not, at least they will stand a better chance of seeing the amber color and (hopefully) realize what it means.
As far as legalities go, you've got the law of manufacturer's equipment (EOM) on your side for retaining the amber stoplight lens, in addition to the quasi-legal "grandfather" protection to retain it. So, until I start getting traffic tickets for having an amber stoplight lens instead of red, I'll be keeping Henry's '29-31 lens color combination: amber brake light on top, red taillight in the bottom. Switching that combination is too risky for me, given the inattentiveness on the part of many drivers in my rear view mirror.
Marshall

[Patrick L.]

Resistance may be needed to fire the thermal flasher. I just added higher candle power front turn bulbs for the resistance and better visibility. Or you can add resistors if you'd rather go that way.
You didn't mention 6 or 12 v.
An electronic flasher can be had for 12 v not requiring extra resistance. But, not for 6v.

[katy]

I read something about a resistor required if you're running directionals. Safe to assume 2 are required (L and R) and they would be in-line before the directional LED?

Resistors added to increase the load go in PARALLEL, not series (in-line). One for each bulb.

[29Cabriolet]

Originally Posted by RawhideKid

One other random thought rattling around in my head says, "I don't think you need any type or size resistor inline or otherwise added to the lights". Both the 6v and 12v versions come plug-n-play. They also have both positive and negative ground versions.

This from Snyder's web site:

LOAD Resistor
When running LED style lighting, getting enough resistance to trip thermal flashers can be a problem. This resistor will create the resistance required for tripping thermal flashers. Come with instructions for wiring into your LED lights works on both 6 and 12 volt systems. 50 watt 6 ohm. One resistor is required for each LED.

And this from Bratton's 2017 Catalog Pg 88

NOTE:When using LED lights you must upgrade the front parking bulb or cowl light bulb to a 10 c.p. to get correct amp resistance. If you don't the LED's will not flash.

[captndan]

Originally Posted by katy

Resistors added to increase the load go in PARALLEL, not series (in-line). One for each bulb.

If wired in parallel won't the current follow the path of least resistance?

[MikeK]

Originally Posted by captndan

If wired in parallel won't the current follow the path of least resistance?

Here's the basics of parallel circuits. LINK

[Bruce Adams]

I go with the all red LEDs since you can't teach the world that Model A's differ and My Cabriolet has a Third Brake Light LED on the trunk rack, using velcro to swing it if down. Photo shows a left turn.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

FYI. Washington RCW 46.37.200 stop lamps red or amber or shades in between.

I like the amber because it stands out and attracts attention. Especially if I am tapping them before making a turn.