28 gas gauge gaskets

[pooch]

Cork and neoprene main gasket available, which one is best?

[Richard Wilson]

Never had a problem with cork.

[pooch]

I am about to order parts, along with the steel gauge tools.

Are there any tricks to doing the job and being successful on the first go?

Have been told to make sure I get the brass washer included.

Does the cork gasket go in dry and how much torque on tool to tighten?

[quickchange]

Pooch. Use cork, with brass washer, now for the down under trick, A smear of golden syrup on the cork will ensure no leaks for years, Maple syrup for North of the border.

[2manycars]

neoprene tends to squeeze into the center over time and cause leaks. Cork seems to work just fine. A small smear of gasket sealer is ok. Brass rings are useful to keep the guage from turning when tightening the gland nut, and a drop or two of oil on the brass ring and the gland nut make life easier.

[pooch]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Thanks all for tips.

I read where some guys use 2 brass washers?

No detailed info, but do these both go together just as extra packing to squeeze cork tighter?

I know it will be tight to break an 84 year old seal, but how tight should I do it back up?

Do I just use the length of the tool as a spanner/wrench and use moderate force as if it was a normal nut?

Don't wanna squeeze the bejeezuz out of the cork, or strip threads, or have it too loose.

[2manycars]

The brass washers are not shims, they are slip surfaces for tightening the gland nut, which would bind on the aluminum guage. I tighten well with the special wrench, and apply some oil to the threads of the gland nut, and the brass washer. I have found 2 brass washers on some guages I took apart.

[al's28/33]

You tighten it till it feels snug then cinch it a bit more at a time.
Use CORK.
NO SYRUP.
Get the aluminum tools they work fine, use a 5/8" closed wrench over the smaller tool to tighten the star nut on the housing FIRST, keeping the housing in a bench vise. Not TOO tight to mess up the aluminum casting.
Use one or two brass rings as you tighten the outer nut into the tank.
Make sure you have adjusted the wire so the gauge reads "F" when the cork float is just at the top of the tank.
I used a brass float from Mikes-A-Fordable parts, $10.00 but worth it and follow their directions, otherwise it will sink if you use solder.

BE PATIENT, don't get distracted, good luck!!

[1931 flamingo]

Just for haha's disconnect the battery BEFORE you start, and make sure tank is drained.
Paul in CT

[Steve Plucker]

Ford started production using just one brass washer in the assembly of the gas gauge. However sometime in March of 1929 it was specified to use 1-3 brass washers in the assembly.

Two (2) would be sufficient.

Also, as those above said, I would also use the cork gaskets. Have put non hardening permitex gasket material on the gaskets with no problem.

If you look closely at the surfaces of the tank and and the gauge where they mate together, you will notice that the surfaces are not smooth but have very fine rings or such...these help in the prevention of the gauge not to leak thus forming a good seal.

Pluck

[cobra2]

Why do they include a paper washer in both types of gasket kits? What it for?

[Mitch//pa]

cork gasket
Hard neoprene float
No aunt jemima needed

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by 2manycars

The brass washers are not shims, they are slip surfaces for tightening the gland nut, which would bind on the aluminum guage. I tighten well with the special wrench, and apply some oil to the threads of the gland nut, and the brass washer. I have found 2 brass washers on some guages I took apart.

Ditto. I always use 2 brss rings if I have them and always oil the threads. My aluminum tools work fine. I always use the cork gasket and am still using a cork float with no problems. I use good gas when possible and not the crap gas.