Hot Brakes

[Vicky]

Originally Posted by jwaldrich

Was going to check that today by putting a tad of grease on the brake shoe edge. If this is the case is it a centering problem? Newbie here with no brake experts helping.

If that area is rubbing, it would be shiney on the drum where it hits. Be careful putting grease near the shoe surface. That could cause another problem.

If it is only the left side, you may try changing the right side to the left, and left to the right. I know the shoes are matched to their respective drums, but if the problem changes, it will give you an idea where to look.

Just so you don't chase a ghost, a friend had a similar problem, and he drove it and the shoes wore in, with no problem. His may not have been getting as hot as yours though. Good Luck.

[jwaldrich]

Originally Posted by Vicky

If that area is rubbing, it would be shiney on the drum where it hits. Be careful putting grease near the shoe surface. That could cause another problem.

If it is only the left side, you may try changing the right side to the left, and left to the right. I know the shoes are matched to their respective drums, but if the problem changes, it will give you an idea where to look.

Just so you don't chase a ghost, a friend had a similar problem, and he drove it and the shoes wore in, with no problem. His may not have been getting as hot as yours though. Good Luck.

New drums on both sides (I installed). Shoes look new or nearly new.

[Mitch//pa]

whats defines to hot?
i cant touch a drum etiher without getting burnt after use. the drag your talking about does the wheel spin? is the brake rod connected ? how is it jacked up?

[jwaldrich]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

whats defines to hot?
i cant touch a drum etiher without getting burnt after use. the drag your talking about does the wheel spin? is the brake rod connected ? how is it jacked up?

I use a floor jack on the front axle "centered" when I want them both off the ground. Inboard of the wishbone if I want only one side up.

Yes the left front wheel spins. The right front spins but has drag.

Brake rod is connected.

Too hot to touch but I currently have no way of measuring the temp. How hot is too hot is a good question.

[Mitch//pa]

if you grab the tire and give it a good yank will it spin more than one revoultiuon?

[jwaldrich]

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Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

if you grab the tire and give it a good yank will it spin more than one revoultiuon?

Yes it will.

[larrys40]

Originally Posted by jwaldrich

New development:
Now have NEW cast iron drums on both front spindles. Brake adjustment is backed off all the way. Test ran ruturned both front drums over heated.

When I re-install the drum on the right hand side, the minute I tightened the axle nut only finger tight I got drag.

Me thinks I have bearing issues...

I would NOT put any grease on the leading edge of the shoe. Contaminating the brake linings is asking for other issues. It sounds like you have something binding when the drum is installed. Just a couple of carveats... make sure you don't have a 28 hub ( thinner inner profile and grease retainer/dust ring as well) mounted to a "BR" (late style) dust/grease baffle on the backing plate mounting. the later drums ( most of them are) have a larger donut style thicker boss where the inner bearing sits. they are easily detected. The early hubs will scrape/rub on a later ring.. Probably not your problem but would cause things to bind when the nut is tightened.. so just mentioning that.

You could also try and remove the brake shoes and only install the drum and see if there is any drag. if not then you have to figure out what's causing the issue. Make sure your shoes are fully installed on the tracks.
Make sure the shoes are not cocked, brake springs installed properly.

Everything right your drum should be free when the bearings are adjusted right, and the brake wedge is backed off. Make sure you are in the wedge click and not to a high spot on the adjusting wedge if you know what I mean.

If all is correct backed off slowly adjust the brake wedge in till a slight drag is detected. I should have prefaced to do this with the front brake rods disconnected from the actuating arm. Once completed you can reconnect and properly adjust the rod/clevis to the correct length by screwing it in or out.. whatever you need.

I might suggest posting some photos of the front brakes with the drums off and the drum inside for evaluation.

too bad you are not closer. this is my forte..
Larry

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by jwaldrich

Yes it will.

drive it

[jwaldrich]

A couple of photos.

[jwaldrich]

Originally Posted by jwaldrich

A couple of photos.

Photos

[jwaldrich]

Can this lower track be "bolted on" as opposed to riveted? I have seen Model T brake quadrants bolted on.

lower track.jpg

[kevinmac/toledo]

whats your friends name? the schnitzer? bills dog can tell him a lot...kev

[jwaldrich]

Max is his name.

Brakes are good after replacing almost all the parts!

[Spokes]

Are you asking your Dog about your Brakes ??? He looks like He knows Brakes !!!! You are getting a lot of great suggestions you will work it out. Just don't give up !!!

[jwaldrich]

Originally Posted by Spokes

Are you asking your Dog about your Brakes ??? He looks like He knows Brakes !!!! You are getting a lot of great suggestions you will work it out. Just don't give up !!!

Brakes are good now.The final piece of the puzzle was the brake rods which were completely messed up. That is why it pulled to the left so hard.

Had to put new rods on because when I went to back off the jam nut the rod broke.