The Ford Barn

hellmet · 07-07-2018, 01:55 PM

YES im going to use my cut down 40 tube .

rotorwrench · 07-07-2018, 04:16 PM

I used the 41 torque tube since that's what I had but I don't recall having to do anything other than knocking the old damper bearing out of there. It seems easier to shorten the tube at the tail end flange. At least it was for me. Just cut it off, do some work to the flange on the lathe to fit it back up then shorten the tube & weld the flange back on keeping it square. I had to hire a friend to use his big bed lathe but it didn't take too God awful long. The tab for the bones was removed and welded back on to fit the new bone location. I wouldn't want to use the older torque tube either. I like the later clam shell set up and to me it just looks beefier. This was all for an AV8 project using a genuine 1939 transmission (can tell by the VIN number). I used the shorter radius rod bones since they look a bit cleaner to me.

cas3 · 07-08-2018, 09:06 AM

here's a long read about drive shafts. good luck! https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=238891

V8COOPMAN · 07-08-2018, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mart

In fact you're better off using a later torque tube. the 35/36 TTs can be shortened anywhere along the length.

Mart.

It would be awful difficult to shorten the front 18-20" or so on a '35-'36 torque tube because of the taper, not to mention fitting a "fat" tubular drive shaft in that front tapered portion. DD

hellmet · 07-09-2018, 01:37 AM

think i got it figured out my buddy gave me a hallibrand solid drive shaft same legnth as mine. my shaft is only 47 1/2 in long so i wont need the rear bearing . i think when i originaly cut mine down i never checked the rear bearing in the tube must have been bad plus my shaft was 11 thousands out and the bearing was just whipping around in there with no rubber holding it. i think that was my 53-63 mph vibration.

rotorwrench · 07-09-2018, 11:23 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Solid shafts need that damper bearing to prevent the whipping and the associated vibration it causes. You can try it without the bearing and if it still vibrates just get a bearing from Skip. They aren't hard to install with the tooling he recommends. It's all stuff that can be purchased at the local hardware store. Here's a link. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23729
Post #4 shows the photo. There are other threads on here that show how to install it.

hellmet · 07-10-2018, 02:15 AM

for 158 bucks ill just get it. im not pulling it out again. can any link the instaltion of the bearing. thanks for all the help.

07-07-2018, 01:55 PM	#21
hellmet Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: hemet Posts: 80	Re: Help 33-34 draive shaft in shortened 40 rear end tourqe tube YES im going to use my cut down 40 tube .

07-07-2018, 04:16 PM	#22
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,436	Re: Help 33-34 draive shaft in shortened 40 rear end tourqe tube I used the 41 torque tube since that's what I had but I don't recall having to do anything other than knocking the old damper bearing out of there. It seems easier to shorten the tube at the tail end flange. At least it was for me. Just cut it off, do some work to the flange on the lathe to fit it back up then shorten the tube & weld the flange back on keeping it square. I had to hire a friend to use his big bed lathe but it didn't take too God awful long. The tab for the bones was removed and welded back on to fit the new bone location. I wouldn't want to use the older torque tube either. I like the later clam shell set up and to me it just looks beefier. This was all for an AV8 project using a genuine 1939 transmission (can tell by the VIN number). I used the shorter radius rod bones since they look a bit cleaner to me. Last edited by rotorwrench; 07-07-2018 at 04:22 PM.

07-08-2018, 09:06 AM	#23
cas3 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: sw minnesota Posts: 4,577	Re: Help 33-34 draive shaft in shortened 40 rear end tourqe tube here's a long read about drive shafts. good luck! https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=238891

07-09-2018, 01:37 AM	#25
hellmet Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: hemet Posts: 80	Re: Help 33-34 draive shaft in shortened 40 rear end tourqe tube think i got it figured out my buddy gave me a hallibrand solid drive shaft same legnth as mine. my shaft is only 47 1/2 in long so i wont need the rear bearing . i think when i originaly cut mine down i never checked the rear bearing in the tube must have been bad plus my shaft was 11 thousands out and the bearing was just whipping around in there with no rubber holding it. i think that was my 53-63 mph vibration.

07-09-2018, 11:23 AM	#26
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,436	Re: Help 33-34 draive shaft in shortened 40 rear end tourqe tube Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Solid shafts need that damper bearing to prevent the whipping and the associated vibration it causes. You can try it without the bearing and if it still vibrates just get a bearing from Skip. They aren't hard to install with the tooling he recommends. It's all stuff that can be purchased at the local hardware store. Here's a link. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23729 Post #4 shows the photo. There are other threads on here that show how to install it.

07-10-2018, 02:15 AM	#27
hellmet Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: hemet Posts: 80	Re: Help 33-34 draive shaft in shortened 40 rear end tourqe tube for 158 bucks ill just get it. im not pulling it out again. can any link the instaltion of the bearing. thanks for all the help.