The Ford Barn

Droobie · 12-28-2011, 10:36 AM

I searched the threads and couldnt find anything like what i am experiencing. The clutch pedal is about two inches lower than the brake pedal. I looked in the Les Andrews book Vol.1 how to adjust it and when i went to do so the clevis rod is ran out of thread through the trunnion nut. Is there something I am missing? Is there something wrong? I have no problem shifting and the clutch disengages and engages fine with no grinding.. Thanks fellas

Drew

Patrick L. · 12-28-2011, 10:47 AM

How much free-play do you have?? Can you grab the pedal and pull it back/up into position?? There may be a problem with the release bearing spring.. You could remove the inspection plate on the bellhousing and take a look..

Jim Brierley · 12-28-2011, 11:47 AM

There is a non-adjustable stop thingy on the outer end of the pedal shaft. If the pedal location bothers you take it off and file/grind it so the pedal comes up higher. Most pedals are the same height.

RHD · 12-28-2011, 04:47 PM

You shouldn’t have to grind anything. Your clutch plate (driven plate) be at "Deaths Door" and may need replacing. If you are out of adjustment it could be that. Just a thought. I would certainly not grind anything away. You should never have to.

Droobie · 12-29-2011, 10:00 AM

Patrick, Yes i can pull the pedal up to where I want it. RHD does replacing the clutch plate mean removing the engine? I am worried now....

Patrick L. · 12-29-2011, 10:07 AM

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If you can pull the pedal up into correct position then I'd suspect the spring.. Remove the inspection cover and I think you'll find the spring has broken or has come off at either end.. It shouldn't be too hard of a fix..
If you decide to replace the disk, then either the engine or the rear end have to come out.. I prefer to remove the rear end..

RHD · 12-29-2011, 02:45 PM

Droobie.
As Patrick. L says, the rear end or engine will have to be removed if your problem is in the actual clutch. Check that spring first, through the inspection plate hole. If you do remove the engine, there are a host of other things worth looking at at the same time. Such as the clutch pressure plate, rear engine mount rubbers, would be the first 2 to come to mind. If you want to go that far and are unsure, please let me know, and I can supply info and a host of pictures. Best to email me. [email protected]

Droobie · 12-30-2011, 04:29 PM

Thank you fellas so much.. I will inspect the springs in the a.m. and get back with yall! Thanks again guys!!

Droobie · 12-30-2011, 05:09 PM

OK guys i went out to dig into it and i found that the spring is there and not broken but it is very weak.... I thought to myself that that was a good thing but then started pushing the pedal down and dont have any resistance (disengage) till the pedal is about half way down... Like I said before though that i dont have a problem with grinding gears at all. I hate to tear all the way into it but if yall say to do so that is what i am gonna do...

Tom Wesenberg · 12-30-2011, 06:29 PM

Have you made any adjustment at the trunion on the clutch pedal?

Patrick L. · 12-30-2011, 08:18 PM

Well, it sounds as if you just have too much free-play.. The free-play should be set to about 1" to 1.5"..

columbiA · 12-30-2011, 08:32 PM

The clevis rod on both my A,s are 4"long from end to center of clevis hole,& are threaded for 2"& have lots of adjustment to shorten the rod to reduce free play.

Droobie · 12-30-2011, 11:01 PM

My clevis rod is out of adjustment. the trunion is bottomed out on the threads of the clevis rod. I will measure the rod and threads in the morning and get back to yall. Thanks again!

jan bogert · 12-31-2011, 09:22 AM

i put a new set-up in my nieghbors 29 you have the clutch adjusted to tight.when you adjust it you will see the pedal going back to were it needs to be. its just the vertical rod you need to turn it counter clockwise. you might have to put a small floor jack under the throw out arm to take the pressure off the rod so you can get the rod off so you can adjust it after you pull the cotter pin. JAN SORRY I READ YOUR THREAD WRONG, LOOK AT YOUR PEDAL SHAFT CLOSELY WERE THE BRAKE AND CLUTCH PEDAL MEET SEE IF THEY DIDN'T SLIP APART AND THEY ARE SUPPOSE TO STOP TOGETHERMAYBE YOUR CLUTCH IS BYPASSING YOUR BRAKE.

Droobie · 12-31-2011, 03:29 PM

I went out and measured everything. The clevis rod is about 4" from the center of the pin to the top of the threads and there is about 1 3/4" to 2" of thread and the trunion is bottomed out on the threads. Jan I dont quite understand what you are talking about on the clutch bypassing the brake. Im looking at it and i dont understand. in between the pedals is the spring washer and that is all i see....

Droobie · 01-02-2012, 08:28 PM

Jan I am lost with your comment "LOOK AT YOUR PEDAL SHAFT CLOSELY WERE THE BRAKE AND CLUTCH PEDAL MEET SEE IF THEY DIDN'T SLIP APART AND THEY ARE SUPPOSE TO STOP TOGETHERMAYBE YOUR CLUTCH IS BYPASSING YOUR BRAKE" I am not to sure where to be looking here.. If I pull the pedal up to where the brake pedal is and then push in the clutch it only comes back half way. The return spring is not broke but seems weak. could this be it. But then again i watch as i push the pedal down and the hub doesnt meet the fingers until the pedal is half way down... It shifts fine but that pedal being down there is bugging me.

PC/SR · 01-03-2012, 01:37 AM

Since the gears do not grind it seems the clutch and pressure plate are working. The clutch disc may be getting worn and that is the reason the hub goes half way down before hitting the pressure plate fingers. You can adjust the fingers on the pressure plate without taking it out, but that would only be a temporary fix if the clutch disc is getting worn out. The spring that pulls the throwout bearng hub back should be stiff and pull that hub all the way back. Once that is right, then adjust the trunion.

Marco Tahtaras · 01-03-2012, 01:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Droobie

I went out and measured everything. The clevis rod is about 4" from the center of the pin to the top of the threads and there is about 1 3/4" to 2" of thread and the trunion is bottomed out on the threads. Jan I dont quite understand what you are talking about on the clutch bypassing the brake. Im looking at it and i dont understand. in between the pedals is the spring washer and that is all i see....

Are you saying the rod has a total length of 5-3/4 - 6" total length?

Droobie · 01-03-2012, 05:10 PM

Thank you PC! I will try to adjust my pressure plate fingers. Marco sorry if I confused you. I confuse myself all the time. The rod total is about 4" long and threaded about 1 3/4 to 2" of it.

Patrick L. · 01-03-2012, 05:35 PM

It seems to me that the spring is not returning the pedal.. You can look thru the inspection hole and compare the pedal travel and position to the position of the release bearing.. My thinking may be wrong,but, it sounds as if the low pedal will coincide with the release bearing contacting the pressure plate and pulling the pedal into position will also pull the release bearing away from the pressure plate.. If this is the case then its probably just a return spring issue.. If not, if may be a cracked/broken arm or I'm just not understanding the problem[ which could very well be the case]..

12-28-2011, 10:36 AM	#1
Droobie Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Mooresville NC. Posts: 161	clutch pedal question I searched the threads and couldnt find anything like what i am experiencing. The clutch pedal is about two inches lower than the brake pedal. I looked in the Les Andrews book Vol.1 how to adjust it and when i went to do so the clevis rod is ran out of thread through the trunnion nut. Is there something I am missing? Is there something wrong? I have no problem shifting and the clutch disengages and engages fine with no grinding.. Thanks fellas Drew

12-28-2011, 10:47 AM	#2
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: clutch pedal question How much free-play do you have?? Can you grab the pedal and pull it back/up into position?? There may be a problem with the release bearing spring.. You could remove the inspection plate on the bellhousing and take a look..

12-28-2011, 11:47 AM	#3
Jim Brierley Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 4,118	Re: clutch pedal question There is a non-adjustable stop thingy on the outer end of the pedal shaft. If the pedal location bothers you take it off and file/grind it so the pedal comes up higher. Most pedals are the same height.

12-28-2011, 04:47 PM	#4
RHD Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: New Zealand Posts: 670	Re: clutch pedal question You shouldn’t have to grind anything. Your clutch plate (driven plate) be at "Deaths Door" and may need replacing. If you are out of adjustment it could be that. Just a thought. I would certainly not grind anything away. You should never have to. __________________ R.H.D. Author of Model 'A' Ford technical manuals. Supplier of good original RHD parts.

12-29-2011, 10:00 AM	#5
Droobie Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Mooresville NC. Posts: 161	Re: clutch pedal question Patrick, Yes i can pull the pedal up to where I want it. RHD does replacing the clutch plate mean removing the engine? I am worried now....

12-29-2011, 10:07 AM	#6
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: clutch pedal question Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) If you can pull the pedal up into correct position then I'd suspect the spring.. Remove the inspection cover and I think you'll find the spring has broken or has come off at either end.. It shouldn't be too hard of a fix.. If you decide to replace the disk, then either the engine or the rear end have to come out.. I prefer to remove the rear end..

12-29-2011, 02:45 PM	#7
RHD Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: New Zealand Posts: 670	Re: clutch pedal question Droobie. As Patrick. L says, the rear end or engine will have to be removed if your problem is in the actual clutch. Check that spring first, through the inspection plate hole. If you do remove the engine, there are a host of other things worth looking at at the same time. Such as the clutch pressure plate, rear engine mount rubbers, would be the first 2 to come to mind. If you want to go that far and are unsure, please let me know, and I can supply info and a host of pictures. Best to email me. [email protected] __________________ R.H.D. Author of Model 'A' Ford technical manuals. Supplier of good original RHD parts.

12-30-2011, 04:29 PM	#8
Droobie Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Mooresville NC. Posts: 161	Re: clutch pedal question Thank you fellas so much.. I will inspect the springs in the a.m. and get back with yall! Thanks again guys!!

12-30-2011, 05:09 PM	#9
Droobie Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Mooresville NC. Posts: 161	Re: clutch pedal question OK guys i went out to dig into it and i found that the spring is there and not broken but it is very weak.... I thought to myself that that was a good thing but then started pushing the pedal down and dont have any resistance (disengage) till the pedal is about half way down... Like I said before though that i dont have a problem with grinding gears at all. I hate to tear all the way into it but if yall say to do so that is what i am gonna do...

12-30-2011, 06:29 PM	#10
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: clutch pedal question Have you made any adjustment at the trunion on the clutch pedal?

12-30-2011, 08:18 PM	#11
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: clutch pedal question Well, it sounds as if you just have too much free-play.. The free-play should be set to about 1" to 1.5"..

12-30-2011, 08:32 PM	#12
columbiA Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 1,746	Re: clutch pedal question The clevis rod on both my A,s are 4"long from end to center of clevis hole,& are threaded for 2"& have lots of adjustment to shorten the rod to reduce free play.

12-30-2011, 11:01 PM	#13
Droobie Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Mooresville NC. Posts: 161	Re: clutch pedal question My clevis rod is out of adjustment. the trunion is bottomed out on the threads of the clevis rod. I will measure the rod and threads in the morning and get back to yall. Thanks again!

12-31-2011, 09:22 AM	#14
jan bogert Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: whitehall pa. Posts: 439	Re: clutch pedal question i put a new set-up in my nieghbors 29 you have the clutch adjusted to tight.when you adjust it you will see the pedal going back to were it needs to be. its just the vertical rod you need to turn it counter clockwise. you might have to put a small floor jack under the throw out arm to take the pressure off the rod so you can get the rod off so you can adjust it after you pull the cotter pin. JAN SORRY I READ YOUR THREAD WRONG, LOOK AT YOUR PEDAL SHAFT CLOSELY WERE THE BRAKE AND CLUTCH PEDAL MEET SEE IF THEY DIDN'T SLIP APART AND THEY ARE SUPPOSE TO STOP TOGETHERMAYBE YOUR CLUTCH IS BYPASSING YOUR BRAKE. Last edited by jan bogert; 12-31-2011 at 09:28 AM.

12-31-2011, 03:29 PM	#15
Droobie Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Mooresville NC. Posts: 161	Re: clutch pedal question I went out and measured everything. The clevis rod is about 4" from the center of the pin to the top of the threads and there is about 1 3/4" to 2" of thread and the trunion is bottomed out on the threads. Jan I dont quite understand what you are talking about on the clutch bypassing the brake. Im looking at it and i dont understand. in between the pedals is the spring washer and that is all i see....

01-02-2012, 08:28 PM	#16
Droobie Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Mooresville NC. Posts: 161	Re: clutch pedal question Jan I am lost with your comment "LOOK AT YOUR PEDAL SHAFT CLOSELY WERE THE BRAKE AND CLUTCH PEDAL MEET SEE IF THEY DIDN'T SLIP APART AND THEY ARE SUPPOSE TO STOP TOGETHERMAYBE YOUR CLUTCH IS BYPASSING YOUR BRAKE" I am not to sure where to be looking here.. If I pull the pedal up to where the brake pedal is and then push in the clutch it only comes back half way. The return spring is not broke but seems weak. could this be it. But then again i watch as i push the pedal down and the hub doesnt meet the fingers until the pedal is half way down... It shifts fine but that pedal being down there is bugging me.

01-03-2012, 01:37 AM	#17
PC/SR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santa Rosa, CA Posts: 1,282	Re: clutch pedal question Since the gears do not grind it seems the clutch and pressure plate are working. The clutch disc may be getting worn and that is the reason the hub goes half way down before hitting the pressure plate fingers. You can adjust the fingers on the pressure plate without taking it out, but that would only be a temporary fix if the clutch disc is getting worn out. The spring that pulls the throwout bearng hub back should be stiff and pull that hub all the way back. Once that is right, then adjust the trunion.

01-03-2012, 05:10 PM	#19
Droobie Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Mooresville NC. Posts: 161	Re: clutch pedal question Thank you PC! I will try to adjust my pressure plate fingers. Marco sorry if I confused you. I confuse myself all the time. The rod total is about 4" long and threaded about 1 3/4 to 2" of it.

01-03-2012, 05:35 PM	#20
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: clutch pedal question It seems to me that the spring is not returning the pedal.. You can look thru the inspection hole and compare the pedal travel and position to the position of the release bearing.. My thinking may be wrong,but, it sounds as if the low pedal will coincide with the release bearing contacting the pressure plate and pulling the pedal into position will also pull the release bearing away from the pressure plate.. If this is the case then its probably just a return spring issue.. If not, if may be a cracked/broken arm or I'm just not understanding the problem[ which could very well be the case]..