The Ford Barn

Steve in Tampa · 10-25-2017, 06:27 PM

has spark and gas, no spark to spark plugs, spark on points, checked wiring looks o.k. put a new carbon coil wire . Timed with pin and pulled plug and made sure piston was at the top. Out of ideas, help, this is a new build.

jim1932 · 10-25-2017, 06:34 PM

bad cap? wrong rotor? not sure how else you have spark at points and not at the plugs.

DavidG · 10-25-2017, 07:05 PM

If you used the pin and the depression on the timing gear, the #1 piston would not be at TDC, but rather slightly before TDC recalling that a B distributor has centrifugal advance. But it should still start.

Steve in Tampa · 10-25-2017, 07:26 PM

cap is new rotor also. I get spark between the points, no fire on the plugs. steve

tubman · 10-25-2017, 07:29 PM

Are you sure you have a good condenser? How is the coil?

Steve in Tampa · 10-25-2017, 07:35 PM

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would you still get a spark at the points if coil or condenser is bad ?

jim1932 · 10-25-2017, 07:40 PM

lets go old school...how are you testing spark at points and spark at plugs?

cas3 · 10-25-2017, 07:49 PM

how are you testing for spark at the points? if points are open, touching a screwdriver across the gap, will make a spark. confirming you have some power getting there. if you then place the coil wire near a ground, crank the motor and get no spark, its just poor connection on the contacts of the points themselves. points that have been sitting awhile can have some crud growing on them that perhaps only needs a cleaning. new points that will not spark the coil probably have a bad voltage drop from a bad connection in the ignition wiring some where jim beat me to it!

old Tom · 10-25-2017, 07:52 PM

if its like a model a dist. your plate might not be grounded that happened to me.

tubman · 10-25-2017, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve in Tampa

would you still get a spark at the points if coil or condenser is bad ?

Yes. The "primary" side of your ignition seems to have power. The "secondary" doesn't. I have found the hard way that a bad or no condenser means no spark. Same if the coil is open (broken wire internally) or grounded (shorted out). I would change to a known good condenser. If you have a multi-meter you can do a preliminary check on the coil. The primary side (the two smaller terminals) should show a resistance of between 1-6 ohms. The secondary side (coil tower to ground, usually the coil case) should be 8,000-10,000 ohms. Any large difference from these numbers (or a zero reading) means problems.

Steve in Tampa · 10-26-2017, 07:59 AM

O.K.I will try that today The way I checked the points is with a screw driver prying the points apart. At the plug ,screw driver to # 1 on dist. to ground, while engaging the starter.

TJ · 10-26-2017, 09:29 AM

Put your old cap and rotor back on and see if it starts.

Jason in TX · 10-26-2017, 09:41 AM

There is a distributor drive down in the engine that can break preventing the rotor from turning.

Crank the engine over with the cap off and make sure the rotor is turning.

If this is a newly painted distributor, or head, the paint on either one may be preventing a ground from the head to the distributor body. You should scratch a bare metal piece on the distributor and inside the distributor hole in the head.

Make sure the wire from the lower plate to the upper turning plate isn't grounding on the distributor body.

Below is what turns the distributor. There is a pin through it that can break.

Steve in Tampa · 10-26-2017, 09:47 AM

Question, is the coil suppose to be on the inside of the firewall? (32 model B 1/2 ton truck )

Steve in Tampa · 10-26-2017, 09:53 AM

I will check this , Thanks, Steve

DavidG · 10-26-2017, 09:55 AM

Yes, inside the firewall.

Steve in Tampa · 10-26-2017, 10:01 AM

My coil wire seems to be short about 3 to 4 inches. Firewall seems to be in correct position, I do not understand why this would be short. Any ideas

Bob C · 10-26-2017, 11:01 AM

Is this what you have? https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/cgca...&searchnumber=

Bob

Steve in Tampa · 10-26-2017, 01:42 PM

yes that is the one , about 1 maybe 2 inches short . Were their different fire walls , different engines ?

Steve in Tampa · 10-26-2017, 01:53 PM

Yahoo.... got her running . Coil wire , was the main item ,dist. body and rotor were also changed. The distance of the dist. body contacts to the rotor seemed to large, so I changed them. Now My Carb is leaking at the main bolt, that screws both half's together. Any info on this, Is there suppose to be a gasket there? steve thanks for all of you guy`s info. steve

10-25-2017, 06:34 PM	#2
jim1932 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Hancock, MA Posts: 2,783	Re: Model B 4banger, won`t start bad cap? wrong rotor? not sure how else you have spark at points and not at the plugs. __________________ Short URL: http://smu.gs/14g7eDW

10-25-2017, 07:05 PM	#3
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: Model B 4banger, won`t start If you used the pin and the depression on the timing gear, the #1 piston would not be at TDC, but rather slightly before TDC recalling that a B distributor has centrifugal advance. But it should still start.

10-25-2017, 07:26 PM	#4
Steve in Tampa Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 95	Re: Model B 4banger, won`t start cap is new rotor also. I get spark between the points, no fire on the plugs. steve

10-25-2017, 07:29 PM	#5
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,319	Re: Model B 4banger, won`t start Are you sure you have a good condenser? How is the coil?

10-25-2017, 07:35 PM	#6
Steve in Tampa Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 95	Re: Model B 4banger, won`t start Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) would you still get a spark at the points if coil or condenser is bad ?

10-25-2017, 06:27 PM	#1
Steve in Tampa Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 95	Model B 4banger, won`t start has spark and gas, no spark to spark plugs, spark on points, checked wiring looks o.k. put a new carbon coil wire . Timed with pin and pulled plug and made sure piston was at the top. Out of ideas, help, this is a new build.

10-25-2017, 07:40 PM	#7
jim1932 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Hancock, MA Posts: 2,783	Re: Model B 4banger, won`t start lets go old school...how are you testing spark at points and spark at plugs? __________________ Short URL: http://smu.gs/14g7eDW

10-25-2017, 07:49 PM	#8
cas3 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: sw minnesota Posts: 4,577	Re: Model B 4banger, won`t start how are you testing for spark at the points? if points are open, touching a screwdriver across the gap, will make a spark. confirming you have some power getting there. if you then place the coil wire near a ground, crank the motor and get no spark, its just poor connection on the contacts of the points themselves. points that have been sitting awhile can have some crud growing on them that perhaps only needs a cleaning. new points that will not spark the coil probably have a bad voltage drop from a bad connection in the ignition wiring some where jim beat me to it! Last edited by cas3; 10-25-2017 at 07:50 PM. Reason: to add

10-25-2017, 07:52 PM	#9
old Tom Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 195	Re: Model B 4banger, won`t start if its like a model a dist. your plate might not be grounded that happened to me.

10-26-2017, 07:59 AM	#11
Steve in Tampa Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 95	Re: Model B 4banger, won`t start O.K.I will try that today The way I checked the points is with a screw driver prying the points apart. At the plug ,screw driver to # 1 on dist. to ground, while engaging the starter.

10-26-2017, 09:29 AM	#12
TJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Napa,California Posts: 6,037	Re: Model B 4banger, won`t start Put your old cap and rotor back on and see if it starts.

10-26-2017, 09:41 AM	#13
Jason in TX Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: ⓉⒺXⒶⓈ Posts: 2,047	Re: Model B 4banger, won`t start There is a distributor drive down in the engine that can break preventing the rotor from turning. Crank the engine over with the cap off and make sure the rotor is turning. If this is a newly painted distributor, or head, the paint on either one may be preventing a ground from the head to the distributor body. You should scratch a bare metal piece on the distributor and inside the distributor hole in the head. Make sure the wire from the lower plate to the upper turning plate isn't grounding on the distributor body. Below is what turns the distributor. There is a pin through it that can break. __________________ -------------- Drive it like you know how to fix it! DMAFC / OILERS CC-MC

10-26-2017, 09:47 AM	#14
Steve in Tampa Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 95	Re: Model B 4banger, won`t start Question, is the coil suppose to be on the inside of the firewall? (32 model B 1/2 ton truck )

10-26-2017, 09:53 AM	#15
Steve in Tampa Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 95	Re: Model B 4banger, won`t start I will check this , Thanks, Steve

10-26-2017, 09:55 AM	#16
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: Model B 4banger, won`t start Yes, inside the firewall.

10-26-2017, 10:01 AM	#17
Steve in Tampa Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 95	Re: Model B 4banger, won`t start My coil wire seems to be short about 3 to 4 inches. Firewall seems to be in correct position, I do not understand why this would be short. Any ideas

10-26-2017, 01:42 PM	#19
Steve in Tampa Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 95	Re: Model B 4banger, won`t start yes that is the one , about 1 maybe 2 inches short . Were their different fire walls , different engines ?

10-26-2017, 01:53 PM	#20
Steve in Tampa Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 95	Re: Model B 4banger, won`t start Yahoo.... got her running . Coil wire , was the main item ,dist. body and rotor were also changed. The distance of the dist. body contacts to the rotor seemed to large, so I changed them. Now My Carb is leaking at the main bolt, that screws both half's together. Any info on this, Is there suppose to be a gasket there? steve thanks for all of you guy`s info. steve