Engine still won't start....

[Lebowski]

I removed the floorboard and checked the battery terminals and the positive one came off when I twisted it. I tightened it down really well and at least it will crank over now but it still won't start. My wife cranked it over while I removed the coil wire and held it next to the engine block and there was no spark. Could the coil have gone bad? Are there any other simple things that I can check?

[robw]

Ok, so now you've narrowed it to the ignition system...

This would be easier if you had Les Andrews' trouble shooting guide...

1. Does the rotor spin?
2. Are the points opening and closing?
3. If you have the key on and you manually open the points... do you get a spark?

[robw]

Here, this link will help you understand the ignition system: http://modelabasics.com/Ignition.htm

[Lebowski]

I called a guy in Louisville who has a Model A for sale and he's going to come out on Saturday morning and take a look at it. He says he's owned several of them over the years so he should be able to get it running hopefully. Thanks again for the assistance and I'll let you know what happens....

[SDJason]

time to break out a multimeter:

check for 6V along the entire electrical path from the battery to the points to figure out WHERE the problem is:

assuming your car is wired up in the standard way:

with ignition switch OFF, check for 6V here:
- starter
- terminal box (on the side that is wired to the starter)
- terminal box (the other side - should have a black wire going to the coil)
- coil (side with the black wire)
- coil (side with red wire)

place a piece of paper between the point to make sure they stay open, then turn the key on and check for 6V at the points arm

if you have 6V at all those places, you should have spark (assuming the coil is good)
you can check for that by manually opening the points arm with the coil wire near a head bolt.

some common places where problems can occur (at least from my experience):
- armored cable NOT screwed in far enough to make contact
- armored cable screwed in too far & shorting out
- tab on lower plate shorting out against the distributor body

If you are going to be digging into the distributor, make careful note of the cam position (with a cam wrench fitted into the cam notch, note where one edge or the other of the wrench is relative to the distributor body - using a sharpie on the upperplate & distributor body helps) BEFORE you remove it, unless you want to have to set the timing afterwards.

You'll also have to remove the condenser before the lower plate can be removed - when doing that, it might be a good idea to superglue the insulating washer to the lower plate that the screw holding the condenser passes through.

If you DO end up having a short somewhere in the distributor, switch the multimeter over to ohmmeter mode to track it down - you pretty much want to have continuity along the electrical path from where the ignition cable plunger hits (the tab on the lower plate) all the way up to the points arm, but NO continuity between that path and ground.

[Lebowski]

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Originally Posted by robw

Ok, so now you've narrowed it to the ignition system...

This would be easier if you had Les Andrews' trouble shooting guide...

1. Does the rotor spin?
2. Are the points opening and closing?
3. If you have the key on and you manually open the points... do you get a spark?

Yes, the rotor spins. Now when I push the starter button nothing happens so I guess I'll have to wait until Saturday when this guy comes over to look at it....

[Lebowski]

Originally Posted by SDJason

time to break out a multimeter.

I don't have a multimeter. I don't even know what it is. Sorry....

I lived in the San Diego area from 1982-98 in La Mesa and then Lakeside. What part of town are you in?

Thanks for the lengthy and thoughtful response....

[1931 flamingo]

Is there a fuse on the starter??
Paul in CT

[SDJason]

Originally Posted by Lebowski

I don't have a multimeter. I don't even know what it is. Sorry....

Uhhh...that could be a problem - I don't see you troubleshooting this yourself....

Originally Posted by Lebowski

I lived in the San Diego area from 1982-98 in La Mesa and then Lakeside. What part of town are you in?

Carmel Valley - been there since 1990, and in San Diego off and on since 1983. It's a beautiful (if pricey) place to live

Originally Posted by Lebowski

Thanks for the lengthy and thoughtful response....

You're welcome...and good luck

[afuncar]

make sure you charge your battery, it's nearly impossable to test with a weak or dead battery.

[Bob C]

Clean the points with a piece of fine sandpaper.

Bob