I am now a model A owner,

[Fordestes]

I just acquired a Really nice 30 A coupe Barn Find, the late owner was in the process of removing the engine for re build and passed before he was able to get it out of the car, I am thinking about going back with lighter 283 pistons and a lighter flywheel for better performance and less stress on the crankshaft and main bearings , I was wanting to find a good source for 283 pistons and mabe a part number , also will the v 8 dog dish flywheel work in place of the heavy stock flywheel ? this has no doubt been done to these engines ,what kind of results good or bad can I expect ? I understand some have changed the steering gear to a modified F-100 pickup gear to achieve easier steering, is that good improvement for the steering , I am a little bit on the older side and want to have the car where I can enjoy driving it instead of letting it sit around like a piece of garage art. any helpful input would be appreciated .
Thanks Fordestes

[MAG]

You are going to be inundated with "to do" things to it. My 2 cents is to THINK first. Decide what you want the car to do.

[ModelA29]

Go sit in the garage with a note pad and start your list. Sort your list into - must - should - I'd like to. Decide what type of driver you want. 5 mile ice cream runs or 200 mile tours. Check the youtube Model A videos on what people have done and their reasons why. Mine has the F100 box but I'm told the 2 tooth is fine. There is a shorter pitman arm that will make steering easier at much less cost and work.


283 pistons don't seem to be worth the hassle. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92676

[Chuck Dempsey]

Congrats, and welcome to the 'Barn. Pics are ALWAYS appreciated!

[Fordestes]

Originally Posted by MAG

You are going to be inundated with "to do" things to it. My 2 cents is to THINK first. Decide what you want the car to do.

That is why I am asking questions, you folks are the ones with the know how to tell people like me what action to take, I saved it from a hotrodder, I intend to get it running to where I can drive it and not torture my body from the experience, this car was last tagged and inspected in 1983, it has been in dry storage , There is only some mild surface rust and according to the two people who have came by and looked it over there is no body filler and no signs of rust through on the body or frame , they pointed out there was no primer paint used at all which I find unusual, Is the non use of primer paint a common thing in the depression era cars?

[Fordestes]

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Originally Posted by ModelA29

Go sit in the garage with a note pad and start your list. Sort your list into - must - should - I'd like to. Decide what type of driver you want. 5 mile ice cream runs or 200 mile tours. Check the youtube Model A videos on what people have done and their reasons why. Mine has the F100 box but I'm told the 2 tooth is fine. There is a shorter pitman arm that will make steering easier at much less cost and work.


283 pistons don't seem to be worth the hassle. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92676

That is what I wanted to know, I don't hardly build anything for short runs, I have been associated with the long haul trucking industry for quite some time and I like to have any one of my vehicles to where if the urge hits me I can get in and go where I choose without as I said torturing my beat up old body! ,Thanks again for you input It is valued information. Fordestes

[Fordestes]

Originally Posted by ModelA29

Go sit in the garage with a note pad and start your list. Sort your list into - must - should - I'd like to. Decide what type of driver you want. 5 mile ice cream runs or 200 mile tours. Check the youtube Model A videos on what people have done and their reasons why. Mine has the F100 box but I'm told the 2 tooth is fine. There is a shorter pitman arm that will make steering easier at much less cost and work.


283 pistons don't seem to be worth the hassle. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92676

After reading the posts on the 283 pistons, it may not be for me, I remember when I was a youngster the town machinist done the 283 deal and I never forgot it, I was too young to actually know what all was needed, it don't sound cost effective for my needs, I sometimes want to improve things that don't need improving. I am still wanting to lighten the flywheel, I think that would be some improvement as far as static load is concerned.
Many thanks, Fordestes

[Synchro909]

Think carefully about using a light flywheel. If you are going to be cruising long distances, a heavy one will smooth things out and you'll handle hills better. If you will be running around town, a light flywheel makes gear changing more of a challenge unless you use a synchro cog box. One change affects other things all the way to the back wheels - then there are the brakes. You want to get this right from the start. Changes your mind later is costly.
My best cruising car has a flywheel that hasn't been lightened and around town, down shifting is easier than the ones with a heavy flywheel. It's easier to match the revs.
That's my 2c worth and I recognise it is your car and your $.

[Fordestes]

Chuck Dempsey, Are you possibly related to Jack Dempsey the famous Boxer, when I was a teenager I was privileged to ride in a 28 model A coupe that once belonged to Jack Dempsey , I was shown his name on the original registration paper, it was at a collectors farm up in Morris Oklahoma, I never will forget it .

[Fordestes]

Thanks.
that is what I wanted to know, I learned a long time ago to not believe what some say, what works for them may not work for me.

[1930artdeco]

I lightened the flywheel in my car about 12 lbs or so. It lets the engine rev faster and takes a bit of weight off of the rear main. I feel it lets a little more power to the rear end but I lose a bit on the hills. I still retained the Model A clutch this way and have no problem shifting gears up or down.

Mike

[Chuck Dempsey]

Originally Posted by Fordestes

Chuck Dempsey, Are you possibly related to Jack Dempsey the famous Boxer, when I was a teenager I was privileged to ride in a 28 model A coupe that once belonged to Jack Dempsey , I was shown his name on the original registration paper, it was at a collectors farm up in Morris Oklahoma, I never will forget it .

No relation, at least not mentioned in his will....

[Keith True]

I really think I would just put it together stock for now.The mods you are talking cost a lot of money.You may even find that an A is just not for you.You may not like the ride,handling,fit,speeds,etc.You also may just fall in love with the whole experience.I think you would rather figure out you didn't like it with $3000.in a patched together engine than to find it's not for you with a $7000.engine.

[Conaway2]

I suggest driving it stock for a while to get the feel of the car before you change it.

I installed a lighter flywheel and V8 clutch in my roadster 3 years ago, and honestly cannot tell the difference. I wouldn’t do it again.

Also, the stock 2-tooth steering box, if rebuilt with a short pitman arm, works extremely well - easy steering and no slop.

Get the engine running as is and see what you have - you maybe pleasantly surprised.

Good luck - Jim

PS - I’m older too….70, and have driven Model A’s. Since I was 15.

[wwirz]

I drive essentially a stock Model A for club tours,ice cream runs,and 200 mile trips. To make my car reliable I did change to a leakless water pump, modern upper and lower plate which updates the car to a modern points and condenser. I drove 2000 miles in 2022 without any issues. Drive it stock with these mods I made and I think you will be fine. Keep up with the maintenance schedule, especially changing the oil every 500 miles.

[updraught]

Interesting to know why the engine was being pulled. Pull it apart. If the bearings are good you may get away with a re-ring and some exhaust valves to get it going. Will run at about 50 lbs compression. Then I'd be spending the cash on new brakes. Several thousands worth. Then if the engine is no good buy a new Burtz block with cam, head, crank, and flywheel and avoid vibrations and block cracks.

[History]

Originally Posted by Chuck Dempsey

No relation, at least not mentioned in his will....

I’d bet money you are related to him, not enough to matter to most but I bet you are!!

[Fordestes]

Originally Posted by updraught

Interesting to know why the engine was being pulled. Pull it apart. If the bearings are good you may get away with a re-ring and some exhaust valves to get it going. Will run at about 50 lbs compression. Then I'd be spending the cash on new brakes. Several thousands worth. Then if the engine is no good buy a new Burtz block with cam, head, crank, and flywheel and avoid vibrations and block cracks.

I visited with the deceased owners son in law and he told me what he could remember , the p/o said it was using too much oil and he wanted to make it right, the old man owned a few old fords and they sold all but this A, it was supposed to go to another person according to his will, but the other person also was deceased and the old car just sat in a shipping container with trees grown up around it over the almost 40 years, it seem the p/o used the cars to promote his tire and auto businesses and he liked to build them ,all said the old A was kept inside for the many many years the old man owned it and hardly driven except for special occasions, from what I can tell and others who are more into model A's the car has original sheet metal , the only parts I cannot find are the rear view mirrors, I have laid out all the parts that were removed and had others look it over and it seems to be a good candidate for a driver car or one to bring up to show quality, the underside does not have any rust as far as we can tell, The engine will turn and the brakes worked when we were towing it down to where we could load it on the trailer, when I was a kid I had a 30 roadster, my late father got rid of it because I kept getting out on the county roads ,not being old enough to get a license. later on I bought an old ford truck which I still own today (over 55 plus years). no doubt this A is the one I have been longing for for over a half century, I realize what you all are saying and I totally agree, these cars and many other older cars are mostly for people who want to and can repair them and not for someone in a hurry to get where they need to be. you all have been very concise on the points of old car ownership and as always I am proud to be a part of the Barn, I will try and find a 10 year old to post some pictures for me , that car was a deal I could not pass up especially after seeing the prices the piles of rusted sheet metal are selling for lately, it seems to me the model A prices tend to fluctuate somewhat over the years but lately they have climbed like everything else , Many thanks again for your input.
Fordestes

[Smokedtires]

Research high compression heads, that may be the answer to what you're looking for.

[Fordestes]

Originally Posted by Smokedtires

Research high compression heads, that may be the answer to what you're looking for.

Believe me I have done a lot of research, and didn't realize everyone and his brother have made or are making high compression heads for these old engines, I am cautious about overloading on compression due to the splash oiling and Babbitt Bearings, It would be nice to be able to accelerate on the entrance ramps to where I won't be as apt to get clobbered by some speedfreak who don't understand what common courtesy and a lane change is about. I see where there is a police head and I think Sniders makes a head also. any opinions on a high comp head ? any input on the add on counter weights for the crank, I realize the heavy flywheel does the same but I also realize the stress concentrated on the rear of the crankshaft and main bearing area, that is what I was thinking about when I was contemplating the lightening of the flywheel and adding the weights to the area forward of the flywheel to the crank pin area in an attempt to better balance , I cant fathom how a spindly little old crankshaft can withstand the stresses applied to it as the model A and the model T have, there is quite a heavy hunk of iron spinning around at the rear of the small shafts .