Synthetic oil in a Model A

[Joe K]

If you do its more expensive than synthetic.

Last time I bought non-detergent SAE30 I found that to be the case.

I ended up not at AutoZone but rather at one of the Model A Parts Sources.

Joe K

[Canton_Model_A's]

One item that Paul brought up in his video (which is really good btw) is the worst oil today is better than the best oil of the time. Take that for however you want. I run Mobil-1 in mine, No filter, but then again, she doesn't get driven all that much, maybe 2000 a year at this point in time.

[JayJay]

I run Mobil 1 in mine, with a filter. I figure that other than checking the dipstick, oil is one less thing to worry about.

[Oldgearz]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

I run Valvoline VR1 racing 20W-50 motor oil in my car. It has additives that protect the engine that are not allowed in cars with catalytic converters. They also make a synthetic racing oil if that floats your boat.

In the 60's when I started driving Model A's, I bought the cheapest oil I could find because it eventually ended up on the road through the rear bearing. The stuff looked like the oil I now drain out of my car when I change the oil.

Valvoline VR1 Racing 20W-50 Motor Oil

I use semi-synthetic (with no leaks) 10-40 with high zinc and phosphorus. No complaints other than cost. I change oil before 1,000 miles but that's about 2 years of driving.

[rich40701]

I use AMSOIL Z-ROD 20w-50 for classic cars.

[Ayers1]

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Thanks for the discussion guys! My dad was very old school and believed that it came with 30W, so that's what they use now. I have talked with members of our club and like here, everyone has their preferences due to their experiences. You all have given me plenty to think about! ����

[Jim/GA]

Attached are scans of 2 pages from my original 1931 Ford Model A Instruction Manual (Owners Manual). It talks about lubrication and oil viscosity.

[Ayers1]

Interesting Jim/GA. Thanks for sharing!

[jeepguy1948]

Here is my thinking on the subject 30 weight and say 10w 40 (btw,the “W” stands for “Winter”, not weight) I understand the “if it was good enough for Henry it’s good enough for me” etc. type of thinking. Straight 30 weight was the best available in 1928. It is not the best available now. It’s the same as steel vs cast iron brake drums. A good portion of the wear in a gas engine occurs in the first couple minutes after the engine is started so I want that oil pumping fast at that time and multi vis is better for that. Also, the better oil stays “stuck” when the engine is not running also helps with ‘dry start” I believe synthetic does this better.

[Ayers1]

I agree Jeepguy. Just because it has always been done that way doesn't mean it's the best way.