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08-06-2022, 01:28 PM | #1 |
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1929 carburetor
My model a is spitting gas out the carburetor it’s aluminum and says model x on it. I don’t think it’s original? Anyone have words of wisdom?
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08-06-2022, 02:44 PM | #2 |
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Re: 1929 carburetor
Sounds like a Tillotson.
Where is the gas coming out? I think you will find that most people will shut down their Model A by first turning off the fuel at the tank valve, and then wait a couple of minutes and the engine will sputter and die of fuel starvation. This empties the line and the float bowl. If it still leaks/drips while sitting overnight with the fuel valve off, the fuel valve is probably leaking just enough to eventually fill the float bowl and possibly drip on the floor.. Does you carb look like this?
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08-06-2022, 02:47 PM | #3 |
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Re: 1929 carburetor
That’s exactly the carburetor I have! Gas is coming out the opening towards the firewall but only on startup it stops whenever it’s running I do turn gas off just not kill engine with fuel starvation
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08-06-2022, 02:49 PM | #4 |
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Re: 1929 carburetor
While it’s on my mind locally I can obtain ethanol free gasoline is this a good idea for these?
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08-06-2022, 02:53 PM | #5 |
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Re: 1929 carburetor
If you turn the fuel valve on, and then just watch, don't start it, does fuel eventually start dripping out the carb throat?
Might be that the float valve needs to be replaced or at least cleaned. Can you tell if there is a pencil filter inside the tank, attached to the fuel valve inside the tank? Might put one on your list if you don't have one. Helps keep debris out of the carb.
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Early '29 CCPU that had a 4-speed, but not any more.......in the family since '62 |
08-06-2022, 02:54 PM | #6 |
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Re: 1929 carburetor
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https://www.brattons.com/FUEL-TANK-F...uctinfo/13280/
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Early '29 CCPU that had a 4-speed, but not any more.......in the family since '62 |
08-06-2022, 02:55 PM | #7 | |
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Re: 1929 carburetor
Quote:
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08-06-2022, 03:47 PM | #8 |
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Re: 1929 carburetor
This is a common flaw which develops in Model A carburetors.
The solution path is to buy the "carburetor level kit" which includes a bolt with a hole in it, a plastic tube, and instructions for attaching them to your carburetor. The use of the kit is to determine where the level is currently in your carburetor, and allow you a repeatable method to determine changes to the level. When properly adjusted, the bowl level (regulated by the inlet float valve of your carb) should be "just below" the level of the main "jets" of your carb. There may even be a published level for your Tillitson Model X but I can't remember what exactly this is. You can with a small ruler determine this by putting the rule down the throat of the lower half of your carb - and measuring the distance UP to the carburetor mating flange. Your level determined by the kit should be slightly BELOW this. You change the level setting by bending slightly the float support - which contacts the needle valve. You need to be sure your needle valve WILL shut off the gasoline flow. Sometimes the needle wears, or the seat wears, or the (usually) three sided valve stem gets "hung up" in its seat guide. Or you simply have "garbage" under the seat. While "solid" valve stems were the original and work well when they shut off bubble tight, the best and usual found valve stems include a "buna-n or viton point" where the actual shut off occurs. Viton (white) would be preferred but there are still a lot of buna-n (black) tipped needles out there waiting to be dissolved by the alcohol in the gas. A buna-n needle is not a death sentence. I had a John Deere 110 lawn tractor which had a buna-n needle - it would soften and gum-up over the winter and "freeze" itself to its seat. No gas flow. A sharp rap with a hammer handle would usually free it for the next year operating season. But a disassembly and inspection of your carb will assure you of proper function no matter if a solid needle or elastomeric tipped. My experience with the Tillotson X carburetor is POSITIVE. Better than Zenith by most reports. Better mileage, better pickup, no braking stalls. But they do have a defect in the two halves of the carburetor CAN become distorted and affect carburetor action. Pot metal (aluminum?) works but is more fragile than cast iron. Joe K
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08-06-2022, 06:06 PM | #9 | |
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Re: 1929 carburetor
Quote:
I have an Economy Power King tractor with the same rap it with the screwdriver handle malady lol it’s worth noting it did the same with the car |
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08-06-2022, 06:07 PM | #10 |
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Re: 1929 carburetor
Thank you to all for the help with my new project
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08-06-2022, 06:51 PM | #11 |
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Re: 1929 carburetor
I generally attach an inlet pipe and blow through it while gently pushing up the float to insure it shuts off at the proper level. The level is close to the level of the main feed in the venturi. The Tilloson is an easy carb to work with and is fine for driver cars.
Some folks like the Marvel Schebler carbs but I don't see a lot of difference. They are both good aftermarket carbs. The zinc die cast fragility is the only thing a person has to be careful about. The castings warp easily so they shouldn't be tightened up too tight on the fasteners |
08-07-2022, 05:51 AM | #12 | |
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Re: 1929 carburetor
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08-07-2022, 09:49 AM | #13 | |
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Re: 1929 carburetor
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08-10-2022, 06:09 PM | #14 |
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Re: 1929 carburetor
Little cleaning with carburetor cleaner and it’s acting a lot better thank you for all the help
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