The Ford Barn

Al Bass · 02-23-2011, 10:44 PM

I started my rebuilt engine today. after about a minute it started to knock with a really bad rapping sound, at a really fast idle it would stop but backing it down to idle it would rattle again, I used my stethoscope and held it on the gear cover were the cam plunger sits and that is were the noise was comming from. I reved it up to a fast idle and held it there for about 3 minutes I guess and when it went back to idle no more noise, I think it just needed to settle in. Then I saw a waterleak on the bottom side of the water jacket just under the water pump, the same place I had the machine shop weld up for me.

I will call them tomorrow. is there an easy patch that I could use without tearing things all apart ? I will take it for its maiden vayage tomorrow if we dont get to much snow tonight.DSCN4788.jpg

DSCN4785.jpg

1931 flamingo · 02-24-2011, 09:52 AM

Cooling system sealant, barr's or alumaseal(not the full tube). What condition is radiator in (you don't want to put sealant into a marginal radiator i wouldn't think). Dry e/thing and try JB WQeld on the outside? let us know what you find for sure it is and what you do to correct, please.
Paul in CT

Brentwood Bob · 02-24-2011, 01:47 PM

Al, notice an oil line coming off the block. Is it for the gage? Bob

Al Bass · 02-24-2011, 01:55 PM

the radiator is a new recore with 0 hrs. I hate to put stop leak in it. If I get it ready to drive soon enough today I am going to run by the shop that fixed the leak and see what they say.
the copper tube goes to an oil pressure gauge.

1930artdeco · 02-24-2011, 01:56 PM

If the block is cracked, we used JB Weld on ours. The cooling system is not under that much pressure so it wil hold fine.

Mike

criswellnk · 02-24-2011, 02:09 PM

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Just asking for clarification: Is it the repair that was done that is leaking, or could it be coming from somewhere else?

I never really listened to my father until I got much older, "...if you see hoof-prints look for a horse first, then when you don't find one you can look for a zebra." Check the hoses, packing nut, water pump gasket and water neck gasket first. A leak at any one of these points would end up dripping right about where you say it is leaking. That is just where I would start, good luck.

Dave in MN · 02-24-2011, 03:52 PM

Ouch a Leak! Don't fret to much yet.
JB Weld..the slow set...has curred many a frost crack in my shop on a Model A block. Find the crack by magnafluxing and cut along the fault line with a 1/16" wide abrasive blade about 3/32" deep. Clean the surfaces and make sure the surfaces are dry. Force JB Weld into the cut leaving a buildup over the cut as it seems to shrink a bit when curing and most times shows the line of the crack. I know...shrink..I do not know for sure if it shrinks but it always shows the cut line as the JB cures. It has never pulled away from the cut edges and we have not had one leak yet. The JB Weld can be filed or sanded when left to cure over night. Most of the time, you can not see the repair.
Good luck with your new engine!
Dave in MN

RonC · 02-24-2011, 04:13 PM

Why don't you just drain it and reweld it???

Tom Wesenberg · 02-24-2011, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RonC

Why don't you just drain it and reweld it???

I don't think you can weld a block without heating it in an oven first. If it was my car, I'd use JB Weld, as I've heard much success with it fixing Model A cracks.

Model A Man · 02-24-2011, 11:59 PM

the coupe I have aparently had a leak in the same place as yours. when I was cleaning the block to repaint it I found JB weld in the front under the water pump and it has not given me any problems.

John Duden · 02-25-2011, 08:09 AM

if the JB weld does not hold, maybe take the head off and get it rewelded or find a good origional one, not many other choices, my friend has the same probelm, he just got a new head,
John

Al Bass · 02-26-2011, 01:21 AM

I talked to the mechanic that did the welding on the block and he said to use K&N Block sealer. that I should drain and flush the antifreeze out and put in about 1/4 can of the sealer through the upper goosneck and let it run down into the front end of the block were the crack is and start the engine and let it run just long enough to get a little heat in it and let it set over night.so maybe tomorrow I will try it ,but I think I will put the backend of the car on ramps to make sure the sealer stays in the front of the block were the crack is.

02-23-2011, 10:44 PM	#1
Al Bass Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Ferndale, WA Posts: 107	it runs I started my rebuilt engine today. after about a minute it started to knock with a really bad rapping sound, at a really fast idle it would stop but backing it down to idle it would rattle again, I used my stethoscope and held it on the gear cover were the cam plunger sits and that is were the noise was comming from. I reved it up to a fast idle and held it there for about 3 minutes I guess and when it went back to idle no more noise, I think it just needed to settle in. Then I saw a waterleak on the bottom side of the water jacket just under the water pump, the same place I had the machine shop weld up for me. I will call them tomorrow. is there an easy patch that I could use without tearing things all apart ? I will take it for its maiden vayage tomorrow if we dont get to much snow tonight.DSCN4788.jpg DSCN4785.jpg

02-24-2011, 09:52 AM	#2
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: it runs Cooling system sealant, barr's or alumaseal(not the full tube). What condition is radiator in (you don't want to put sealant into a marginal radiator i wouldn't think). Dry e/thing and try JB WQeld on the outside? let us know what you find for sure it is and what you do to correct, please. Paul in CT

02-24-2011, 01:47 PM	#3
Brentwood Bob Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: brentwood, ca Posts: 4,249	Re: it runs Al, notice an oil line coming off the block. Is it for the gage? Bob

02-24-2011, 01:55 PM	#4
Al Bass Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Ferndale, WA Posts: 107	Re: it runs the radiator is a new recore with 0 hrs. I hate to put stop leak in it. If I get it ready to drive soon enough today I am going to run by the shop that fixed the leak and see what they say. the copper tube goes to an oil pressure gauge.

02-24-2011, 01:56 PM	#5
1930artdeco Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lynden, Wa Posts: 3,552	Re: it runs If the block is cracked, we used JB Weld on ours. The cooling system is not under that much pressure so it wil hold fine. Mike __________________ 1930 TownSedan (Briggs) 1957 Country Sedan

02-24-2011, 02:09 PM	#6
criswellnk Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Detroit Posts: 288	Re: it runs Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Just asking for clarification: Is it the repair that was done that is leaking, or could it be coming from somewhere else? I never really listened to my father until I got much older, "...if you see hoof-prints look for a horse first, then when you don't find one you can look for a zebra." Check the hoses, packing nut, water pump gasket and water neck gasket first. A leak at any one of these points would end up dripping right about where you say it is leaking. That is just where I would start, good luck. __________________ *"Son, there are two ways to do this, your way and the right way." Thanks dad.* Looking for a copy or reprint of 1932 A.E.A. Universal Catalog of Genuine Electrical Service Parts

02-24-2011, 03:52 PM	#7
Dave in MN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Jordan, MN Posts: 1,411	Re: it runs Ouch a Leak! Don't fret to much yet. JB Weld..the slow set...has curred many a frost crack in my shop on a Model A block. Find the crack by magnafluxing and cut along the fault line with a 1/16" wide abrasive blade about 3/32" deep. Clean the surfaces and make sure the surfaces are dry. Force JB Weld into the cut leaving a buildup over the cut as it seems to shrink a bit when curing and most times shows the line of the crack. I know...shrink..I do not know for sure if it shrinks but it always shows the cut line as the JB cures. It has never pulled away from the cut edges and we have not had one leak yet. The JB Weld can be filed or sanded when left to cure over night. Most of the time, you can not see the repair. Good luck with your new engine! Dave in MN Last edited by Dave in MN; 02-24-2011 at 04:10 PM.

02-24-2011, 04:13 PM	#8
RonC Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 1,868	Re: it runs Why don't you just drain it and reweld it???

02-24-2011, 11:59 PM	#10
Model A Man Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Sarasota Florida Posts: 604	Re: it runs the coupe I have aparently had a leak in the same place as yours. when I was cleaning the block to repaint it I found JB weld in the front under the water pump and it has not given me any problems.

02-25-2011, 08:09 AM	#11
John Duden Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,854	Re: it runs if the JB weld does not hold, maybe take the head off and get it rewelded or find a good origional one, not many other choices, my friend has the same probelm, he just got a new head, John

02-26-2011, 01:21 AM	#12
Al Bass Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Ferndale, WA Posts: 107	Re: it runs I talked to the mechanic that did the welding on the block and he said to use K&N Block sealer. that I should drain and flush the antifreeze out and put in about 1/4 can of the sealer through the upper goosneck and let it run down into the front end of the block were the crack is and start the engine and let it run just long enough to get a little heat in it and let it set over night.so maybe tomorrow I will try it ,but I think I will put the backend of the car on ramps to make sure the sealer stays in the front of the block were the crack is.