![]() |
#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Venice, FL
Posts: 648
|
![]()
What kind engine oil is best for the model "A"? I've read that the latest oil formulations have less zinc which is needed for wear resistance. It is reduced or removed because of catalytic converters in cars. Also I've read that diesel oil has more zinc in it that older cars need and can use because of not having catalytic converters. I'm thinking of using a non-detergent diesel oil.
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,123
|
![]()
If there are 10,000 members of the Ford Barn here, you are going to get 15,000 opinions.
|
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Milton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 101
|
![]()
Good luck finding a non-detergent diesel oil. I haven't seen any in years. Model A's don't need zinc, but do need a heavier oil than the modern fuel saving oils cars run these days. 15w40 or a synthetic 20w50 will work for your needs.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Washington Court House, Ohio
Posts: 177
|
![]()
I use Rotela 15w40 in my A, my motorcylce and my Diesel truck. Never an oil releated problem in any of them.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: oroville calif.
Posts: 1,453
|
![]()
use any major brand 20-50 motor oil, and i wouldnt use non detergent oil on my grand dauthers tri cycle
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southeastern Connecticut
Posts: 464
|
![]() Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Quote:
Rotella's a good product. And, yes, you'll probably get 15,000 opinions. This topic has been thrashed about for years on this site and its predecessor. I wonder, though, can ANYONE cite personal experience with oil-related engine damage/failure? |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: California
Posts: 986
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Venice, FL
Posts: 648
|
![]()
Thanks everyone! Great "Oil Survey". I have a much better idea now of what everyone is doing.
Al |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: new britain,ct 06052
Posts: 9,397
|
![]()
If you're following the original service recommendations (500 mile change) you could probably run vegetable oil and be all right. JMO
Paul in CT |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 13
|
![]()
I have been using Shell Rotella "T" 15-40 in all of my cars since 1980. It been has used in over highway truck diesel engines for over 30 years and stands up to the high injection cam pressures that are super high compared to the flat tappet surface in the "A" engine. Also any of the oils of today is superior to any oil that was available in the 20's and 30's.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ft. Worth
Posts: 1,006
|
![]()
Summer time: Valvoline 50W racing oil
Winter time: Valvoline 30W racing oil
__________________
Cowtown A's |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Penasco New Mexico USA
Posts: 10
|
![]()
Me to I use Rotela 15w40 in my 2 A, my atvs and my Diesel trucks. Never an oil releated problem in any of them.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Senior Member
|
![]()
The slippery kind
![]()
__________________
What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
|
![]()
Interesting that you say that, Mike,
This is not very scientific, but, I tend to "evaluate" oils by rubbing it between my thumb & forefinger with increasing pressure to "feel" it's slickerishness & "body"------?? Castrol always seemed to have a good "feel" to me. Bill W.
__________________
"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: MA
Posts: 570
|
![]()
Question for me is "Non detergent or detergent" ???? The guy I bought it from said non-detergent and has not changed the oil more than once in five years, maybe that's why my engine has a knock - suppose to be every 500 miles ???
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#16 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
|
![]() Quote:
Always use detergent and change it regularly. ![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
|
![]()
Oh! this is an old thread. Someone asked for reports on engine damage from wrong/wrong weight/cheap/non-detergent/etc! Would anybody in their right mind ADMIT a goof up like that???? I WOULDN'T!!! Bill W.
__________________
"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: wherever I am today, whatzit matter
Posts: 431
|
![]()
Likely not a popular answer but I use Quaker Stae High Mileage Oil plus a half a litre of slick 50 in evry second change. The change in between I put in a can of SeaFoam. Al
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southbridge, Ma.
Posts: 1,614
|
![]()
I use Car-Quest 15-40 detergent oil all year and change oil every 1000 miles or earlier if dirty on the stick.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#20 |
Senior Member
|
![]()
You will find at least one person for each brand and weight of oil sold for autos.
__________________
What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#21 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
|
![]()
i see the survey does not have a category for 15w40, which seems to be popular
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Westlake Village, CA
Posts: 477
|
![]()
I have used Chevron Delo 400, a 15w40 diesel oil in my 3 'A's and my motorcycle for years.
I think that a zinc additive is important because of the flat tappets. |
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
#23 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,746
|
![]()
I use 15-40 or 20-50 when its on sale at WALMART and change it after 1,000 miles-no filter.I dont bother with a zinc additive as the rpms & valve spring pressures are low on an A.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#24 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 36
|
![]()
There is so much discussion about this subject for sure. We had a discussion at our last club meeting that went for quite a while. Some run racing oil, some synthetics at $$$$ a quart, some diesel oils, etc. Fact is zinc is being reduced in everything. Personally, as columbiA said, I run Valvoline on sale. I do, however, have a filter and add ZDDP. I think better safe than sorry.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#25 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Noxon Montana
Posts: 532
|
![]()
You can talk about this oil and that oil forever. The facts are, that most all engine oils today are derived from a paraffinic base crude oil. There are two types of crude oil, Paraffinic and Naphthenic. Most lurication engineers specify and use the Paraffinic based oils. The paraffinic is recognized for it's ability to resist thinning and thickening with temperature, as well as it's lubricating properties and resistance to oxidation, which is sludge froming tendencies. All of the oils mentioned by the members here are very good, modern lubricants.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|