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03-02-2014, 07:59 PM | #21 |
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: League City, TX
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
OK, the issue on 5& 6 is solved. I seemed to swap those two plug wires when i reassembled it this morning. I meant to do a continuity test then, but got sidetracked and forgot. Vacuum is back in the 11 range, but it has a bunch of initial advance. When I crawled underneath to investigate an exhaust leak, I did notice that the rear main seal is leaking badly and there's a good bit of smoke vapor coming from the road draft tube, which makes me think it must be seeing a lot of crankcase pressure. Not good.
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03-02-2014, 08:17 PM | #22 |
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
Could be some bad plugs. Just because the plug is getting spark doesn't mean they are firing.
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03-02-2014, 08:56 PM | #23 | |
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
Quote:
Last edited by Y-Blockhead; 03-02-2014 at 09:04 PM. |
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03-02-2014, 09:41 PM | #24 |
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
Makes perfect sense if your rocker arms are worn. If there is any groove the feeler gauge is worthless.
Being that we have no idea about the condition, cam, etc. it would get you in the ballpark. Last edited by Tinker; 03-02-2014 at 09:49 PM. |
03-02-2014, 10:37 PM | #25 |
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
Even works on new rockers…
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03-03-2014, 09:13 AM | #26 |
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
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I haven't checked compression since I have adjusted the valves, but plan on doing that this evening. Also, I will do a dry and wet compression check to see if it's a piston ring issue. The first test I did was dry and the cylinders were all in the 110-128 range. At this point, I think that the problem is either the camshaft orientation or an issue with the rings. The motor looks like it's been rebuilt (I know that the heads have been), but that doesn't mean anything. Maybe the engine assembler installed the rings wrong, or maybe they are all stuck because the car has done a lot of sitting after its restoration. Or maybe it was only painted and not rebuilt. The fact that it needs so much advance makes me think that the timing set may have been installed wrong. A previous shop had pulled the timing cover to inspect this, but it's a foreign car shop, so their Y block experience is probably very limited. It could be they were looking to find the dots on the gears lined up at 6 & 12 o'clock like every other V8 that I've ever worked on. If I understand correctly, the dots on the gears should both be around 3:00 with 12 links between them. Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to keep those of you who have been helping me up to date. Thanks again, Bobby |
03-03-2014, 11:26 AM | #27 |
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Location: Howell, Michigan, USA, The Peoples Slightly Overspent Demodependancy of Michigan
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
sure the distributor vacuum diaphragm isn't cracked and/or not functioning? I would think you would see some spark advance response with the vacuum line on, and then disconnected. I had a Yblock in here a couple years ago where it ran like crap, and several shops tried to sell him a carb. It was a failed vacuum diaphragm in the distributor, and a well stretched timing chain.
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03-03-2014, 11:51 AM | #28 |
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
I haven't watched the timing advance with the advance disconnected, but will try that. Vacuum readings did not change with the distributor line disconnected. I don't like the poor fit of the rotor on top of the distributor shaft, but would assume that centrifugal force would keep it in the same position while the engine is running.
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03-03-2014, 01:09 PM | #29 |
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
theres a clip missing from your distributor where the rotor sits that keeps it tight.
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03-03-2014, 01:14 PM | #30 |
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
I don't remember seeing any clip. I wonder if it went away when they installed the Pertronix.
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03-03-2014, 02:04 PM | #31 |
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Location: St. Michael, Minnesota
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
Some vapor is normal at idle from your road draft tube. The reason you don't see it on newer engines is because they eat it. Its fed into the intake through the PCV. A modern PCV is easy to put on your engine after you are satisfied with its running.
Pertronix adjustment; the instructions on mine said the pickup coil should be set at .020 with a non magnetic feeler. I messed around the shop looking at stuff and settled on a double thickness of the clear plastic from a bubble wrapped part. Check NAPA to see about a new rotor and clip. New spark plugs are called for with your problems. I have the best luck with NGK brand, gapped about .030 to .035. To free up stuck rings, add a quart of ATF and go for a fifty mile ride and back at highway speeds. Change oil and filter to anything with 40 or higher as part of the number. |
03-03-2014, 02:06 PM | #32 |
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
Thanks Don. Here's a video of it running. The valves are not nearly as loud in person as they are in the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOMI_...ature=youtu.be |
03-03-2014, 03:40 PM | #33 |
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
Nice looking car and it sounds great. What are you running as far as mufflers?
Here is a vacuum gauge chart for you. |
03-03-2014, 03:52 PM | #34 |
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
Thanks. I haven't gotten as far as investigating what kind of mufflers are on it, but I do know that at least one of them is leaking...lol.
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03-03-2014, 05:26 PM | #35 |
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
I think that Mac's ford parts in Lockport NY. has that small dist. shaft clip. I just replaced my rotor and couldn't find one with the little button on the top contact tab like the original rotor had. My flat spot on my rotor was worn where it fits on the dist. shaft. A new rotor helped. Maybe you could borrow another good carb to see if the carb is your problem.
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03-03-2014, 05:50 PM | #36 |
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
Two things pop out of that movie, it idles like it has a fairly wild cam, that may be its best idle. Two; if you have adjusted the rockers, you may have worn rockers and will never get them quiet. Some machine shops may not know about refacing the rockers. There are movies on youtube showing how its done. One Y blocker I know made his own fixture to do his at home.
Another thought, the rocker clearance is written in the book as .019. My after market cam company says they can be looser, to mellow out the engine, or tighter, to add dwell duration and lift. It can go all the way from .012 on the tight side to .028 on the loose side. |
03-03-2014, 06:18 PM | #37 |
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
I agree with Sal, in that you probably have a carb issue. Apparently these carbs are fine if they are set up by someone that knows what they are doing, and I believe that Sal does. You also my want to check for a manifold to head leak, or carb to intake leak to explain the low vacuum reading. Bruce.
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03-03-2014, 08:24 PM | #38 | |
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
Quote:
I agree with Ole Don in that the exhaust sounds like it has a fairly stiff camshaft in it. That doesn't sound like a rough idle from not running good. It sounds like it's from cam overlap. If that is the case, it would explain the lower vacuum. More overlap will reduce manifold vacuum. However, if the engine actually runs rough or performs poorly, it could be other issues like the carb. |
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03-03-2014, 09:45 PM | #39 |
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
Well, tore off the front end and didn't find what i was hoping to find. The timing is oriented as it should be, so I guess that means it's the rings. I had been contemplating pulling the engine anyway to repair leaks and freshen up the restoration, so why it's out why not freshen up the engine so that I know what I have.
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03-03-2014, 10:08 PM | #40 |
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Re: Y Block Help Needed
Rings in relationship to compression?
My thoughts are: Fix the carb, adjust the valves or have your heads rebuild ( fluttering vacuum reading suggest valve guides or valves) i would do this before going for the rings. And if it turns out to need a full rebuild you will have a good carb and heads ready to bolt on. Just a thought. |
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