57 T Bird Dual Master cylinder converson

[farmerdick]

Hello, Considerating going to a dual master cylinder on my 57 T Bird. I have power brakes with stock 4 drum. I can do the swap with non-power brakes but it seams to be a bit more involved with power brakes. As you know the power unit is a stand alone in front of the master cylinder as stock. It would be very helpful to have a detailed routing of the brake lines and what parts and pieces i would need to purchase. What parts i would need to eliminate if thats the case.
I have read that a 67`Mustang dual master works well in this situation. Any and all help will be much appreciated.
Richard

[paul2748]

The TBird owners that go with disc brakes in the front and have the same power vac unit usually just plumb the front to the power vac. I assume this would work with all drum brakes too.

[KULTULZ]

I have read that a 67`Mustang dual master works well ...

DISC/DRUM MC.

There are several kits available to make the swap somewhat easy and safe. The front disc should be ran off the MIDLAND BOOSTER (only one pressure outlet) as it takes more line pressure to initiate them as compared to drum. The rear drums are self-energizing and will work well with the setup.

Stay away from GM STYLED BRAKE KITS as the calipers (offshore copies) are low drag and will require a unique GM MC which can be unsightly under the hood. You want (IMO) for the conversion to look as OEM as possible so as not to draw attention, especially on a BIRD.

There is also no need for a GM STYLE COMBINATION VALVE as they are dangerous. They are calibrated for a CHEV/GMC LIGHT TRUCK and defective in design and components.

You have 14" steel wheels on your BIRD?

[miker98038]

I don’t think you can run the power unit on the front only with all drums. Too much pressure to the front. It’s workable with front disc as they typically require more pressure, but even then some companies make allowances for the rear brakes (different wheel cylinders, proportioning valve). I’m not going to get involved in the merits of that solution.

They make remote boosters with separate front/rear circuits, and you’ll probably need something like that to go to a split system, all drum (or disc) without a firewall mount booster.

A typical vacuum booster doesn’t work on a bird because you can’t clear the hood latch. I’ve seen them done by relocating the brake pedal left into the clutch location (on cars with Fordo’s). Battery to the trunk, and whatever else is in the way.


I’m running 4 disc and using a hydro boost unit powered off the power steering pump. It’s a small unit, probably originally off those Oldsmobile diesel cars. They guy selling them worked with me to mill a custom adapter for the stock master mounts, and I’ve got a dual master in front. But that’s been nearly 20 years ago, and he’s long gone.

Short story, if there’s a simple answer for a dual master and power in a bird, I’m not aware of it.

Edit: K types faster than me. And I’m assuming you want to stay with the front drums.

[KULTULZ]

- READING COMPREHENSION 101 FAILURE -

Considerating going to a dual master cylinder on my 57 T Bird. I have power brakes with stock 4 drum. I can do the swap with non-power brakes but it seams to be a bit more involved with power brakes.

Disregard my previous post.

I really need to pay more attention to one's post.

You have the MIDLAND BOOSTER mounted on the left apron now, correct?

[KULTULZ]

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OK, let me try this again with the OP origional text in front of me ...

Considerating going to a dual master cylinder on my 57 T Bird. I have power brakes with stock 4 drum. I can do the swap with non-power brakes but it seams to be a bit more involved with power brakes. As you know the power unit is a stand alone in front of the master cylinder as stock. It would be very helpful to have a detailed routing of the brake lines and what parts and pieces i would need to purchase. What parts i would need to eliminate if thats the case.

I have read that a 67`Mustang dual master works well in this situation.

1) You are concerned with originality (appearance) somewhat and not wanting going to front disc?

2) Yes, you can do what you want. The trouble is if a diaphragm type booster is used, the battery must be relocated.

3) HYDRO-BOOST should allow you to retain the original battery position.

Read through the attached ARTICLE to help you along -

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/tech/...ydroboost.html

Get back and we can go into the details further.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by miker98038

I’m running 4 disc and using a hydro boost unit powered off the power steering pump. It’s a small unit, probably originally off those Oldsmobile diesel cars. They guy selling them worked with me to mill a custom adapter for the stock master mounts, and I’ve got a dual master in front. But that’s been nearly 20 years ago, and he’s long gone.

QUESTION :

Why was a GM style booster chosen, no room for a FORD take-off unit?

(You know how I am with non-FORD parts ... )

[miker98038]

Kultulz, how the hell did you find that post? It was so long ago I’d completely forgotten about it. The bird had the NZ valve covers with BC cast on the inside. They came off the bird and went on the roadster engine in 2005 or so.

Paul was a long time GM service technician, and probably a lot more familiar with the GM line up. I’m sure you recall what a great engine that Oldsmobile diesel was, and the supply of parts you could pull from a junkyard. Never did see one with an engine pulled, but everything else. Pretty small unit in those days when most of the hydro units were trucks and motorhomes, and a bit larger. Still works fine.