The Ford Barn

jim1932 · 10-21-2017, 11:31 AM

This starter was in a bunch of A stuff in my Dad's barn. it has the 3 holes for the starter cable, but whats with the big stud? Who refreshes these things. Would like to set it up as a spare.

Thanks

Charlie Stephens · 10-21-2017, 01:22 PM

I think I would skip the spare as they start so easy with the hand crank (or a slight hill). Have you tried hand cranking yours? My guess on the big stud is that someone was converting it over to use with a foot starter (late Model B's).

Charlie Stephens

jim1932 · 10-21-2017, 02:35 PM

yes, but I am not just going to pitch this one.

koates · 10-22-2017, 04:52 AM

Jim, you could fairly easily repair that starter motor. Dismantle and clean it out with solvent or engine cleaner spray can. New parts are easy to find, same as model A, bushes, brush set and a new copper main terminal stud. You can buy a model A Ford starter repair kit from Brattons or Snyders. Polish up the commutator but don't undercut the segments like is done on a generator. I did look and find about 5 different NOS pull cable starter switches on Ebay. Suppliers don't seem to have that pull cable type. That switch requires an insulator gasket under it which can be made or purchased. It may not even need the bushes and brushes replaced if they are not worn much. See how you go. Regards, Kevin.

Frank Miller · 10-22-2017, 06:20 AM

Yeah there's foot starters but maybe a push button solenoid setup.

DavidG · 10-22-2017, 08:33 AM

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With respect, no insulator gasket is used beneath a Model B cable operated starter switch. Such a gasket would have no effect given that the switch is attached with un-insulated screws directly into the starter motor's steel housing. What is insulated in the switch itself is the threaded insert where the cable from the battery attaches.

koates · 10-22-2017, 09:19 AM

David, with respect also having repaired some model B starters and many model A starters over the years I always fitted this insulator under the switch. My old boss used to do this. It had nothing to do with insulating the mounting screws or the metal switch housing but rather as a safeguard in case the switch contact strap came loose due to a loose or burnt connection on the main terminal stud which allowed the strap to touch the starter casing. Just a safeguard that's all. There are lots of old auto electrical tricks which were mostly only known in the trade which were not original fitment but improvements. Regards, Kevin.

Charlie Stephens · 10-22-2017, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frank Miller

Yeah there's foot starters but maybe a push button solenoid setup.

It wouldn't be a foot starter because it has the three holes for the cable switch. Also, I believe the cable attached to the bottom of the starter.

Charlie Stephens

DavidG · 10-22-2017, 03:44 PM

Charlie,

Right on both counts.

Dave

jim1932 · 11-13-2017, 12:32 PM

so is the stud likely to be screwed in? or Pressed in?

DavidG · 11-13-2017, 02:34 PM

It is surrounded by a fiber washer to insulate it from the case so it is not screwed in depending on who added it. Normally the starter motor studs have two nuts on the outer threaded portion, an outer one to retain the battery cable (in the case of an early B starter motor), and an inner oner to retain the stud in place in the case. Of course you have melt the solder in the wire connection underneath inside the case.

jim1932 · 11-13-2017, 02:42 PM

so I need to disassemble it to get to the nut inside?

DavidG · 11-13-2017, 03:14 PM

The nuts are on the outside of the case, but when you remove them you should be able to remove the stud from below (in the case), but likely you will have to disassemble the starter, at least to the extent of the armature, to have enough space to do the job. Besides, you don't want to risk of ruining the armature by dripping melted solder on it. (The brush on the other end of the wire is too big to pass through the hole in the case for the stud and its insulator.)

Kerk · 11-14-2017, 08:00 AM

Send it to Henry D. in Wilmington, Ma. Rebuilds Starters for many of the older ford cars. jmho.. kx

jim1932 · 11-14-2017, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kerk

Send it to Henry D. in Wilmington, Ma. Rebuilds Starters for many of the older ford cars. jmho.. kx

who?

redmodelt · 11-14-2017, 08:30 PM

The stud is soldered to to the buss bar that connects the field windings. If you have questions about this starter post in the Model A section.

10-21-2017, 01:22 PM	#2
Charlie Stephens Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 7,032	Re: 1932 B starter I think I would skip the spare as they start so easy with the hand crank (or a slight hill). Have you tried hand cranking yours? My guess on the big stud is that someone was converting it over to use with a foot starter (late Model B's). Charlie Stephens

10-21-2017, 02:35 PM	#3
jim1932 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Hancock, MA Posts: 2,781	Re: 1932 B starter yes, but I am not just going to pitch this one. __________________ Short URL: http://smu.gs/14g7eDW

10-22-2017, 04:52 AM	#4
koates Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Melbourne Australia. Posts: 2,079	Re: 1932 B starter Jim, you could fairly easily repair that starter motor. Dismantle and clean it out with solvent or engine cleaner spray can. New parts are easy to find, same as model A, bushes, brush set and a new copper main terminal stud. You can buy a model A Ford starter repair kit from Brattons or Snyders. Polish up the commutator but don't undercut the segments like is done on a generator. I did look and find about 5 different NOS pull cable starter switches on Ebay. Suppliers don't seem to have that pull cable type. That switch requires an insulator gasket under it which can be made or purchased. It may not even need the bushes and brushes replaced if they are not worn much. See how you go. Regards, Kevin.

10-22-2017, 06:20 AM	#5
Frank Miller Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Auburn, MA Posts: 2,106	Re: 1932 B starter Yeah there's foot starters but maybe a push button solenoid setup. __________________ “The technique of infamy is to start two lies at once and get people arguing heatedly over which is true.” ~ Ezra Pound

10-22-2017, 09:19 AM	#7
koates Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Melbourne Australia. Posts: 2,079	Re: 1932 B starter David, with respect also having repaired some model B starters and many model A starters over the years I always fitted this insulator under the switch. My old boss used to do this. It had nothing to do with insulating the mounting screws or the metal switch housing but rather as a safeguard in case the switch contact strap came loose due to a loose or burnt connection on the main terminal stud which allowed the strap to touch the starter casing. Just a safeguard that's all. There are lots of old auto electrical tricks which were mostly only known in the trade which were not original fitment but improvements. Regards, Kevin.

10-22-2017, 03:44 PM	#9
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: 1932 B starter Charlie, Right on both counts. Dave

11-13-2017, 12:32 PM	#10
jim1932 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Hancock, MA Posts: 2,781	Re: 1932 B starter so is the stud likely to be screwed in? or Pressed in? __________________ Short URL: http://smu.gs/14g7eDW

11-13-2017, 02:34 PM	#11
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: 1932 B starter It is surrounded by a fiber washer to insulate it from the case so it is not screwed in depending on who added it. Normally the starter motor studs have two nuts on the outer threaded portion, an outer one to retain the battery cable (in the case of an early B starter motor), and an inner oner to retain the stud in place in the case. Of course you have melt the solder in the wire connection underneath inside the case.

11-13-2017, 02:42 PM	#12
jim1932 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Hancock, MA Posts: 2,781	Re: 1932 B starter so I need to disassemble it to get to the nut inside? __________________ Short URL: http://smu.gs/14g7eDW

11-13-2017, 03:14 PM	#13
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: 1932 B starter The nuts are on the outside of the case, but when you remove them you should be able to remove the stud from below (in the case), but likely you will have to disassemble the starter, at least to the extent of the armature, to have enough space to do the job. Besides, you don't want to risk of ruining the armature by dripping melted solder on it. (The brush on the other end of the wire is too big to pass through the hole in the case for the stud and its insulator.)

11-14-2017, 08:00 AM	#14
Kerk Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 642	Re: 1932 B starter Send it to Henry D. in Wilmington, Ma. Rebuilds Starters for many of the older ford cars. jmho.. kx

11-14-2017, 08:30 PM	#16
redmodelt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland OR Posts: 6,341	Re: 1932 B starter The stud is soldered to to the buss bar that connects the field windings. If you have questions about this starter post in the Model A section. __________________ I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!