52 Mercomatic

[RalphG]

Just wondering if there is any information available on adjustment or the proper setting for the rod running from the throttle linkage down to the transmission on the left side of engine on the 52 Mercomatic. On a recent road test running the quarter mile with a heavy foot I could not get it to shift up in D until I let up on the gas pedal. Yet the engine was not revving too high nor was my speed very high. No working speedometer but I'm guessing 40 mph?
At low throttle application it shifts up quite normally in D.

[4t8v8]

I could be wrong but on later Ford automatics that rod is a kick down rod. It may be set wrong. Disconnect it and see if it solves the problem. However, the valve body and governor should overcome that rod at full throttle. I have a lot of experience with later Ford-O-Matics and C4's but never worked on a earlier Merc-O-Matic. You may want for someone with a little more knowledge than me to jump in here.

[paul2748]

Check a shop manual or a Motor's Manual for the adjustment of the kick-down rod. I don't know if that is your problem, but proper adjustment will rule that out.

[RalphG]

Originally Posted by paul2748

Check a shop manual or a Motor's Manual for the adjustment of the kick-down rod. I don't know if that is your problem, but proper adjustment will rule that out.

I know a guy that might have a motors manual with some adjustment info. It just seems like the engine won't wind up like it should when I have the pedal to the floor in D. Ran a whole quarter mile tonight without shifting up until I let up on the gas pedal. I know these cars were never fast but this one seems really slow and sluggish.

[51 MERC-CT]

There is a special gauge that is required to adjust according to the manual. (doubt if you will find one)
In lieu of that, at the clevis fork, loosen the lock nut and remove the pin.
Turn the fork 1/2 turn in (clockwise to shorten) rod.
Re-assemble (don't have to tighten lock nut at this point)
Road test to check.
If no improvement then do the same procedure again, 1/2 turn at a time.
Continue procedure until a maximum of two (2) turns have been reached.
If no improvement then return to original starting point, 2 turns back.
Now do the same procedure only 1/2 turn at a time, counter clockwise, out to lengthen rod.

[RalphG]

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Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT

There is a special gauge that is required to adjust according to the manual. (doubt if you will find one)
In lieu of that, at the clevis fork, loosen the lock nut and remove the pin.
Turn the fork 1/2 turn in (clockwise to shorten) rod.
Re-assemble (don't have to tighten lock nut at this point)
Road test to check.
If no improvement then do the same procedure again, 1/2 turn at a time.
Continue procedure until a maximum of two (2) turns have been reached.
If no improvement then return to original starting point, 2 turns back.
Now do the same procedure only 1/2 turn at a time, counter clockwise, out to lengthen rod.

Thanks for the image. It sounds like trial and error will be my method.

[4t8v8]

The way I've always done it:
Drive the car and floor the accelerator at around 35 - 40 MPH. If it kicks down, good.
Try it again at over 55 MPH. The governor should over ride the manual kick down and it shouldn't kick down.
If it needs a lot of adjustment I shorten the rod 1/2 turn until it won't kick down at all. Then lengthen it 1/2 turn at a time until it kicks down at the proper throttle setting. If this doesn't correct your problem something else is wrong. I would suspect the governor. It can be worked on without removing the trans.

[34PKUP]

Originally Posted by 4t8v8

The way I've always done it:
Drive the car and floor the accelerator at around 35 - 40 MPH. If it kicks down, good.
Try it again at over 55 MPH. The governor should over ride the manual kick down and it shouldn't kick down.
If it needs a lot of adjustment I shorten the rod 1/2 turn until it won't kick down at all. Then lengthen it 1/2 turn at a time until it kicks down at the proper throttle setting. If this doesn't correct your problem something else is wrong. I would suspect the governor. It can be worked on without removing the trans.

Suggest you re-read the original post that says, " On a recent road test running the quarter mile with a heavy foot I could not get it to shift up in D until I let up on the gas pedal. "
It won't shift up.

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by 34PKUP

Suggest you re-read the original post that says, " On a recent road test running the quarter mile with a heavy foot I could not get it to shift up in D until I let up on the gas pedal. "
It won't shift up.

Yep' that's the way I read it.
The throttle rod adjustment not only controls the kick down but also controls when to kick up to Drive.

[4t8v8]

I read the post just fine. He asked how to adjust the rod. I told him what the rod was for and answered his question on adjusting said rod. I also went on to tell him how if that did not work the governor could be at fault as could the valve body. Merely possibilities. If answering his question he asked about adjusting the rod was reading wrong you have my humble apology.

[1942deluxe]

Ralph, I think the is a thread on the www.earlyford.org forum of what you are looking for. Google "Manzel 77230 FA tool" and the thread will come up. If that gauge(tool) is
what you need I have one. It was for a 53 Ford but I would think the Mercury what be the same set up.

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by 1942deluxe

Ralph, I think the is a thread on the www.earlyford.org forum of what you are looking for. Google "Manzel 77230 FA tool" and the thread will come up. If that gauge(tool) is
what you need I have one. It was for a 53 Ford but I would think the Mercury what be the same set up.

These are Kent-Moore gauges. Which one do you have?

[RalphG]

That Manzel 7723FA tool looks simple enough but I'd need an instruction manual how to use it. I was hoping it was something simple as the GM TH 350 cable adjustment. I've done that one before.
Don't get me wrong. I can live with the performance as is for the type of driving I do at present. Just don't want to be causing damage to the transmission if this adjustment is very important. Yes, kickdown seems to work as it was meant to but that up shift just does not happen unless I let up on the gas pedal. Seems like the engine has hit maximum revs (and I'm sure it hasn't) and it won't pick up any more speed. Maybe I need to check my throttle plate opening and linkage adjustment there too.
I even searched for a how to video on youtube but found nothing on adjusting the Mercomatic.

[4t8v8]

Just though I'd mention the governor takes over at 55 and shifts the trans into drive no matter what the throttle position is. If you were under 55 it wouldn't do it. If it is kicking down you are ok with that rod. Won't hurt a thing.

[1942deluxe]

51 MERC-CT, I have the Ford O matic one.

[40 Deluxe]

If yu have the original trans, that rod is NOT a kickdown rod. It goes to the throttle valve in the trans which regulates line pressure according to throttle opening. If you have a later trans, it will have a vacuum modulator and then the rod only serves as a kickdown. If no modulator, the rod is the only control for shift speeds.
To test, start out in 'L' (manual low) and at 25 or so shift into 'D'. As soon as the trans shifts into second, pull the shift lever back into low. This will make the trans hold 2nd gear as long as you want. This way you will get a feel for how the engine performs at higher revs, just as if the trans were shifting into "passing gear" as it should.

[flathead4rd]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

If yu have the original trans, that rod is NOT a kickdown rod. It goes to the throttle valve in the trans which regulates line pressure according to throttle opening. If you have a later trans, it will have a vacuum modulator and then the rod only serves as a kickdown. If no modulator, the rod is the only control for shift speeds.
To test, start out in 'L' (manual low) and at 25 or so shift into 'D'. As soon as the trans shifts into second, pull the shift lever back into low. This will make the trans hold 2nd gear as long as you want. This way you will get a feel for how the engine performs at higher revs, just as if the trans were shifting into "passing gear" as it should.

Yep, That's the way we used to do it with the fordomatic. Works good.

[Keystone 34 3w]

If you do not have the original carburetor, you will have issues adjusting that rod.

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by Keystone 34 3w

If you do not have the original carburetor, you will have issues adjusting that rod.

Nonsense, I am currently running an Edelbrock 4bbl. and prior to that a Holley 390. There weren't any, and are not now, any "issues" adjusting the rod in relation to whatever carburetor is being used.

[RalphG]

Originally Posted by Keystone 34 3w

If you do not have the original carburetor, you will have issues adjusting that rod.

As far as I know this car is all original. Did not get a chance to try any adjustment on the carb to trans rod today. I had some help and we worked on bleeding the brakes. I now have four wheel brakes that hold on the first application of the pedal. Something the car has not had for over 40 years.