Slant Windshield Wooden Header Replacement

[California Charlie]

Hi All,

I'm going to replace all the top wood on my '31 Slant Windshield 4 Door and wondering, once all the old wood is removed, is there an easier way to install the wooden header without the metal cutting and re-welding of the window pillar sides.

Thanks in advance to all who reply to my question.

[Oldbluoval]

The header cover is welded in spots and has to come off
So, no.

[Bick in New Zealand]

When I did the wood in the Victoria, a friend had done his header previously, and made them in two pieces, so that they could be fitted, after welding. It worked out really well. Of course Murray was just interested in getting them out the door, so you will find charred wood from the welding , during body construction. Hopefully Spider may chip in and add some further comments.

[California Charlie]

Originally Posted by Bick in New Zealand

When I did the wood in the Victoria, a friend had done his header previously, and made them in two pieces, so that they could be fitted, after welding. It worked out really well. Of course Murray was just interested in getting them out the door, so you will find charred wood from the welding , during body construction. Hopefully Spider may chip in and add some further comments.

Thank you.

I was just thinking that there must somehow be a better way to accomplish this without the metal cutting and welding.

Do you know if there are any repair manual chapters dedicted to this situation?

[Bick in New Zealand]

Give Spider (Richard) https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/member.php?u=1954 a private message, I'm sure he will be able to give you some further information.

[edzaha]

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The only cutting and rewelding is a very short section on each side of the metal header panel Cut carefully install the header, and when you go to weld put some steel behind the weld area to keep the heat from burning the wood. Weld in short bursts.

[Oldbluoval]

Edzaha- agreed 100%. I’d be skeptical of other posts urging header in pieces.
I would us some copper or brass behind the tack welds so it likely wouldn’t stick and leave the slug to get out

[Jerry in Shasta]

I had the same issue with my S/W I cut the welds with a thin Dermal cut off wheel. Before installing the wood I "tinned the area with a low temperature brass rod. I work the cut area metal to bring the gap ends close together. I then hit the tinned area with the torch for about two seconds. The tinned brass flowed across the cut. Yes.. the wood was discolored but not burned.

[California Charlie]

Thanks to all that responded to my question.

I tried contacting Spider as suggested, but I did not get a reply back.

Does anyone have a picture, or pictures, showing exactly where those metal cuts arre made?

I don't want to cut more than is necessary.

I'm certain that I'm not the only one who has founf themselves in this situation,

[edzaha]

You should be able to see where the spots are after you take all the nails out. They are on both sides of the metal header and are about half an inch long

[podiatristwood]

Find a wooden header with ends that can be wrapped around the pillars to fill in the spaces. The width or inclusion of trim pieces in some cases allows for greater coverage. To cover the empty space between the pillars, use beautiful wooden trim pieces. There won't be any substantial adjustments needed.