Same Clutch noise problem after third assembly and a lot of archive searches

[FlatheadV8Mike]

I am with you. I just remounted the starter and push started the car- still there an getting worse! What do you think about the measured crankshaft play - ok or bad?
Thanks again..

[JSeery]

I would go with flatheadmurre advice, you need to check behind the flywheel anyway. You can check the mounting bolt length and any indication of rubbing.

[Ggmac]

Can you get an inspection endoscope camera in the space behind the flywheel ?

[cadillac512]

Originally Posted by FlatheadV8Mike

I am with you. I just remounted the starter and push started the car- still there an getting worse! What do you think about the measured crankshaft play - ok or bad?
Thanks again..

The end play at .17mm (.0068") is fine. Do you have an older style flywheel on your later (1950) engine? If so, that will rub. The later "8BA" type flywheels have more clearance in the rear for the later block. The early flywheels have closed-end bolt holes where the pressure plate bolts on...late flywheels are drilled all the way through. That may help you identify what you have.


Terry

[flatheadmurre]

Thinking a bit more about it...there are different starter plates...more or less press in...mixing a car one with a truck pan...or which way it was gives you issues.
Start by taking the starter plate down...can be done in the car by loosening bellhousing bolts.

[FlatheadTed]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

As Deuce and others said ,If the noise comes and goes at the touch of a finger then I would think its got to be something to do with the Thrust bearing or the arm ,A John Deer bearing I would say will not do it i must be pressed onto the boss so its solid ,Get a correct Ford one from the venders .so its not rattling around, take it out (the Box ) and use a wire brush on a drill and spin the bearing and try and duplicate the noise . Ted

[JSeery]

There was a recent thread on TO bearing quality that might be worth reviewing.

[FlatheadV8Mike]

Hi all, thanks again for your ideas and hints.
I am happy it is not the crankshaft play - puuh.
Now I will go step by step. Starter is out of the car.
So the plate will be next.
I will look for photos I did last time to show you the flexplate.
We will work this out together - I have to fix it.
Love this car toooo much.
Till soon my friends.

[FlatheadV8Mike]

Hi all,
I found the problem.
Guess what it was in the end...?
The gear ring of the flywheel has moved over 7 mm into block direction. Not the whole diameter, only about a quarter.
So it rubbed with the teeth on the edge of the block and mostly on the starter plate!!!
Please see the pictures in the attachment.
So this is way it was different after each start. Sometimes more and sometimes less.
Also if the crankshaft moved only the 0.006 inch while touching the clutch pedal it rubbed on the plate and Block edge.
Soooo happy it was not the Crankshaft or something else!!
I hammered it back to the old position and will spot weld the gear ring to theflywheel at 8 points in diameter.
What do you think about that?
Thanks again for all your hints, recommendations and efforts you had.
Hope this thread helps someone in future to fix this problem, which started as a clutch problem...

[JSeery]

Way to go, you figured it out!

[alanwoodieman]

the weirdest things happen with flatheads--always something odd and new to the world of flathead

[Ronnie]

Loctite 680 could also be a thought. Would certainly make a removal easier than spot welds. It has the properties that will work.



R

[flatheadmurre]

Good work sorting it out !

[cadillac512]

Yes, well done! The welds will keep it located and can be ground away if ever needed.

[Mac VP]

You should have it balanced after making your repair to it. It’s very likely that the flywheel will not be in balance after welding the ring gear. Then have it balanced with the clutch pressure plate attached.

There are two ring gears for the flathead V8’s.......the 1932-48 version and the 1949-53 version. There are subtle differences relating to the inside diameter and the thickness. Just wondering if you have a mismatch on your flywheel. Normally, a new ring gear is a very tight fit to the flywheel.

[FlatheadTed]

Good work ,the ring gear and the fly wheel are dissimilar metals so a special rod will be needed .

[Lawrie]

How are you going to weld the steel ring gear to the cast iron flywheel?
Lawrie

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by Lawrie

How are you going to weld the steel ring gear to the cast iron flywheel?
Lawrie

The answer is . . . "probably not" . . . or it won't last if he does (will crack). I wouldn't even do it with NiRod.

Before you do anything, I'd make dang sure I have the right ring-gear for your flywheel - my guess is that if you get the right ring-gear, that it would fit very tight and you'll have to do nothing.

I've never had to do what you're talking about doing . . . but Hey, with these old Flatheads, just about anything is possible!.

[flatheadmurre]

The Subtle difference between early and late is like 1/2" so getting the wrong one on is not likely...
Drill and tap 3 set screws in the splitline and you be good to go...keeps it in place and prevents rotation.

[Tinker]

Why would you weld a ring gear? get a new one. Only torque factor on the ring gear is starter. Guess you could tack it. Just curious?


End play of the crank should be minimum on a new rebuild. .006 is great.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ndplay.669075/


.