Interesting bore dimensions

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

I'd agree with you as far as consistency goes --> same locations, widths, etc.. which is much harder to do in a consistent fashion using multiple stones, but Jeff Fowler believes that when it comes to final seat sealing surface quality, that stones will be as good or better than carbide (depending on who is doing them).

With that said, seat machines like a Serdi sure speed up the whole valve job process in a big way.

If I was going to have a knee or hip replaced, I sure wouldn't want one that had been finish ground instead of machined.

[GB SISSON]

As I have a complete Sioux and complete B&D valve seat grinding aparatus with maybe 30 good stones each, There is no question on how it will be done here. I'm going to assume that Les, over in the machine shop will dress the newly installed hard seats with his equipment before I pick it up. For the time being I'm looking at a couple of the blocks that are good candidates for shop overhaul. That's why I'd like the ability to replace a failed valve seat. I have a jailbar tonner chassis that someone cut the rear frame rails short, some half-decent cabs, lots of nice front fenders, a wrecker boom some hillbilly made from model A frame rails, a 5 ton hand crank winch, basically everything I need to make a 'junkyard dog' wrecker for use on my ten acres. Picture the oxy-atcetylene set behind the cab.... Hope to get started next Fall for a winter project. Of course it will need a V8 so I will pick a block and use all this new to me tooling and build something. All of that will have to wait on the woodie engine/trans swap out. Something makes me want to consider a 9" for the rear, specially if I go with a T-5

[Ol' Ron]

Interesting: I've rum 1.72 valves in a numberof engines, mostly race engines. However, I did do this to a 258 stock engine with EAB cam in a 59 block with EAB heads sa well. IT ran verywell had power up to 5k, shuta used a bigger cam. Wonder where it is today?
Gramps

[51504bat]

GB

Seems like you need one of these:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-bandsaw.html


new forum member here. I don't own a Ford lol. I have a 1930's Yates American Y30 Snowflake bandsaw. It has a brake and the shoe has "Ford " stamped on it. It looks just like one that is forsale on ebay. The ebay one is 225 bucks. Is that going rate? Or would i be better off searching elsewhere? Mine works but has been repaired. Any advice is appreciated.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 51504bat

GB

Seems like you need one of these:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-bandsaw.html


new forum member here. I don't own a Ford lol. I have a 1930's Yates American Y30 Snowflake bandsaw. It has a brake and the shoe has "Ford " stamped on it. It looks just like one that is forsale on ebay. The ebay one is 225 bucks. Is that going rate? Or would i be better off searching elsewhere? Mine works but has been repaired. Any advice is appreciated.

[Ggmac]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

PERFECT! Exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks so much for all this. I just came up from the 'Wannabe machine shop with training wheels', and my wife (best wife ever) served me a hot lunch. Now I'm going to scour these videos. I am also very fortunate to have the Ford pilots for both my B&D seat grinder and another for my Sioux seat cutter and grinder setups. The two pilots don't interchange as the Sioux is larger. You can see the Sioux has only one taper that indexes onto the guide area. It still seems solid, but not like the B&D double job. Now for a bonus, last weeks lathe haulback also netted a quick coupled T handle for removing the B&D pilot. I have done two engines with that pilot and was always confounded by the effort to unstick it. I took to tapping it out from underneath. Everything else in that haul was Sioux andb the T handle won't fit them. OK, it's movie time. Thanks again in advance. Gary

Could you please give me the part number off of the black & Decker Ford pilot?
I’ve been using an old 50s- 60s shop made pilot with my B&D set up . Its worked okay but wasnt hardened so after all these years , it’s starting to show its age .
I’ve knurled it for the last block but really need an original.
Thank you, Gary

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by Ggmac

Could you please give me the part number off of the black & Decker Ford pilot?
I’ve been using an old 50s- 60s shop made pilot with my B&D set up . Its worked okay but wasnt hardened so after all these years , it’s starting to show its age .
I’ve knurled it for the last block but really need an original.
Thank you, Gary

B&D-VD
14155
Made in USA
1.030-1.0335

VD being VanDorn. The whole kit is identical to the B&D, box and all. Only difference is the name on the tag of the driver. And Tim, after working wood full time for 52 years the woodworking tools no longer call to me. Well maybe THAT saw. Super Cool.

[Ggmac]

Thank you , now to ebay ....
Gary

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by Ggmac

Thank you , now to ebay ....
Gary

If you can't find one just grab a length of 1" re-bar like this guy did. Amazing what they do in 3rd world countries, but note two things... First is this guy's hands. Appears that every finger has been smashed in some way or other and next is how he built up the valve seat with weld. Isn't that one of the methods used to loosen up a seat for removal? My thinking is the seat with all that weld becomes semi-molten, accepts the size/shape of the un-yielding counterbore, then cools and shrinks, aiding removal. Just afraid this poor guy is gonna drop that seat pulling a long grade in with an overload after all this otherwise rather impressive work. Yes, it's dead of winter and at 5am valve work videos are less depressing than the local Seattle news.
https://youtu.be/NQDa2642EW0

[Ggmac]

Well I think it was Ol Ron that said “ when you don’t have money you make some good parts “ or something like that . We have a cold front going through, was 60* this morning, had to wear a long sleeve shirt ! Our local news is the same as yours . Depressing.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by Ggmac

Well I think it was Ol Ron that said “ when you don’t have money you make some good parts “ or something like that . We have a cold front going through, was 60* this morning, had to wear a long sleeve shirt ! Our local news is the same as yours . Depressing.

Strange... We have a warm front going through, was 60* this morning. No jacket, just a vest over my long sleve shirt.

[flatford8]

It only got to about 25* here today…… it ain’t just the news that’s depressing ……Mark

[GB SISSON]

Just got off the phone with Les at the machine shop. I had a few questions for him and we also discussed balancing the rotating assembly. So now I'm considering getting on the ferry with the crank and pulley, he has the flywheel already. So it looks like I'm in that situation of "well it's already apart and at the shop, might as well get it balanced". Oh well, it Does make sense to do it now. IIRC the flywheel is drilled for 10" clutch, which I don't have yet.

[38 coupe]

If you are going to get things balanced find a good 10" pressure plate and take it with you. Have the flywheel and pressure plate balanced together. Our flathead V8s are internally balanced, the flywheel can be balanced separately from the crankshaft.

[Bored&Stroked]

There is no reason to NOT balance the engine - so now is the time. On the flywheel/clutch, they should each be neutral balanced and then checked together as an assembly. The balancer will then mark on the flywheel/clutch how to assemble them (paint marks and/or punch marks on both) to replicate the setup/indexing on the balance machine.

I balance every engine I've ever built - going back 50 years or so.

Maybe contact Mac VanPelt and see what he has for 10" clutches.

[Ol' Ron]

Never balanced many of my engines, for several reasons. Back in the day there were very few places where you could have the assembly balanced, second : took forever and cost a fortune around 200 bucks. built allot of engines includinf Mopar 383/ 440 and a few 392 hemis. Only one of the stockcar engines took 6 months to get the assy back. and most people didn't bothereither. as for the flathead, The cranlassy was well balanced at the factory. Piston weight isn't very important.However I did use a Shafer alum clutck and flywheel flywheel was marked wher the clutch went on.. Bvill engine was balanced.
I don't think the adverage 258/276 street engine built from an existing engine is necessary. And last but not least the factory rebuilt engine are not balanced, Not at the patterson NJ planr!!!!??
Gramps