Not the usual Oil Leak

[mrraford]

My pickup has decided that it needs to leak oil. The offending orifice is not the rear main however and I need advice on a cure.
It appears that my engine is leaking from the front around the crank. What approach to the experienced folks here have for treating that? Are there modern seals to replace the rope seals and do they work? Is the cause perhaps a worn pulley shaft?
Would folks care to opine about frequent causes of such a problem? I haven't put the wrench to the engine as yet and wanted to discuss the matter first.
thanks

[Art Newland]

I've only installed just one front seal, and used the original style rope seal. Was about 5 months ago and the engine only has 100 miles on it since then but hasn't leaked a drop. They are not that hard to do, Tom W. has excellent instructions, slightly different technique than Ford. If you needed to remove the pan for a look-see anyway, you should give it a try.

[Fullraceflathead]

I would try the new one piece Neoprene front seal.

[duke36]

had bad experience with the modern seals front and rear; also interested in others' experiences.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Just one (1) method learned (60) years ago:

1. Remove old rope or seal.

2. Set "dry", non-oiled rope in upper & lower metal crevices with "Permatex No. 2, Non-Hardening Sealer".

3. Grease top & bottom contact surfaces of rope that contact rotating crankshaft.

4. Rope swells as new oil enters "dry" rope and will seal the front for at least 60 years with no leaks.

[Art Newland]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

H.L.'s method is what I used.

[George Miller]

Rope seals work real well. You just got to put them in right. In the 50 and 60ts most cars used rope seals on the rear main. They were not prone to leaks. I can not say the same about the new neoprene seals.

[sofield]

Thread #5 is right on. I do one additional step. After replacing the seal I take a small oil pump can and squirt oil down on the shaft & seal for a couple of weeks before I start the car each time You don't want that seal to get slick and hard then it won't absorb any oil and will in time leak

[Railcarmover]

you sure it isnt the front main bearing bolts/nuts?

[Purdy Swoft]

Other reasons not to use the modern seal is . When the modern seal needs to be replaced , the oil pan , timing cocer and the front crank shaft pulley will all have to be removed. the shank of the crankshaft pulley will need to be perfectly smooth or it will quickly wear out the new seal . If the shank of the pulley shows any wear it will need to be replaced or there will be leaks . I prefer the rope seal. The rope seal is much more forgiving and lasts a long time if properly installed .

[Marshall V. Daut]

Besides what's been posted so far, inspect the front timing gear cover for cracks around the bolt holes, especially the lower ones. I had a pesky leak in my 1928 Phaeton from Day One since the engine rebuild that couldn't be fixed by installing new pan gaskets in that area or new upper lower donut seals. I gooped each bolt, too, thinking oil was escaping past the threads on the bolts. Even the pulley was changed, although the wear was not enough to cause the frustrating kind of leakage the engine was dripping out.
Finally, after the umpteenth time that I removed the front timing gear cover, I noticed a crack emanating from the lowest bolt hole on passenger's side (right side) of the engine. Sure enough! I could see where the oil had been coming out from that crack. When the casting became hot as the engine was run, the crack most certainly opened up more, allowing an increase of oil leakage. I am guessing someone in the last 90 years overtightened the bolts to cure a similar front end leaking problem, but only ended up breaking the casting. A replacement front timing gear cover solved the problem.
Don't rule this out just because it's a rarity. Nothing obvious ever happens to my cars. It's always the freak, unexpected things that bite me in the butt.
Marshall
P.S. Also be sure too goop up the front engine mount bolt on the right side! The timing gear cover is threaded completely through so that oil can work its way past the bolt threads and run along top of the oil pan lip. This could be confused with leakage from the pulley seal. Check it out and apply goop if needed.

[zzlegend]

Since this thread is almost 9 months old,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,i wonder what happened to the original poster and if he fixed his leak?
My 2 1/2 cents is, I use rope seals also.

[Marshall V. Daut]

Well, out of date as this thread may be (I hadn't noticed!), at least some useful information has been posted for those interested in fixing THEIR oil leak up front. So, the space and effort have not been wasted.
Yes, it would have been nice if the OP had posted his findings and whether the suggestions worked. Maybe he did in a different thread?
Marshall