New guy with Model A Chassis and engine

[Brad1929]

Greetings forum members,

New guy here, posting for the first time. I recently picked up these parts for $200 and now I'm trying to figure out what year it is. The previous owner was thinking 1929.

The # on the engine is *132811778* . That seems like too many numbers, but I'm almost 100% sure that's what it reads. How can it be more than 7 digits ?

The frame appears to read *AA3007846* . Amazingly, I was able to read these numbers quite clearly with some sandpaper, chalk and a magnifying glass.

With no body, I'm not starting with much, but I would like to bring this car back to life. Is it worth it ? If so, where do I start ? Thanks.

[Simonpie]

That looks like a great parts deal for $200, but way too far from a car to use as a starting point.
Since no-one has mentioned yet, your loose spring looks to be under tension by one bolt. They don't fail often, but when they do it hits hard. Consider throwing a few wraps of chain around it, then loosening the tension until you're ready to use it.

[31Tudor]

Make a speedster!

[Charlie Stephens]

It might be a good start for a speedster but it would be a money pit if you want a complete car. If you pay more money up front you will get it back in the long run.

Charlie Stephens

[Rowdy]

I am betting the frame is A4, not AA. AA would mean large truck. Rod

[Brad1929]

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Originally Posted by Rowdy

I am betting the frame is A4, not AA. AA would mean large truck. Rod

It may be "A4" , these two digits are very near to the body mount hole and hard to read. The number stamping seems sloppy on both the engine and the body. Shouldn't there be only a maximum of 7 digits plus the stars ? Why do I have so many digits on the engine ?
Looking at the production chart, it seems like something here may be a 1930.

[Jim Huseby]

Welcome. Model A's are a lot of fun and easy to get hooked on. If you have the drive to take on the challenges and satisfaction to restore your chassis, before you're done with that, you're likely to know just what body you want, and what colors you want the body and interior. The fastest, easiest, most fun and least frustrating way to the finish line is to purchase the best manuals and guidelines available. I recommend "Model A Judging Standards", MikesAfordable catalog, "The Legendary Model A Ford' and Les Andrews' "Model A Ford Mechanic's Handbook" for starters.
www.olympic-speedsters.com

[Jwilli]

Could the engine # have been restamped when the engine was rebuilt? The 3007846 number is March 1930.

[1930artdeco]

Welcome Brad,

I have seen pictures of what people started with and some were even less than that. The main questions are as follows:

1) what is your skill level?
2) how much money do you have to dump into this project?
3) how much time to do you have to invest in this project?
4) do you have the tools and space?
5) what kind of car do you want? Touring, parade, kids, grandkids etc..

In the end, my opinion is keep these as spares and buy a car already driveable. That way you get to learn about the Model A (assuming you are new tot he hobby) and have some fun. Just don't want you to get frustrated.

Mike

[Tom Wesenberg]

"The # on the engine is *132811778*"

What looks like a "1" may be a poorly stamped "A", making your number 32811778.
You have a later frame because the front crossmember has the hole for the radiator overflow pipe. I see your frame has the early style parking brake shaft, so use these two clues to date it. Probably an early 1930 frame.

[700rpm]

$200? I'd buy that in a minute. Most guys restore the chassis and running gear first, and you've got a good entry point there. Go slowly, watch for a good body to become available, and rebuild the chassis in the interim. You'll spend more money than you expect, but this is a hobby, and most hobbies take some cash. Don't believe me? Take up golf and watch the money fly away!

[bikejunk]

did this come with a title ? looks like a fun speedster project when you pin it together you will get a good idea of what's missing from a running chaise .

[Dave Mellor NJ]

Forged fender braces are 28-29

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Dave Mellor NJ

Forged fender braces are 28-29

also;
In January 1930, a new forged design bracket
mounted with three 3/8” diameter bolts was
introduced.
• In April 1930, front fender brackets made of
stamped steel were adopted.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Thanks Mike. Looking at the wide curve and possible 3 bolt mount I think the brackets fit the early 1930 time period. The shock covers also look like they would fit that time period.

[Sunnybrook Farm]

You got a good deal. It would be a good learning experience to get the motor running but if course it could have lots of problems and could get expensive. There are often model A bodies for sale on craigslist if you search around the country to find them. It would be a lot easier to find a more complete car as there are lots of low end ones on craigslist that are projects or barn finds. You would have a lot of parts to help get one going. It just depends on what you want, there is a lot of fun just getting what you have running.

[Rowdy]

There were forged braces in 30-31 also. Rod

[Mikeinnj]

Originally Posted by Brad1929

Greetings forum members,

New guy here, posting for the first time. I recently picked up these parts for $200 and now I'm trying to figure out what year it is. The previous owner was thinking 1929.

The # on the engine is *132811778* . That seems like too many numbers, but I'm almost 100% sure that's what it reads. How can it be more than 7 digits ?

The frame appears to read *AA3007846* . Amazingly, I was able to read these numbers quite clearly with some sandpaper, chalk and a magnifying glass.

With no body, I'm not starting with much, but I would like to bring this car back to life. Is it worth it ? If so, where do I start ? Thanks.

For starters, here are some of the things you will need to bring the car back to life:

Engine rebuild..............$ 3500.00
Repro body................... 7000.00
Repro Fenders............... 2000.00
Repro hood................... 500.00
Radiator....................... 500.00
Upholstery................... 1700.00

That's $13,700.00 to start not to mention paint,lights,horn,glass,top kit,running boards/shields,trans gears/bearings,differential rebuild and a title etc.

So ask yourself "Is it worth it?"....of course you could spend an eternity at flea markets to try and find less expensive components to lower the total cost of the project but in reality you would be better off spending that money on a solid, running well restored Model A and enjoy using it.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I see the rear drums are also the later style.

I'd soak the cylinders with diesel or penetrating oil, then pry on the flywheel teeth to see if it turns over. If it turns over, then I'd go ahead with trying to get the engine started.

[ar2stp48]

I tried this approach with a model T build years ago; it turned into a money pit quickly. When I had a running chassis; it sold

There is a '30 tudor body --no motor or transmission--on the bay currently in KY; bid is still low. Number is # 51572513668