Outsmarting the smart battery charger / maintainer

[David in San Antonio]

The popular Deltran "6 or 12 volt 4 amp battery charger and maintainer" checks the battery for some nominal voltage before it lets the charging circuit energize. If below the predetermined threshhold it presumes the battery may have a damaged cell and won't charge it. I left my dash light on overnight which drew down the new 6 volt Ultima to the point that the charger wouldn't cooperate.

Solution: I used jumper cables to hook up a fully charged 6 volt battery in parallel with the dead one, (+ to +, and - to -) and hooked the charger to one of them. The charger "saw" enough voltage to allow the electrons to flow. A few hours later the formerly dead battery was charged, and the good one was still charged.

I hope this is helpful.

In the spirit of full disclosure, this was the THIRD time I ran the battery down to ~zero. It's my first Model A and, well, I'm a slow learner. The first two times a club member loaned me his old "not smart" Craftsman charger which just pushes the electrons out when you switch it on. It's up to you to watch the meter and shut it off before the battery is boiled dry.

[SDJason]

Have you thought about installing a battery cutoff switch (and making it part of your routine to turn it off when done with the car for the day)?

[David in San Antonio]

Yes, a cutoff switch is definitely on the list, along with a fuse. The harder part is "making it part of (my) routine to turn it off".
I just got the car in August and already have tried to start it without turning the key. Several times.
I always do remember to turn on the gasoline, though.

Maybe a little checklist stuck with a magnet to the dashboard will help.

[Tom Endy]

If you have a fuse mounted to the top of the starter it is prudent to remove it each time you are through driving the car for the day. The fuse is usually rated at 30 amps. It is possible to have a short circuit somewhere in the car that draws less than the rated value of the fuse and it won't take it out. In this case the wiring could overheat and start the wire insulation on fire.

I pull the fuse out and stand it on its head at one end of the clip. With the fuse removed there in no power anywhere in the car except at the starter switch, which is not a threat.

Tom Endy

[David in San Antonio]

Thank you Tom. The car runs fine but sometimes is hard to start, or pops and goes BLAM when the throttle is closed, and a number of other misbehaviors. I planned (HA!) to go through the electrical system first, make sure the coil, condenser, points, plugs and timing are correct, then proceed to the fuel system / carb. The car had other ideas, alerting me that the fuel system wanted my attention first, by a sudden reek of raw gasoline. Turns out the fuel shut off valve (which was closed) AND the float valve conspired to let the gas drip overnight, completely soaking the new high-volume air cleaner which locates the big paper filter directly below the carb. Yikes. Now the fuel tank is empty and the carb is off the car. I think I'll install the fuse before I continue with the fuel system. In the meantime the now-recharged battery is still on the workbench. Plans are a funny thing. Was it Mike Tyson who said everyone has a plan until they get punched in the face?

[SDJason]

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on a side note, if you haven't already, you may want to peruse this thread:
"Things to do once you purchased your new A"

[BillCNC]

Originally Posted by Tom Endy

If you have a fuse mounted to the top of the starter it is prudent to remove it each time you are through driving the car for the day. The fuse is usually rated at 30 amps. It is possible to have a short circuit somewhere in the car that draws less than the rated value of the fuse and it won't take it out. In this case the wiring could overheat and start the wire insulation on fire.

I pull the fuse out and stand it on its head at one end of the clip. With the fuse removed there in no power anywhere in the car except at the starter switch, which is not a threat.

Tom Endy

Hi Tom,

I thought about removing the fuse, and about putting in a cut-off switch which I've had sitting in the package for over 4-years. The reason I haven't so far, is because I don't want to have to lift my hood up every time I want to go somewhere. Heck, it's one of the main reason's I bought a early 31 with the fuel shut-off still inside the car.

What I have been thinking I might do, is to relocate the fuse inside the car and use one of those fancy 30 amp breakers. They are larger and real easy to grab and remove. I was thinking that I could relocate the breaker out of sight under the dash rail in the left corner. Also, it's better security because everyone and their grandmother knows about the usual locations.

Regards
Bill

[Curtis in MA]

I ran the power from the starter to the key switch and then adjusted the wiring accordingly.

[nkaminar]

3 things:

1. You can buy a device that will disconnect the battery when the voltage gets to below a point that you set. See https://www.amazon.com/Disconnect-Ch...%3D%3D&sr=8-14

2. You can buy an LED to use in your dash light that uses far less amerage.

3. If you have a modern ignition switch you can wire the dash light so that it's current is supplied through the switch so that when you turn off the ignition the light goes out.

Discharging a lead-acid battery to a low voltage can build up lead sulfate crystals in the battery that will reduce it's capacity. You can fix this by using a charger/maintainer that has a desulfating function. Your smart charger/maintainer may already have this feature. Check the paperwork that came with the device or check online.

[the cooch]

Curtis- could you please post a drawing of your wiring layout. I too like all the power through the key switch and wonder how ours may differ. More than one right way to do it for sure…. Thanks! -Chris, in Boulder

[Curtis in MA]

Chris, I will look tonight.
I used the "new" switch with the accessory position.

[katy]

I thought about removing the fuse, and about putting in a cut-off switch which I've had sitting in the package for over 4-years. The reason I haven't so far, is because I don't want to have to lift my hood up every time I want to go somewhere.

My '31 CCPU has the battery disconnect mounted on the firewall, the switch part on the engine side and the handle on the cab side, so no need to open the hood to turn it on or off.

[BillCNC]

Originally Posted by katy

My '31 CCPU has the battery disconnect mounted on the firewall, the switch part on the engine side and the handle on the cab side, so no need to open the hood to turn it on or off.

Yeah, I thought about that, but didn't want to be the guy drilling non factory made holes into a 91 year old car. I spent an additional $800 for original style shocks because I didn't want to drill a hole in the frame at each corner for modern shocks at the time. I have nothing against anyone doing it to their car, it's their to do as they will. But I just couldn't do it. Maybe if my car had already been cut or drilled previously over the years, but it wasn't.

Regards
Bill

[ModelA29]

Originally Posted by David in San Antonio

I just got the car in August and already have tried to start it without turning the key. Several times.

We used a bunch of mnemonics when I was flying so nothing was forgotten. Has anyone made some up for the Model A?


https://www.aopa.org/news-and-media/...onic-reminders

[Curtis in MA]

I don't have a mnemonic but I work left to right.
Spark up, gas down, key on, gas valve open, choke up.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Curtis in MA

I don't have a mnemonic but I work left to right.
Spark up, gas down, key on, gas valve open, choke up.

Yup. That works for me, unless I’m distracted by a passenger. ;-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Curtis in MA]

I park in a garage so close to the wall that a passenger can't get in!

[Curtis in MA]

Hey Chris,


My notes aren't to good on this but here goes.
The power goes from the battery to starter, to terminal box, to ammeter to switch.
The two wires on the old switch are tied together. A new wire is run from the switch primary terminal to the negative side of the coil.
The old wire from the ammeter to the terminal box is moved to the accessory position of the switch.

[nkaminar]

BillCNC,

You don't have to drill holes for things like switches. You can use the strong magnets available on the internet and just glue them to whatever you want to mount. You can put the magnets on places were you would never drill a hole, like on the gas tank. You can glue or just put a piece of cloth over the magnet so that it does not scratch any paint.