very hard riding model A question spring

[31Abone]

Have 31 phaeton with new front spring from supplies,car sits about 1 to 1-1/2 inch to tall in front..which leaf should be removed also might be shocks are to tight ?? PS I bot car this way so can't return spring..

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

It's probably made wrong. If you have an original spring you can put the two together and look at the differences. I had the same problem five or six years ago. I think Breton sells a good replacement spring.Plus if it sits too high it will throw your I believe camber off and it won't steer properly either.

[Mitch//pa]

if you feel yhat your spring is an issue just buy a new one, they had 10 leafs
i wouldnt mess with removing a leaf vs replacing and getting the proper stance. they are pretty easy to do.

[Mike V. Florida]

If removed from the car the front spring should be about 30 5/8" to 30 13/16th's"center of the eye to center of the eye.

From the top of the spring pack to the floor 6 15/16" to 7 1/16"

[RonC]

This manufacturer is probably the best for new springs
http://www.a-springs.com

[Patrick L.]

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It kinda sounds to me as though you recently purchased this car ?

Have you checked the shocks for operation ? I'm just wondering if they are working correctly or are frozen which is not allowing the spring to do its job. Just a thought.

If everything seems to be OK and you want to remove a leaf, I'd remove a longer one. But, as the fellas said, new springs aren't that expensive.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Just One (1) Model A Shock Experience:

1. Not mentioned often is paying for re-built shocks where the "different" internals were incorrectly re-installed; e.g., if the shock arm offers "any" resistance in any direction, one might "assume" that the rebuilt shocks are wonderful; however a right rear shock will not function properly if it has left rear internal parts ....... then also, on smooth highways, one may never notice the difference in shock action.

2. I had four (4) shocks re-built a few years ago, later installed them on my Model A, & kept them on for one (1) day after noticing that my car bounced about as stiffly as a 1949 dump truck on bumpy back roads ....... ride was far worse than having absolutely "no" shocks.

3. After making a tool similar to the Ford Bulletin's K.R. Wilson Tool, (posted herein sometimes back) & testing all four re-built shocks, I found three(3) of the four (4) recently re-built shocks were rendering reversed action; i. e., strong resistance when moving the shock arm upwards & far less resistance when moving the shock arm downwards.

4. Rather than play Russian Roulette with re-ordering re-built shocks, I ordered & installed (4) new shocks this past January 2015 from Mr. Bill Stipe.

5. All four (4) were easily adjusted per the K.R. Wilson tool recommendation taking into consideration adjustments for different ambient temperatures.

6. It was first noticed that the often recommended 1/8 to 1/4 turn off of "Tight" was most inaccurate from shock to shock when compared to the testing results derived with seconds while using the simulated K.R. Wilson Tool; i.e., 1/32 of a turn made a big difference.

6. I guessed that the Ford's 1930's recommended winter shock setting for the U.S. which could mean about 18 degrees ....... summer setting could mean 85 degrees .......... (this no doubt was prior to our Global Warming B.S.) ....... then I drew a single line graft with vertical incremental temperature markings vs. horizontal incremental seconds for the arm to fall & estimated the recommended K. R. Wilson seconds for the temperature on the day & hour of adjustment ....... which was about 50 degrees this day, this past January 2015.

7. Great noticeable improvement in a ride on bumpy back roads with Mr. Stipe's properly adjusted new shocks.

Again, FWIW, just humbly sharing another Model A experience ....... just hope it helps if one wants to have a less exhausting & relaxing Model A ride.

[31Abone]

Good stuff thanks much..the trans is worn out also as it is noisy and shifting to second gear is difficult at times ,I think I will wait until I remove engine and then remove front spring and also check shock action. also looking for 2 good front fenders no wells for this 31 west coast.sc

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by 31Abone

Have 31 phaeton with new front spring from supplies,car sits about 1 to 1-1/2 inch to tall in front..which leaf should be removed also might be shocks are to tight ?? PS I bot car this way so can't return spring..

Is the front setting too high, or is the rear setting too low?

[31Abone]

Front to high...when I was under car lubing it I noticed new spring with part number stamp on bottom of spring, I suppose now I'm going to have to crawl under the beast again to read number ..LOL

[Tom Wesenberg]

If you stand out in front of the car about 10 feet, how much of the center of the front axle is showing below the splash shield?

[Mitch//pa]

what is the distance between the drag link and tierod?

[J Franklin]

You might have a hot rod spring meant for a V-8 engine weight.

[31Abone]

OK I just looked at tie rod drag separation and looks to be 1/2" or less 3/8 maybe ...but front all axle is visible at about 8 feet at center line below crank hole..

[Mitch//pa]

that tierod distance seems right a sagging spring they will rub...

i checked both of my cars with new front springs, the front apron just covers the top rib of the axle at center when looking at it straight on ...

[Tom Wesenberg]

It sounds about right to me also. Some repro springs don't have the short top leaf tapered on the sides, and if that's the case the spring won't set into place all the way. You might want to check that. I can take a picture of my 28 with the original spring, so you can see how it sets in relation to the crossmember.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I have a temporary front end on my 28 Phaeton while I restore the original. I thought this temp front end had an original spring, but it is a replacement with yellow words on the bottom leaf. Anyway it appears to set like it should. I took the picture at the same level as the bottom of the apron. On the second picture you can see the spring bottom leaf is about even with the rear crossmember flange. My temporary shackles probably have some wear, but the spring eyes aren't hitting the axle.

[Mitch//pa]

tom thats how mine sits with the top axle rib even with the lower apron
both of mine as mentioned has new springs