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01-20-2020, 12:06 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Bend Or.
Posts: 1,057
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Cab mounting blocks
Restoring a 30 CCPU, and I plan on replacing all the mounting blocks. Some of the ones I removed have places where they are cut down, possibly where the frame hits. But there are a lot of things not right.
Can anyone tell me if there are supposed to be "cutouts" In the blocks? There is one that has a curved relief to follow the cab channel, that one appears obvious. Also, after removing the top, I thought it would be a good idea to glue bamboo toothpicks into all the nail holes to make a new tight fit. Any reason not to go this way? The wood is in pretty decent shape.
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Bill Worden 1929 Roadster 1929 Briggs Town Sedan 1930 Closed Cab pickup Smith Motor Compressor 1951 Ford F1 High Desert Model A's |
01-20-2020, 12:28 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Walla Walla, Washington USA
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Re: Cab mounting blocks
Bill,
Most of the body blocks that I have seen have always had those "cutouts" that you speak of. Those areas are where the anti-squeek rubber pads are nailed to which come in contact with the frame. Are you restoring the 28-mid 30 cab or the later 30-31 cab? Pluck Last edited by Steve Plucker; 01-20-2020 at 12:51 PM. |
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01-20-2020, 03:28 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Bend Or.
Posts: 1,057
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Re: Cab mounting blocks
Ok, that makes sense, although there were no pads.
(No surprise) Thanks Pluck, Am restoring a Dec. 30
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Bill Worden 1929 Roadster 1929 Briggs Town Sedan 1930 Closed Cab pickup Smith Motor Compressor 1951 Ford F1 High Desert Model A's |
01-20-2020, 04:28 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: brentwood, ca
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Re: Cab mounting blocks
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