I'm going to try to repair this fender

[MSmelcer40]

I'm excited to learn...starting with this fender

[alchemy]

I second (or third) the technique of pulling it back into shape while still attached to the truck. You will be putting a lot pf force into it, and the weight of the truck will keep it from skating around the workshop. As well as making sure the thing will mount up again properly. It is very surprising how much the shape can change with a small dent repair, let alone a huge one.

You can use big wooden mallets to rough it out and they won't stretch the steel near as badly as a regular body hammer will. Don't worry, you will have plenty of opportunity to use the hammers and dollies removing the small dents after you have it looking like a "fender" again. If you have a slide hammer with some pulling hooks, I'd recommend starting with those to get it as close as possible. Not talking the drilla hole and yank a screw slide hammer action.

I also think you shouldn't be adding a wire or rod inside the bead of any '40 fender. A sure sign of an amateur repair, and makes me cringe whenever I find one. If the area is stretched/cracked/work-hardened beyond repair, cut the area out and make a new patch.

[rotorwrench]

Hammer on dolly does stretch metal and a person wants to avoid further stretch in an already stretched area. Shrinking the worst stretch spots is more about heating the spot and then working the metal around that spot to work the thickness back to where it belongs. It's really more a forging process than a shrinking process but the result is the same. Metal will only shrink so far by the heat and quench method. Sometimes it can shrink too much so I'm not quick to cool some stuff. Compressed air can be used to cool rather than a wet rag. This stuff is only learned by practice.

On real hard creases, I've had to make a small slit in the crease then work the metal back out around it. At some point the slit can be tacked and worked with the hammer & dolly hot to flatten out the weld only. This is repeated in the weld up with short weld beads to control heat and flattening them back to normal thickness while still hot. Use as little filler as possible or be prepared to grind the weld some so as not to make the area too thick. If butt welds are close enough, a good torch man will not need any filler. Welding on the inside of a patch will leave less on the outside if this is possible. I've seen fender work done an a table and then refit after to do final metal work. A shrinking disk on a hand grinder does work but it also takes time to master that process as well.

[MSmelcer40]

Alchemy ,such great advice...Thank you..I wouldn't have thought to patch rhe real rough area

[MSmelcer40]

I'm going.to purchase a wooden mallet...I only have the steel ones with dollies

[deuce_roadster]

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If you have a wire feed welder, it will be worth your while to purchases a roll of "easy grind" wire that fits your machine. I have .023 in mine for sheet metal. This wire is much softer than the standard S6 that comes with most machines. ( Nothing wrong with OX ACT torch). These S number refer to the hardness. You will appreciate the soft wire when you hammer and dolly a welded area and it doesn't just crack from the more brittle S6 wire or when you need to bend the area. Back in the day you could purchase S0 wire but I haven't seen it in a long time. Lots of good advice on this forum. I have taken several of the Ron Covell courses and I think you can view online many of his techniques. Remember as stated, ALL these techniques require lots of practice to get proficient. I had the good fortune to have a best friend who graduated with a degree in autobody repair from a trade school back in the 1960s. He is who taught me many of the basics (shrinking and stretching) and how to properly prepare bare steel and then paint. Don't get discouraged. You may get a truly junk fender or door to practice on.
Good luck.

[MSmelcer40]

Thanks Deuce.Im amazed at the outpouring of support also

[rotorwrench]

With O/A equipment, I use RG45 filler wire when I need it. I also use an aircraft torch that was made by Victor a long time ago. I have a MIG welder but the wire is a lot harder than RG45 due to the force it takes to feed the wire. 45Ksi versus 70Ksi is a lot of difference. I don't use MIG due to that but I have used ER70S-6 and Argon/CO2 mix a time or two. A little aircraft torch is easier for me to handle anyway plus I tend to use fusion only (no filler rod)where ever I can get away with it. I don't have to do so much grinding or filing that way.

[Ben38]

How did the attempt at fixing the fender go?

[alanwoodieman]

right rear fenders on all three of my 40/41 pick ups were dented and broken. guess they backed into a lot of things. I commend you for trying to repair it--go ahead and post updates!! good luck

[Mart]

If you look for Carter auto restorations on YouTube, Kyle shows some great methods for fender repair. Very good videos.

Mart.

[richard crow]

before you start pray for help it helps

[Frank Miller]

This is an Austin Healey shroud that actually got straightened. Wray is a pretty smart guy and if you watch his videos you can learn a lot. When you understand the the term "area value" and "arrangement it all makes sense as to how it works. His flexible shape patterns and gauges are used by quite a few people. It is merely tape covering the panel you want to reproduce with a low stick type of masking tape and writing information then covering that with clear shipping tape. You end up with a thin sheet of plastic that can be turned inside out to reproduce the other side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Al-O3_4Xas

[KDAWG97M3]

Awesome

[BoxCar Tom]

Here's a book on the subject

[pistonbroke]

I had a 36 Dodge pickup that was straight and clean. Was just a nice survivor as they say today. I was driving it down a country road and hit a bad chuck hole. The right rear fender came lose and got drug under the tire then came out the back like a frisbee . Looked a lot worse then yours with less availability . Needless to say I saved it. I learned a lot with that fender and still use and share that knowledge to this day. Look at it like a challenge and go for it. You'll be glad you did. Tim

[deuce_roadster]

Getting a no filler job with that fender as a first time bodyman is a big challenge. It CAN be done. If you look at my MISC folder, there are pictures of a 34 sedan delivery I fixed as a first time metal working project. I had lots of expert advice from old school professionals as to how to go about it. I was able to do the 34 because it had NO rust and nobody else tried to fix it before me. It can be done but as Mike suggested, a better starting point will be worth your time and make the job easier. You will learn a lot either way. Good luck

[ronn]

I can share the knowledge I'd gained through the years when handed something akin to this to finish. If a replacement is available, purchase it. __________________




amen to that. life is too short to waste.

[NealinCA]

Here's a reference to an old "post" I did over on the HAMB about some fender repair...

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...h-post.444029/

I found a few more pictures after I stripped the paint and worked the fenders with a shrinking disc and pick. See below

Good luck with your project.

Neal

[B-O-B]

I have used the orange plastic hammer in repairing a front 34 fender. It weighs 3# .