The Ford Barn

H. L. Chauvin · 02-18-2013, 11:53 PM

Headlights with single bulb were working fine.

Removed lenses & reflectors to install new headlight conduits only to find "old" inside wires in dry rubber tubes.

Headlight sockets had been soldered together where they mechanically join & metal tips which contact bulbs appeared beat up. Parts of the wires had cloth, electrical tape & some wire parts partly exposed where joining sockets.

After reading so many post about "today's" new sockets, whereby some are descent & some are terrible, I decided to investigate & order same.

They arrived earlier today at work whereby I called Bratton's to inquire if any headlight socket modifications were recommended prior to installation. Mr. Walt Bratton answered the phone.

He said he had heard from customers about different faulty socket manufacturers over the years; however, he said he has been successfully selling this particular make for (6) to (7) years & that he personally never heard of a customer complaining.

He did asked me to please report back about any problems, if any, after installation.

Tonight I tried headlight lamps in both sockets with a 6 volt lantern battery. The socket springs appeared as strong as my originals & the sockets appeared far more descent than my beat-up originals.

Anyway, only one (1) filament lit at a time like it is supposed to. Then I shook the assembly simulating hitting bumps in the road, trying to make it malfunction, but everything continued to work fine.

I'll let Mr. Bratton know this tomorrow.

I'm sure some other vendors possibly sell good quality sockets.

Hope this helps someone if they need new headlight sockets

Joe K · 02-19-2013, 12:00 AM

Walt runs a good show. Strives for perfection. Not there yet but close.

Do you plan on doing the rubber plug at the shell/ferrule/conduit interface or just joining the wires with solder and shrink tubing?

Joe K

H. L. Chauvin · 02-19-2013, 01:06 AM

Hi Joe,

Have all new rubber plugs at shell/ferrule/conduit interface etc. which I will no doubt try maybe this week end. Appears this particular part of the headlight assembly failed when not maintaining continuous electrical conduction between metal components.

Because of extreme high humidity, cool nights, & warm moist air during days, condensation of humid, warm moist air on cold metal is a problem at this time of year whereby oxidation ocurs between adjoining surfaces of ferrous & non-ferrous electrical connections -- brass & copper connectors build up green, causing insulating corrosion -- steel forms ferric oxide, i.e., rust which is a poor conductor.

To combat same, I have been sucessfully using "Thomas & Betts -Kopr-Shield" on "all" Model A electrical connections. Has about 30% high conducting copper powder in a petroleum base which keeps out offensive moisture & provides excellent conducting "contact" between "all" electrical connections.

Also works great on emergency generators for hospitals etc, where having "instant" emergency generator power "all" of the time is a life & death issue during power outages.

Eastwood used to sell it in 1-1/2 oz. bottles with brush but discontinued same -- Ebay has it in larger 8 oz. containers. With one's Zip Code, it can be found locally in 1-1/2 oz. containers where indicated on the Thomas & Betts site.

This product helps intermittent electrical conducting concerns at "all" Model A electrical connections.

H. L. Chauvin · 02-19-2013, 12:40 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I have an original wiring harness & also a new wiring harness from Bratton's -- both for a single bulb headlight with cowl headlights.

1. The original wiring harness was wired per "all" of the wiring diagrams in "all" manuals; i.,e., such that when viewed from the underside in a clockwise direction, the three (3) adjacent spade connectors on the bottom of the round, black plastic light switch disc were positioned in this manner: DIM; BRIGHT, COWL.

2. On the new harness, the Black w/Green Tracer wire, & the Black w/Red Tracer wire for DIM & BRIGHT respectively were switched on the spade connectors attached to the black plastic round disk, such that in the same clockwise direction, one saw the wires arranged as BRIGHT, DIM, & COWL.

No matter how the light switch is wired, it makes good sense to arrange headlight wires in a manner to have Cowl/Parking at 7:00 o'clock; Off at 6:00, Dim at 5:00, & Bright at 4:00.

Also, inside the headlight, the single bulb/socket position can be rotated 180 degrees to coordinate light bulbs with light switch position.

02-18-2013, 11:53 PM	#1
H. L. Chauvin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,179	Sockets for Original Headlights Headlights with single bulb were working fine. Removed lenses & reflectors to install new headlight conduits only to find "old" inside wires in dry rubber tubes. Headlight sockets had been soldered together where they mechanically join & metal tips which contact bulbs appeared beat up. Parts of the wires had cloth, electrical tape & some wire parts partly exposed where joining sockets. After reading so many post about "today's" new sockets, whereby some are descent & some are terrible, I decided to investigate & order same. They arrived earlier today at work whereby I called Bratton's to inquire if any headlight socket modifications were recommended prior to installation. Mr. Walt Bratton answered the phone. He said he had heard from customers about different faulty socket manufacturers over the years; however, he said he has been successfully selling this particular make for (6) to (7) years & that he personally never heard of a customer complaining. He did asked me to please report back about any problems, if any, after installation. Tonight I tried headlight lamps in both sockets with a 6 volt lantern battery. The socket springs appeared as strong as my originals & the sockets appeared far more descent than my beat-up originals. Anyway, only one (1) filament lit at a time like it is supposed to. Then I shook the assembly simulating hitting bumps in the road, trying to make it malfunction, but everything continued to work fine. I'll let Mr. Bratton know this tomorrow. I'm sure some other vendors possibly sell good quality sockets. Hope this helps someone if they need new headlight sockets Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 02-19-2013 at 01:58 AM. Reason: typo

02-19-2013, 12:00 AM	#2
Joe K Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,188	Re: Sockets for Original Headlights Walt runs a good show. Strives for perfection. Not there yet but close. Do you plan on doing the rubber plug at the shell/ferrule/conduit interface or just joining the wires with solder and shrink tubing? Joe K __________________ Shudda kept the horse.

02-19-2013, 01:06 AM	#3
H. L. Chauvin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,179	Re: Sockets for Original Headlights Hi Joe, Have all new rubber plugs at shell/ferrule/conduit interface etc. which I will no doubt try maybe this week end. Appears this particular part of the headlight assembly failed when not maintaining continuous electrical conduction between metal components. Because of extreme high humidity, cool nights, & warm moist air during days, condensation of humid, warm moist air on cold metal is a problem at this time of year whereby oxidation ocurs between adjoining surfaces of ferrous & non-ferrous electrical connections -- brass & copper connectors build up green, causing insulating corrosion -- steel forms ferric oxide, i.e., rust which is a poor conductor. To combat same, I have been sucessfully using "Thomas & Betts -Kopr-Shield" on "all" Model A electrical connections. Has about 30% high conducting copper powder in a petroleum base which keeps out offensive moisture & provides excellent conducting "contact" between "all" electrical connections. Also works great on emergency generators for hospitals etc, where having "instant" emergency generator power "all" of the time is a life & death issue during power outages. Eastwood used to sell it in 1-1/2 oz. bottles with brush but discontinued same -- Ebay has it in larger 8 oz. containers. With one's Zip Code, it can be found locally in 1-1/2 oz. containers where indicated on the Thomas & Betts site. This product helps intermittent electrical conducting concerns at "all" Model A electrical connections. Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 02-19-2013 at 02:00 AM. Reason: typo

02-19-2013, 12:40 PM	#4
H. L. Chauvin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,179	Re: Sockets for Original Headlights Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I have an original wiring harness & also a new wiring harness from Bratton's -- both for a single bulb headlight with cowl headlights. 1. The original wiring harness was wired per "all" of the wiring diagrams in "all" manuals; i.,e., such that when viewed from the underside in a clockwise direction, the three (3) adjacent spade connectors on the bottom of the round, black plastic light switch disc were positioned in this manner: DIM; BRIGHT, COWL. 2. On the new harness, the Black w/Green Tracer wire, & the Black w/Red Tracer wire for DIM & BRIGHT respectively were switched on the spade connectors attached to the black plastic round disk, such that in the same clockwise direction, one saw the wires arranged as BRIGHT, DIM, & COWL. No matter how the light switch is wired, it makes good sense to arrange headlight wires in a manner to have Cowl/Parking at 7:00 o'clock; Off at 6:00, Dim at 5:00, & Bright at 4:00. Also, inside the headlight, the single bulb/socket position can be rotated 180 degrees to coordinate light bulbs with light switch position.