The Ford Barn

bluesman31 · 03-23-2013, 10:01 AM

I am replacing my upper water goose neck as part of my cooling system flush and redo, and it came with paper gaskets.

Am I better off going with copper gasket and sealant, or just sealant to prevent cracking?

Second question is do I need to do some form of tourqe sequence, and if so exactly what?

Thanks a bunch!

Greg out west · 03-23-2013, 10:32 AM

Hey Bluesman,

Don't use the thick paper gasket. It's a diasture waiting to happen... Use a paperbag thickness gasket, the copper type, or just silicone..& torque it up too 55 lbs evenly

Using the water outlet for full head torque wasn't a great idea..Ford got rid of it on the "B" engine...The copper "original type" has the crush ring's on it...for a reason

Greg out West,

Rock Hornbuckle · 03-23-2013, 10:54 AM

Torque up in small increments. I go 5 .lbs Ft. in each increment. The ears on the water neck are prone to break.

Mark in MT · 03-23-2013, 11:48 AM

Flatten the gasket surface with sand paper stuck to a piece of plate glass, move in a figure 8 pattern until it has 100% contact, all the bottom is the same color. Install using rtv sealant, this works for me. What breaks the ears off is that the base is not flat and the ears are flexed during torquing. If the bottom is flat you can use full torque with rtv and it will not break.

Russ/40 · 03-23-2013, 03:58 PM

I although not an experienced "A"er, have made that mistake. In my case I used the paper gasket, with apparent success, until, the neck broke two weeks later when the vehicle was just sitting in the garage. I vote for RTV on good and flat surfaces, no gasket at all.

TinCup · 03-23-2013, 04:00 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I have had best luck with just RTV.

montanafordman · 03-23-2013, 04:29 PM

I used the paper gasket with no problems but I used the paper match trick. Put a paper match between the surfaces on the outside of the studs under the ears to prevent them from breaking. Search the forum and you'll find a lot more info on it, and others could describe this process, the why's and how's more eloquently than me.

FWIW I inherited my model A from my grandfather and when I picked it up I did notice a broken water neck on his garage workbench so thankfully I was aware of the potential for a problem and read about it before I took mine off.

Aok · 03-23-2013, 04:46 PM

Just did mine with the RTV no problems

Tom Wesenberg · 03-23-2013, 05:38 PM

Paper gaskets get wet and squish out, then the ears break. I've only had success using the copper gasket, or no gasket and a thin coat of RTV.

Rock Hornbuckle · 03-23-2013, 06:17 PM

Sorry, I answered only the torque question. I also use RTV, and have never had a problem.

bluesman31 · 03-23-2013, 08:05 PM

I would prefer not to pull the studs, so I really can't get the surfaces glass flat. Will RTV only be OK as long as it is pretty clean? Otherwise is the copper gasket a safe bet?

Bruce,Upstate NY · 03-23-2013, 08:16 PM

I avoid gaskets which can cause the outlet to "bend" and break when torqued. Flat surfaces and a little sealer can be fully torqued.

Drive Shaft Dave · 03-23-2013, 08:40 PM

If you dont want to break the goose neck, mill file the flat surface, then mill file the part that it connects to. Use the copper gasket and you will not have to worry about breakage.

Milton · 03-23-2013, 09:11 PM

RTV and no gasket, torque in multiple small steps. It is a non-pressurized cooling system until it boils. The last time I bragged to my parts man about no problems with a gasket I promptly went home and broke a gooseneck. Ahhh the taste of crow...

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-23-2013, 11:10 PM

Mine broke unannounced 3 days after I bought the car, sounded like a .22 rifle shot! It had the danged thick gasket. Bought a FORD script aluminum one, 'cause the picture in the catalog looked like it was "polished" (it wasn't!) Painted it green & used a paper thin gasket & a light smear of RTV. Wonder if alujimum is less likely to break than cast iron??? Bill W.

Tom Wesenberg · 03-23-2013, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Mine broke unannounced 3 days after I bought the car, sounded like a .22 rifle shot! It had the danged thick gasket. Bought a FORD script aluminum one, 'cause the picture in the catalog looked like it was "polished" (it wasn't!) Painted it green & used a paper thin gasket & a light smear of RTV. Wonder if alujimum is less likely to break than cast iron??? Bill W.

It must be because I have yet to see a broken aluminum outlet.

03-23-2013, 10:01 AM	#1
bluesman31 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: E. Massachusetts & New Hampsire Posts: 152	Replacing water neck I am replacing my upper water goose neck as part of my cooling system flush and redo, and it came with paper gaskets. Am I better off going with copper gasket and sealant, or just sealant to prevent cracking? Second question is do I need to do some form of tourqe sequence, and if so exactly what? Thanks a bunch! __________________ 31 Deluxe Roadster

03-23-2013, 10:32 AM	#2
Greg out west Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So. Cal Posts: 249	Re: Replacing water neck Hey Bluesman, Don't use the thick paper gasket. It's a diasture waiting to happen... Use a paperbag thickness gasket, the copper type, or just silicone..& torque it up too 55 lbs evenly Using the water outlet for full head torque wasn't a great idea..Ford got rid of it on the "B" engine...The copper "original type" has the crush ring's on it...for a reason Greg out West,

03-23-2013, 10:54 AM	#3
Rock Hornbuckle Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Noxon Montana Posts: 532	Re: Replacing water neck Torque up in small increments. I go 5 .lbs Ft. in each increment. The ears on the water neck are prone to break. __________________ '31 Fordor Deluxe 2W Briggs 170-B / blackwalls '41 Fordor Deluxe / 2-duece flattie '66 1/2 Dodge Charger '14 100th Anniversary Challenger Limited Edition. Semper Fidelis

03-23-2013, 11:48 AM	#4
Mark in MT Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Western MT Posts: 218	Re: Replacing water neck Flatten the gasket surface with sand paper stuck to a piece of plate glass, move in a figure 8 pattern until it has 100% contact, all the bottom is the same color. Install using rtv sealant, this works for me. What breaks the ears off is that the base is not flat and the ears are flexed during torquing. If the bottom is flat you can use full torque with rtv and it will not break. __________________ Mark in MT Always looking for another opportunity to be wrong.

03-23-2013, 03:58 PM	#5
Russ/40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santee, California Posts: 3,505	Re: Replacing water neck I although not an experienced "A"er, have made that mistake. In my case I used the paper gasket, with apparent success, until, the neck broke two weeks later when the vehicle was just sitting in the garage. I vote for RTV on good and flat surfaces, no gasket at all.

03-23-2013, 04:00 PM	#6
TinCup Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: OKC / Tonkawa, Ok. Posts: 1,977	Re: Replacing water neck Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I have had best luck with just RTV. __________________ Oklahoma City Model A Restorers Group.

03-23-2013, 04:29 PM	#7
montanafordman Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Meridian, ID Posts: 568	Re: Replacing water neck I used the paper gasket with no problems but I used the paper match trick. Put a paper match between the surfaces on the outside of the studs under the ears to prevent them from breaking. Search the forum and you'll find a lot more info on it, and others could describe this process, the why's and how's more eloquently than me. FWIW I inherited my model A from my grandfather and when I picked it up I did notice a broken water neck on his garage workbench so thankfully I was aware of the potential for a problem and read about it before I took mine off.

03-23-2013, 04:46 PM	#8
Aok Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Tx Posts: 502	Re: Replacing water neck Just did mine with the RTV no problems

03-23-2013, 05:38 PM	#9
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Replacing water neck Paper gaskets get wet and squish out, then the ears break. I've only had success using the copper gasket, or no gasket and a thin coat of RTV.

03-23-2013, 06:17 PM	#10
Rock Hornbuckle Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Noxon Montana Posts: 532	Re: Replacing water neck Sorry, I answered only the torque question. I also use RTV, and have never had a problem. __________________ '31 Fordor Deluxe 2W Briggs 170-B / blackwalls '41 Fordor Deluxe / 2-duece flattie '66 1/2 Dodge Charger '14 100th Anniversary Challenger Limited Edition. Semper Fidelis

03-23-2013, 08:05 PM	#11
bluesman31 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: E. Massachusetts & New Hampsire Posts: 152	Re: Replacing water neck I would prefer not to pull the studs, so I really can't get the surfaces glass flat. Will RTV only be OK as long as it is pretty clean? Otherwise is the copper gasket a safe bet? __________________ 31 Deluxe Roadster

03-23-2013, 08:16 PM	#12
Bruce,Upstate NY Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Odessa, NY Posts: 385	Re: Replacing water neck I avoid gaskets which can cause the outlet to "bend" and break when torqued. Flat surfaces and a little sealer can be fully torqued.

03-23-2013, 08:40 PM	#13
Drive Shaft Dave Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: New hope Minnesota Posts: 742	Re: Replacing water neck If you dont want to break the goose neck, mill file the flat surface, then mill file the part that it connects to. Use the copper gasket and you will not have to worry about breakage.

03-23-2013, 09:11 PM	#14
Milton Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 837	Re: Replacing water neck RTV and no gasket, torque in multiple small steps. It is a non-pressurized cooling system until it boils. The last time I bragged to my parts man about no problems with a gasket I promptly went home and broke a gooseneck. Ahhh the taste of crow...

03-23-2013, 11:10 PM	#15
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: Replacing water neck Mine broke unannounced 3 days after I bought the car, sounded like a .22 rifle shot! It had the danged thick gasket. Bought a FORD script aluminum one, 'cause the picture in the catalog looked like it was "polished" (it wasn't!) Painted it green & used a paper thin gasket & a light smear of RTV. Wonder if alujimum is less likely to break than cast iron??? Bill W. __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"