31 Deluxe Roadster too much oil, should I drain some?

[Mitch//pa]

I can't see it building up 1/2 " of sludge in 1500 miles with non detergent oil

[P.S.]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

I can't see it building up 1/2 " of sludge in 1500 miles with non detergent oil

If that is the case, then would I be correct in guessing it is running very, very rich and/or the rings are not yet seated?

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by P.S.

If that is the case, then would I be correct in guessing it is running very, very rich and/or the rings are not yet seated?

And would probably have a crankcase full of fuel

[Tom Wesenberg]

To check for sludge you could drain the oil and use an Allen wrench or wire bent into an L shape, then stick it inside the drain hole and spin it to scrape the pan bottom and see if it picks up any sludge.

[RonC]

using non detergent oil would allow sludge to settle into the oil plug cavity. When you say 1/2 inch you mean the drain plug was full of sludge. I don't see how you could remove the plug with a 1/2 inch of sludge resting on top? I wouldn't pull the pan just replace the oil with detergent oil and change it 200-500 miles and monitor the sludge.

[Neil Mylar LakewoodCA]

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If you do pull the pan, definitely start using detergent oil.
I doubt you will find any slug in the pan, but if you do, then you should check out the valve chamber also.

[Skibb]

Originally Posted by RonC

using non detergent oil would allow sludge to settle into the oil plug cavity. When you say 1/2 inch you mean the drain plug was full of sludge. I don't see how you could remove the plug with a 1/2 inch of sludge resting on top? I wouldn't pull the pan just replace the oil with detergent oil and change it 200-500 miles and monitor the sludge.

This is the advice I got in 1956 when I got my first Model A. It worked then and will work now.

[old31]

Originally Posted by RonC

using non detergent oil would allow sludge to settle into the oil plug cavity. When you say 1/2 inch you mean the drain plug was full of sludge. I don't see how you could remove the plug with a 1/2 inch of sludge resting on top? I wouldn't pull the pan just replace the oil with detergent oil and change it 200-500 miles and monitor the sludge.

Ya, the sludge just kind of piled up on the top of the plug.

[old31]

Follow up:

I drained out the non detergent oil. Filled it up using Mobil 1 15/50.

This is what the quantities looked like on the dipstick.

1 quart = 0 reading
1 and 1/2 quarts = 1/8 inch from bottom of stick
2 quarts = Bottom of "L"
2 and 1/2 quarts = 3/4 inch up stick
3 quarts = 7/8 of and inch, about half way up
3 and 1/2 quarts = 1 and 1/8 inch up
4 quarts = Botton of "F"
4 and 1/4 quarts = top of "F"

So, at my original 5 quarts I was 3/4 of a quart too much.

This winter I will pull the pan and see how it looks.

[C26Pinelake]

All is well that ends well! Wayne

[old31]

Follow up to the follow up.

Just came back from a 20 mile ride and the oil drips are a fraction of what I had with the 5 quarts non detergent.

[old31]

Follow up:

I pulled the pan because of the oil leaks. The pan was pretty clean with little sludge. I ordered the Snyders oil pan kit.

I will be redoing it because it is leaking as bad or maybe worse. Not sure what happened. I used dabs of Permatex 2 where the gaskets met in the corners. I did not use any sealant on the rail gaskets. ANY TIPS?

With so much written about the oil pump falling out, and finding bolts to hold them in. What am I missing (besides brain cells) I grew up in the 60's.

I left the pump attached and never removed it. So, why cant you use the same bolt that holds the pump in if you chose to remove the pump? Some have said to use Snyders A-6621-R pump retainer, or other types of hardware store bolts.

[Dollar Bill]

Where was the oil leaking from?

Oil pump likely stuck in place. Should you decide to remove it, just side load it with a wire loop until you get a few oil pan bolts started then pull the wire loop and continue with oil pan installation.

[Cornishman]

If you need to remove some oil from a sump there are some great vacuum pumps available that do the job cleanly and efficiently. Much better than trying to drain off a bit of oil or refilling the sump with most of the oil that you drained.

[Tom Wesenberg]

No bolt holds the pump in place. The spring at the bottom of the pump holds it until you lower the pan. Make sure the spring doesn't have any rust pits, or it might snap while in use.

The side of the block should have a 1/8" pipe plug with a screwdriver slot.

[700rpm]

Don't put a bolt into that 1/8" pipe plug hole! It's a pipe thread and a standard bolt will mess up the threads. When I have to hold the pump in position when installing the pan, I use a Phillips head screwdriver or a drift punch wedged throguh the hole and between the frame and the pump.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by old31

Follow up:

I drained out the non detergent oil. Filled it up using Mobil 1 15/50.

This is what the quantities looked like on the dipstick.

1 quart = 0 reading
1 and 1/2 quarts = 1/8 inch from bottom of stick
2 quarts = Bottom of "L"
2 and 1/2 quarts = 3/4 inch up stick
3 quarts = 7/8 of and inch, about half way up
3 and 1/2 quarts = 1 and 1/8 inch up
4 quarts = Botton of "F"
4 and 1/4 quarts = top of "F"

So, at my original 5 quarts I was 3/4 of a quart too much.

This winter I will pull the pan and see how it looks.

Unless I'm missing something, that sounds right.

When the oil pan is removed/installed then 5 qts are required. During a normal oil change 4- 4 1/4 qts are then needed. The dip tray and valve chamber holds 1/2-3/4 qt.

[old31]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

No bolt holds the pump in place. The spring at the bottom of the pump holds it until you lower the pan. Make sure the spring doesn't have any rust pits, or it might snap while in use.

The side of the block should have a 1/8" pipe plug with a screwdriver slot.

Isn't this bolt used to hold up the oil pump? I was able to remove the bolts on the bottom of the pump and removed and cleaned the pump screen, and the oil pump remained up.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by old31

Isn't this bolt used to hold up the oil pump? I was able to remove the bolts on the bottom of the pump and removed and cleaned the pump screen, and the oil pump remained up.

It depends on what the other end looks like and how long it is. It looks as though it is a pipe plug used to replace the original, but, needs to be removed and looked at to be sure. It could also have been made to hold up the pump when the pan was previously removed/installed and just not removed as it should have been. But, as has been said, the oil pump is not to be held up under normal usage by anything but the spring under the pump.

[katy]

I will be redoing it because it is leaking as bad or maybe worse. Not sure what happened. I used dabs of Permatex 2 where the gaskets met in the corners. I did not use any sealant on the rail gaskets. ANY TIPS?

Did you ensure that the gasket surface of the pan was FLAT before you re-installed it?

Where exactly was it leaking?