The Ford Barn

Stingray70 · 02-13-2023, 06:29 PM

I found this today. 1200 miles since rebuild, no leaks, car runs great. Snyder 5.5 head.

It looks like the core of the head gasket is squeezing out at the rear. The copper is still in place. What causes this? Thoughts or suggestions? I am not excited about taking a freshly rebuilt engine apart and definitely don't want this to happen again.

Thanks guys

Chuck Sea/Tac · 02-13-2023, 07:12 PM

You need to check head and block for flatness. No choice but to remove head. Most people don’t like the black gaskets because they’re hard to remove. However I think they do a better job of sealing. IMO

Gene F · 02-13-2023, 07:34 PM

I have heard of things like this. My engine shop said that some of the gaskets being sold are of such construction that they continually need retorquing. When he said that the first thing I thought about was what if a person has a high compression head...

I think you will find you need to pull that head off and get a felpro gasket.

CT Jack · 02-13-2023, 08:51 PM

Newly rebuilt engines need to be retorqued several or more times during break in and routinely thereafter. This should be done when the engine is cold, not warm. The head could be as mentioned out of flatness. Head flatness should be .005" or less. Your head gasket needs to be replaced. This should be done by the rebuilder at no charge.

ModelA29 · 02-13-2023, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CT Jack

This should be done by the rebuilder at no charge.

Unless he told you to retorque the head every X miles for the first 1,000 miles and you didn't.

nkaminar · 02-14-2023, 08:27 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

For me, the graphite Best brand gasket with some copper spray gasket cement has worked best.

Ron Blissit · 02-14-2023, 12:01 PM

plus me on what kaminar said that has worked well on several high compression flat head engines in the past for me

Dick M · 02-14-2023, 12:12 PM

I have seen a brand new head that was warped. Always check any head for level before installing.

Best Brand head gasket and copper spray always worked for me. Spray the head gasket with copper spray, let it sit a few minutes until tacky, spray again, and install.

Stingray70 · 02-15-2023, 05:56 PM

It was a new head. I retorqued the head as directed at 50 miles, 100 miles and 500 miles. I ordered the Best gasket and will dig into it next week. Very curious what I find. Thanks for the suggestions guys

31a · 02-17-2023, 05:44 PM

I use the Best gasket and copper spray 5.5 head so far no trouble torque it run it get it warm then retorque and drive it

J and M Machine · 02-18-2023, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stingray70

I found this today. 1200 miles since rebuild, no leaks, car runs great. Snyder 5.5 head.

It looks like the core of the head gasket is squeezing out at the rear. The copper is still in place. What causes this? Thoughts or suggestions? I am not excited about taking a freshly rebuilt engine apart and definitely don't want this to happen again.

Thanks guys

First issue is the cylinder head isn't flat out of the box when you purchased it. I have enclosed pictures of Snyder/TODD head painted blue and you can see why your gasket is pushed out.
To Date every one we've purchased for customers engines has been warped/distorted,poorly machined.
I would remove the cylinder head and make a visit to the local machine shop and have them resurface it along with what everyone else has mentioned
and you'll be in good shape.
www.jandm-machine.com

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 02-18-2023, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CT Jack

Newly rebuilt engines need to be retorqued several or more times during break in and routinely thereafter. This should be done when the engine is cold, not warm. The head could be as mentioned out of flatness. Head flatness should be .005" or less. Your head gasket needs to be replaced. This should be done by the rebuilder at no charge.

Geez Jack, when I or other shops do a short block for the customer we don't even install the head or gasket. So what should we do in that scenario??

Stingray70 · 03-03-2023, 10:34 AM

I had time to remove the head today. It came apart easily and I cleaned the block & head with carb cleaner and a microfiber towel. There is a dark line on the block that bothers me a bit. It extends from the stud towards the water jacket. A ran a pick gently across it and don't feel anything. Anything to be concerned about?

DJ S · 03-03-2023, 03:55 PM

Hard to say from the picture but it does not look like a crack to me. Cracks typically propagate from the exhaust seat.

nkaminar · 03-03-2023, 05:47 PM

Check flatness of head. One way is to to just place in on the block and see if a 0.002 feeler gauge will fit in anywhere. If it does, then the head is not flat. (Or block is not flat.)

Use the Best graphite gasket with the copper spray gasket sealer. Follow the torque recommendations.

Stingray70 · 03-03-2023, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Check flatness of head. One way is to to just place in on the block and see if a 0.002 feeler gauge will fit in anywhere. If it does, then the head is not flat. (Or block is not flat.)

Use the Best graphite gasket with the copper spray gasket sealer. Follow the torque recommendations.

The head and block both looked OK using a metal straight edge. I used the Best gasket but the website said NOT to use anything on it. Hopefully it will be ok.

Snyders says torque the head to 55, the builder says 60. What do you guys use?

Bob C · 03-03-2023, 07:21 PM

I think the way Terry Burtz says to check this head and block would work good.

Oiled Plastigage should be used to verify cylinder head flatness before
wasting a head gasket and having to spend the time to clean the resulting
mess from a failed head gasket.
Place short pieces of oiled Plastigage around various locations on the
cylinder block, install the head and tighten the nuts to 20 lb-ft in
increments not exceeding 10 lb-ft as described in “Head Torque” below.
Remove the head and measure the Plastigage. If your head is not
within 0.002 inch of being flat, it will need to be resurfaced.

Y-Blockhead · 03-03-2023, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stingray70

The head and block both looked OK using a metal straight edge. I used the Best gasket but the website said NOT to use anything on it. Hopefully it will be ok.

Snyders says torque the head to 55, the builder says 60. What do you guys use?

I'm sure you will get 139 different answers but I use the Best 509G gasket, dry, 55 psi. Re-torque, cold, after every heat cycle, 3 or 4 times until head is settled. head is Snyder 5.5.

I usually re-torque my head every 1000 miles while waiting for the oil to drain. Overkill for sure.

02-13-2023, 06:29 PM	#1
Stingray70 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2021 Location: Western NC Posts: 213	Strange head gasket issue I found this today. 1200 miles since rebuild, no leaks, car runs great. Snyder 5.5 head. It looks like the core of the head gasket is squeezing out at the rear. The copper is still in place. What causes this? Thoughts or suggestions? I am not excited about taking a freshly rebuilt engine apart and definitely don't want this to happen again. Thanks guys __________________ 1930 Standard Coupe

02-13-2023, 07:12 PM	#2
Chuck Sea/Tac Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Between Seattle & Tacoma Posts: 2,354	Re: Strange head gasket issue You need to check head and block for flatness. No choice but to remove head. Most people don’t like the black gaskets because they’re hard to remove. However I think they do a better job of sealing. IMO

02-13-2023, 07:34 PM	#3
Gene F Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,975	Re: Strange head gasket issue I have heard of things like this. My engine shop said that some of the gaskets being sold are of such construction that they continually need retorquing. When he said that the first thing I thought about was what if a person has a high compression head... I think you will find you need to pull that head off and get a felpro gasket.

02-13-2023, 08:51 PM	#4
CT Jack Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Hebron, CT Posts: 432	Re: Strange head gasket issue Newly rebuilt engines need to be retorqued several or more times during break in and routinely thereafter. This should be done when the engine is cold, not warm. The head could be as mentioned out of flatness. Head flatness should be .005" or less. Your head gasket needs to be replaced. This should be done by the rebuilder at no charge.

02-14-2023, 08:27 AM	#6
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 3,902	Re: Strange head gasket issue Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) For me, the graphite Best brand gasket with some copper spray gasket cement has worked best. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

02-14-2023, 12:01 PM	#7
Ron Blissit Member Join Date: Feb 2022 Location: Norman Posts: 37	Re: Strange head gasket issue plus me on what kaminar said that has worked well on several high compression flat head engines in the past for me

02-14-2023, 12:12 PM	#8
Dick M Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ukiah, CA Posts: 477	Re: Strange head gasket issue I have seen a brand new head that was warped. Always check any head for level before installing. Best Brand head gasket and copper spray always worked for me. Spray the head gasket with copper spray, let it sit a few minutes until tacky, spray again, and install.

02-15-2023, 05:56 PM	#9
Stingray70 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2021 Location: Western NC Posts: 213	Re: Strange head gasket issue It was a new head. I retorqued the head as directed at 50 miles, 100 miles and 500 miles. I ordered the Best gasket and will dig into it next week. Very curious what I find. Thanks for the suggestions guys __________________ 1930 Standard Coupe

02-17-2023, 05:44 PM	#10
31a Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: College Station, Tx Posts: 326	Re: Strange head gasket issue I use the Best gasket and copper spray 5.5 head so far no trouble torque it run it get it warm then retorque and drive it

03-03-2023, 10:34 AM	#13
Stingray70 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2021 Location: Western NC Posts: 213	Re: Strange head gasket issue I had time to remove the head today. It came apart easily and I cleaned the block & head with carb cleaner and a microfiber towel. There is a dark line on the block that bothers me a bit. It extends from the stud towards the water jacket. A ran a pick gently across it and don't feel anything. Anything to be concerned about? __________________ 1930 Standard Coupe

03-03-2023, 03:55 PM	#14
DJ S Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Southwick, MA Posts: 590	Re: Strange head gasket issue Hard to say from the picture but it does not look like a crack to me. Cracks typically propagate from the exhaust seat.

03-03-2023, 05:47 PM	#15
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 3,902	Re: Strange head gasket issue Check flatness of head. One way is to to just place in on the block and see if a 0.002 feeler gauge will fit in anywhere. If it does, then the head is not flat. (Or block is not flat.) Use the Best graphite gasket with the copper spray gasket sealer. Follow the torque recommendations. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

03-03-2023, 07:21 PM	#17
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,755	Re: Strange head gasket issue I think the way Terry Burtz says to check this head and block would work good. Oiled Plastigage should be used to verify cylinder head flatness before wasting a head gasket and having to spend the time to clean the resulting mess from a failed head gasket. Place short pieces of oiled Plastigage around various locations on the cylinder block, install the head and tighten the nuts to 20 lb-ft in increments not exceeding 10 lb-ft as described in “Head Torque” below. Remove the head and measure the Plastigage. If your head is not within 0.002 inch of being flat, it will need to be resurfaced.